Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

Thinking Of Putting Some Heat In The Cab.


  • Please log in to reply
25 replies to this topic

#16 Auburn David OFFLINE  

Auburn David
  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 61865
  • 2,754 Thanks
  • 1,962 posts
  • Location: Alabama

Posted November 10, 2014 - 07:49 PM

Pulled a whole family out of the woods in a van that someone decided the heat with the engine heat..they all died..


  • boyscout862 said thank you

#17 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

IamSherwood

    Elf guardian

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2066
  • 8,379 Thanks
  • 7,696 posts
  • Location: Northern Ontario

Posted November 10, 2014 - 08:13 PM

Will, if you welded the pipes to the muffler you could end up overheating the fluid. You would also need some kind of pressure relief in the system. Is there any way you can drive a larger alternator off the motor? If so, I'd mount a big car alternator and run a 12v DC heater in the cab. No exhaust fumes to worry about and no AF pumps etc. With the stock alternator you wouldn't have the power to do that for any length of time without killing the battery. 

 

Brian, that thought had occurred to me, and I was planning on a relief valve. Forgot to mention that. There

really isn't an easy way to mount and drive a large alternator, with out butchering up the machine.

 

Just be careful...Carbon Monoxide will kill you is there is an exhaust leak.

 

Yes, absolutely, thanks. That's why I was looking at this option. The exhaust is tight, but if do go with the hot air

and blower option, I'd also be looking for a C Monoxide detector.

 

Take a 12 volt fuel pump, suck the hot oil out of the bottom of the engine crankcase run it thru the coil that you have, run a return line back to the engine block.

If you want to upgrade this put a filter inline so when you turn the heater on it also cleans up the oil.

 

That's an interesting idea. One could also have a bypass in the pickup/return line, and install a

110v inline block heater.


  • Arti said thank you

#18 DH1 ONLINE  

DH1

    Electric Tractors

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 62
  • 4,587 Thanks
  • 5,295 posts
  • Location: Markham Ontario Canada

Posted November 10, 2014 - 08:29 PM

I know it's $$$ but what about a small diesel fueled truck cab heater. ???



#19 Enginerod OFFLINE  

Enginerod

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 1748
  • 205 Thanks
  • 268 posts
  • Location: WNY

Posted November 10, 2014 - 08:52 PM

Look into the catalytic golf cart heaters, they run on 1 pound canisters and put out a bunch of heat. They come with a plastic base for the 1 pound cylinder that fits in a cup holder.


  • Alc, Bruce Dorsi and IamSherwood have said thanks

#20 JDBrian OFFLINE  

JDBrian

    Super Moderator

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2507
  • 9,574 Thanks
  • 14,136 posts
  • Location: Hubley, Nova Scotia - Canada

Posted November 11, 2014 - 07:05 AM

Look into the catalytic golf cart heaters, they run on 1 pound canisters and put out a bunch of heat. They come with a plastic base for the 1 pound cylinder that fits in a cup holder.

 

Are those propane powered? If so, burning propane produces a lot of moisture and might cause more condensation in the cab. 



#21 Enginerod OFFLINE  

Enginerod

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 1748
  • 205 Thanks
  • 268 posts
  • Location: WNY

Posted November 11, 2014 - 09:22 AM

Anytime you introduce heat into a cold space you will have moisture, you would also have to have a small fan of some sort to keep air circulated.



#22 Jehtro OFFLINE  

Jehtro

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 3300
  • 109 Thanks
  • 276 posts
  • Location: St. Marys, Ontario, Canada

Posted November 12, 2014 - 08:44 AM

I always ran the the blower on cold in the 4430 when bowing the lane out at the farm, heat the cab and the snow would stick to the glass, discovered that trick when I couldn't see and feed the canoe through the blower, when I had a cab on my jd185 I took the rear window out cause it would fog up with out the air circulation. Just a thought.
  • IamSherwood and Cvans have said thanks

#23 David Brown OFFLINE  

David Brown

    I said I work on them. I never said I fix them!

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 8570
  • 4,219 Thanks
  • 2,316 posts

Posted November 12, 2014 - 10:07 AM

You would be surprised at just how warm you get when you cut out the wind factor.


  • IamSherwood and PGHsteelworker have said thanks

#24 Bruce Dorsi ONLINE  

Bruce Dorsi

    Old, but not dead -- yet!

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1525
  • 3,180 Thanks
  • 2,149 posts
  • Location: New Jersey

Posted November 12, 2014 - 10:16 AM

Will:

 

Are you looking to warm your entire body, body parts, or the air in the cab?

 

I have a small skid loader which I use for snow removal.  ....I have enclosed the cab with sheets of Lexan to block the wind, and keep the snow out.  ....As others have said, you need ventilation to keep from fogging up the cab and to introduce some fresh air.  .....I have 1" gaps at the tops of the side and rear panels to allow some air circulation.

 

Wearing warm clothes keeps my body core warm, but my hands and feet get cold because they are always in the same position.  .....Those small warmers that fit into gloves keep my hands warm.    .....The warmers that fit into my boots get too hot initially, and then lose the heat, allowing my feet to get too cold.

 

Heating the air in the cab is one way to stay warm, but any drafts are going to lose the heat quickly.   ....Another option is a 12volt heat pad to sit on. 

 

For my needs, I am going to try a 12vdc, 15w, 2A, waterproof, 11"x22", Dog crate warmer.  .....It will heat up to 105-110*F, and I plan on putting it on the floorboard under my feet.  ....It retails for approx. $60 US.  .....The amp draw will be negligible, even when added to the 3 work lights installed.    


  • Alc, IamSherwood and PGHsteelworker have said thanks

#25 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

IamSherwood

    Elf guardian

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2066
  • 8,379 Thanks
  • 7,696 posts
  • Location: Northern Ontario

Posted November 12, 2014 - 06:40 PM

We're getting hammered with snow here now, and until tomorrow night.

I'm going to try it without heat tomorrow. I'll see how it works for me before

I get into a another project.

 

Bruce, the reason I've been thinking about this is to just keep the windows clear.


  • Bruce Dorsi said thank you

#26 Cvans ONLINE  

Cvans

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 5412
  • 4,522 Thanks
  • 5,033 posts
  • Location: Eastern SD.

Posted November 12, 2014 - 10:46 PM

I'm blowing snow with a diesel Kubota and cab. Chose not to use heat because of the fogging windows and snow melting and sticking to the windshield. The only part of me that gets cold is my feet if I don't wear my bunny boots. Just being out of the wind and snow makes a huge difference in comfort and no fogging is experienced because the cooling fan draws air through the cab. Just my choice and likely someday I will change my mind. 

IMG_0524.JPG


Edited by Cvans, November 12, 2014 - 10:50 PM.

  • IamSherwood and PGHsteelworker have said thanks




Top