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Micke's Tecumseh Hh120 Build

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#46 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted December 05, 2014 - 08:17 AM

Tahoe, YW and thank you for the input and the link to your excellent thread on Tecumseh SSI ignition conversion options.  Looks like a much more cost effective solution.  I had considered some of those options in advance due to Ed Stoller's excellent website.  I hadn't seen your conversion thread or I'd have probably gone with that.

 

I asked for the blue Bosch coil but Dale was out.  He substituted an American made coil that is less expensive and supposedly identical including epoxy potting.  It probably wasn't the best price but he seemed like a good guy so I figured 'salright.  

   

 

 

After it was all said and done, I still had about $150 in my conversion so it's still in line with Ed's, Dale's, etc.

on the next one, I plan to use Ed's instructions, dig the epoxy from the back of a burnt up module and bypass the electronics and use it only as a trigger to fire a coil through a Chrysler control box. I think I can get it done under $50-60. Remember too, mine are the last generation modules, different from yours.

 

I did find a website that had generic blue coils for like $25, was going to try one, but I dunno. My Bosch is holding up well after 3 yrs of abuse.

Does your coil have any part number? I am wondering if it can be sourced through somewhere else beside Dale?

 

I had a light squeal from an idler same as yours, shot of lube/WD40 and she quits down for a bit. Someday I will replace it,...someday :thumbs:


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#47 Canawler OFFLINE  

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Posted December 05, 2014 - 08:49 AM

I did find a website that had generic blue coils for like $25, was going to try one, but I dunno. My Bosch is holding up well after 3 yrs of abuse.
Does your coil have any part number? I am wondering if it can be sourced through somewhere else beside Dale?


The Bosch blue coils are just under $50 from Summit Racing. I used a Pertronix epoxy filled coil which was $36ish.
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#48 MountainMichael OFFLINE  

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Posted December 05, 2014 - 01:47 PM

After it was all said and done, I still had about $150 in my conversion so it's still in line with Ed's, Dale's, etc.

on the next one, I plan to use Ed's instructions, dig the epoxy from the back of a burnt up module and bypass the electronics and use it only as a trigger to fire a coil through a Chrysler control box. I think I can get it done under $50-60. Remember too, mine are the last generation modules, different from yours.

 

I did find a website that had generic blue coils for like $25, was going to try one, but I dunno. My Bosch is holding up well after 3 yrs of abuse.

Does your coil have any part number? I am wondering if it can be sourced through somewhere else beside Dale?

 

I had a light squeal from an idler same as yours, shot of lube/WD40 and she quits down for a bit. Someday I will replace it,...someday :thumbs:

 

Good to know.

 

I just went out and looked; I found no part number on the coil.  I was unable to find the box but here is what I remember about it:

 

1.)  No branding - white in color

2.)  "Made in the US"

3.)  Some PN

4.)  Made of thin shiny card stock; almost paper

 

Of course the above is of no help.  If I come across the box during garage cleaning, I'll post back. 

 

Dale refunded 15 or 20 bucks because I'd paid for the Bosch coil and he had substituted the generic US coil.  He did email in advance to make sure it was alright. 

 

I had emailed Dale with thanks for how well the system works and to answer a question he had asked.  I've not heard back from him about those 2 emails so my address may have been grabbed by his spam blocker.  If I hear back, I'll ask him for the info on that coil. 


Edited by MountainMichael, December 05, 2014 - 01:50 PM.

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#49 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted December 12, 2014 - 05:28 PM

Have you had much of a chance to run this engine and check for any leaks?
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#50 MountainMichael OFFLINE  

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Posted December 12, 2014 - 07:01 PM

I put another hour on it today as first testing after the hydro filter change (and 2nd hydro fluid change).  So far, not a drop of oil leakage visible anywhere from the engine.  I checked the dipstick and no usage visible there, either, so maybe the rings are seated?  I'm unsure how long that is expected to take on a small engine.   

 

However, at this point, the engine only has about 4 hours on it.  It is supposed to snow here on Sunday so it may or may not get a workout then depending upon how much we get.  I'm going to baby the old girl for awhile so I have a box heater out there and I'll use that a few hours to bring up the engine temp before starting when I have to run it on a snow day.   

 

With the filter change, the hydro whine is GONE!  I'll be covering that and some other details & pics over in the hydro filter thread.

 

Regarding starting:  I believe the compression is coming up because it will barely crank the engine over cold - unless I kick the clutch pedal in first - then it cranks fine.  It's still pretty much a 1st to 3rd revolution start.  During the first 2 hours, it would crank ok even while turning the hydro trans - now it cranks fine with the clutch pedal depressed.  That's fine with me; just thought I'd mention the change. 

 

Can anyone provide typical HH120 exhaust pipe temp at speed?

 

Main mixture is considerably under 1-1/2 turns - maybe minus an eighth yet it is still my impression that it is a bit rich.  Can anyone give me a typical IR temp gun HH120 exhaust pipe full running temp as another way to verify?

