In fairness, I also needed my radial arm saw, drill press, and angle grinder.
Some of you may remember that I spent $240 to have an axle made for the Supremacy 45 I accidentally started to restore when I found the crankcase full of water. Lauber1 suggested I should get some access to machine tools, so when I decided to replace the axle on my Waterloo 15 (bad groove at the oil seal) I started looking around. I figured I would need a milling machine, but they look like my drill press. That got me thinking that my radial arm saw looks like a surface grinder. I have used the table saw to make dadoes in wood projects. Metal is just really hard wood, right? Both are carbon based.
So, anyway, I called around & found 1" cold rolled 1018 round rod for $4 a foot. They have a $15 minimum, and I needed 26.5 inches. Quick math & I bought 9 feet (4 sections, no waste, gotta have a spare anyway). It came as 2 pieces, each 4 1/2 feet long, so I used the radial arm saw to cut one of them into two pieces 26.5 inches long.
I made a jig out of some wood, not the best choice, but it is what I had.
I secured one piece in the jig and drilled the hole for the drive gear setscrew. I then flipped the drill guide over & locked the axle into the jig with a 1/4" bolt through a nut I had welded onto it.
From there it was off to the radial arm saw with a 3/4" fine grinding wheel. That made the flat spots on the ends of the axles where the locking bolts ride.
Then it was off to the table saw to cut the key way groove for the clicker hub key. I used two 1/8" cut off wheels to make the 1/4" key way. They left a small ridge down the centre, which I cleaned up with an end mill in my drill press. My angle grinder cleaned up the run-out portion of the keyway.
That's where the easy part ended. The keyway for the drive gear is directly below the bolt I had installed to lock the axle in place & maintain the alignment of all of the grooves & flats. To spin the axle 180* and keep the alignments spot on, I drilled a hole through the drilling guide & out the bottom of the jig. When I rotated the axle, I slipped a 1/4" pin into the hole from the bottom and into the drive gear setscrew hole. While I was turning the axle I marked the location for the drive gear keyway. Then it was back to the drill press and the end mill to make the keyway. The original axle used a woodruff key, but I went with 1/4" square stock rounded on the ends. I dimpled the lip of the set screw to keep it from loosening off.
While I had it apart, I figured I might as well make some new clicker springs for the ratchet hubs.
It is all back together and runs like new. Time will tell if the oil leak is fixed. Now I can get back to the oil leak on my Allis HB112.