 

Tensioner squealing:

 

I'd mentioned earlier that I moved the belt guide finger on the flat tensioner because it was rubbing against the belt.  I also found the bolt on the clutch tensioner was too long and was rubbing badly and gouging into  the right side panel.  Fixing those two things has eliminated the tensioner squealing.  So mainly, the improvised/cheap big bearing tensioners took more care than I first gave them to get them installed trouble free.  

 

Ok, now over to the other thread to write up the hydro fill up, bleeding, top up, etc.    

 

Thanks!  

 

mm 


Edited by MountainMichael, December 12, 2014 - 10:21 PM.

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#51 MountainMichael OFFLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2015 - 04:03 PM

Snow plowing updates:

 

I let 1 big snow storm and 4 small ones build up over the last 2 weeks so the snow would've been right near impossible with my thrower.  I wondered how the tractor would do... the last time this tractor was worked was at 4500 feet elevation whereas I'm at 7150.

 

'Course memories can be convenient on things like this, but I believe the engine makes more power here than it made at 4500 feet back when it was a new crate motor.  Could be wishful thinking.  Still, I've begun calling it "the HH125".  :rolling: Seriously, I could smell the engine paint burning off the cylinder fins but that's no surprise since the paint is only rated to 400 degrees.  Gotta love the new engine smell. 

 

With the thrower (it's a 9 hp walk behind type) and doing about half my (gravel) driveways and front walk, the typical snow here takes about 3.5 hours including shoveling the porches.  Today took about an hour including some learning curve on blade angles.  And that was almost fully plowing all 3 driveways, throwing the front walk and shoveling the porches.  I guess ya' already know; most of the time was in shoveling.  The tractor really moves.  Nothing like walking speed at all. 

 

I was very glad to have the blade angle adjustable from the driver's seat. 

 

However, I still used the thrower to take out a long drift down the middle of my long-ish front walk 'cause the tractor won't fit in there due to the hand rail and all. 

 

Sorry, no video and I should've snapped a pic.  But since busting all the snow and drifts back it is melting in a hurry due to 57 (?!?) degrees today!  In January?  Really??  I'm liking the springtime temp a lot.  Ok, back out to play some more on the tractor.  Cold temps again tomorrow and maybe an inch or three of snow.   

 

Plowing sure went a LOT faster with the tractor versus the thrower.  And not one single slip or fall on the hardpack!  That's pretty important to us folk with artificial joints.

 

1 criticism:  The OEM Sears Super ribbed tires would sometimes push quite a bit when there was a decent plow load and when turning (especially when turning uphill).  

 

I'm thinking about getting some of those tractor-looking tires for the front with the 3 giant ribs...  could be eyewash.  I'll research it beforehand 'cause they're way expensive.  

 

The back tires with chains and iron weights really dig in nicely for forward or reverse.

 

I shouldn't say it for Murphy reasons, but still no oil leaks at all. 

 

Ok, back out to play some more on the tractor.  There's gotta be something I can plow.  :D

 

Some cooling to 30's predicted for tomorrow and maybe an inch or three of snow.  Aw, come on.  The tractor needs more than that...    


Edited by MountainMichael, January 06, 2015 - 04:07 PM.

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#52 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2015 - 06:14 PM

Snow plowing updates:

I'm thinking about getting some of those tractor-looking tires for the front with the 3 giant ribs... could be eyewash. I'll research it beforehand 'cause they're way expensive.

This is where I've gotten mine a couple of times.
http://www.greatercl...b-d401-2-tires/

Please note, that's 39.50 for the pair. Plus shipping, of course.

Glad to hear you are happy with the sears. Enjoy the snow :D
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#53 MountainMichael OFFLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2015 - 06:34 PM

Stock front tire size on my super is 6.50-8.  The widest I'm seeing there is 4.00-8... I'm guessin' that's too far off. 

 

I can find tri-rib tires in 6.50-8 in fleabay but they're $70 a tire.  Ouch.  Might have to find some 'burb wheels for the front so I can get affordable tires, no?

 

edit:  I found some 3.75-8 wheels in ebay new for $60 a pair + 21 shipping.  They come with 3/4" ID ball bearings and 3" wide hubs.  I'm guessing I'd probably have to find some spacers for hub width versus spindle width but no big deal there.  With the 4.00-8 tri-ribs MH81 kindly linked, it'd save about $20 over the 6.50-8 tires this time around (even with the wheel cost) but a whole lot more next time.  And ball bearings would be good.  Here's a link for the wheels in case it's of any use to anyone:

 

http://www.ebay.com/...=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

Prob'ly order 2 pair of the tires while they're cheap. 

 

Sounds like a plan.

 

 

2nd edit:  For my area, Cleveland Tire wants $56 shipping for 1 pair of tires and 2 tubes.  Wow.  Ok, plan B.


Edited by MountainMichael, January 08, 2015 - 01:00 PM.

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#54 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2015 - 07:47 AM

The narrow rims are definitely the way to go. They look much more tractor like IMHO.
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#55 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2015 - 08:19 AM

If the tractor never gets any heavy front attachments other than maybe a snow blade, standard wheel barrow rims can be used as narrow rims, seen lots of guys put their tri-ribs on them on a Sears.They seem a little light to me, but they work fine on a wheel barrow that carries what, 200-300# and that's just a single. Put doubles on the front of a tractor and they work well.


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