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Thinking Of Putting Some Heat In The Cab.


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#1 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted November 10, 2014 - 07:17 AM

I'm kicking around the idea of getting a bit of heat going in the cab.

 

Is it a good or bad idea?

 

Here is the GT I'm working on.

 

http://gardentractor...ndstrand-issue/

 

Will this work?

 

I found this heat exchanger at the dump. The plastic fins are easily straightened.

And it was free.

 

DSCF2442.JPG

 

I could bolt it to the ceiling, and put a small 12v fan behind it to blow air through it

at the front window. To heat the anti-freeze flowing through it, I could weld small steel pipe

to the exhaust (yellow lines) and plumb it together with small rubber hose.

 

DSCF2435-2.jpg

 

I would need a small inline 12v pump for circulation.

 

Will this work? and is it worth the effort?

 

 

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#2 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted November 10, 2014 - 07:30 AM

Why not route the exhaust around inside the cab in a loop then out the back? Just have to watch out for the hot pipe! :smilewink:


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#3 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted November 10, 2014 - 07:34 AM

Bacon and eggs in the cab?



#4 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted November 10, 2014 - 07:43 AM

Will the piping at the exhaust be outside and on top of it?  What I am wondering is if a small hydraulic type heat exchanger could be mounted there and you would have the exhaust heat plus the engine heat blowing across it? Might get pretty toasty that way!


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#5 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted November 10, 2014 - 08:22 AM

Will, if you welded the pipes to the muffler you could end up overheating the fluid. You would also need some kind of pressure relief in the system. Is there any way you can drive a larger alternator off the motor? If so, I'd mount a big car alternator and run a 12v DC heater in the cab. No exhaust fumes to worry about and no AF pumps etc. With the stock alternator you wouldn't have the power to do that for any length of time without killing the battery. 


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#6 Gtractor ONLINE  

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Posted November 10, 2014 - 08:29 AM

I agree with Brian above.  I think the fluid would cook.  A box built around the manifold to capture heat and just blow the heated air into the cab would be easier/cheaper and possibly work better. 

 

 

A liquid cooled diesel conversion would already have the circulating antifreeze......  :wave:  :smilewink:


Edited by Gtractor, November 10, 2014 - 08:36 AM.

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#7 massey driver ONLINE  

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Posted November 10, 2014 - 08:59 AM

This was how I got heat into the cab on my MF 1655 . The hose at the front of the motor was drawing the warm air that was been blown threw the cooling fins of the engine block. It was warm enough in the cab that snow on my boots etc; would melt,didn't need to have to wear gloves either. I didn't have to worry about exhaust fumes,because I had a stack on for the winter.

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#8 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted November 10, 2014 - 09:04 AM

I'm putting a cab on my Ford 2000 this year. I plan to use one of those $10 electric defrosters from HF to keep the windshield clear on the inside. A coolant powered heater would be nice but, that would cost $250+. You are probably best off taking hot air off the engine and ducting that into the cab. I may try that with a Simplicity 3310 that I have. Good Luck, Rick
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#9 David Brown OFFLINE  

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Posted November 10, 2014 - 10:32 AM

I've only ever had a cab on one tractor and I didn't need to pipe any heat in.  By the time I was half done plowing, I had to open the door every once in a while to cool off.  The tractor was a diesel so there wasn't a whole lot of heat coming off of the engine like there would be on a gas engine but it was enough to keep things toasty.  I finally got rid of the cab because it was too warm.  Wish now I had kept it after going thru last winter.  I think you might find you don't need to go thru the hassle.


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#10 Auburn David OFFLINE  

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Posted November 10, 2014 - 11:00 AM

Just be careful...Carbon Monoxide will kill you if there is an exhaust leak.


Edited by Auburn, November 10, 2014 - 07:43 PM.

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#11 petrj6 ONLINE  

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Posted November 10, 2014 - 04:56 PM

   I agree with all  I have read so far,  good friend of mine has a cab on his duetz and he just put shrouds over the sides of the engine bay and hooked it the the cab, enough heat in there that he leaves the windows out unless the wind is blowing real hard.  Good luck

                                                                                                                                                          Pete


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#12 Leonard VanCamp OFFLINE  

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Posted November 10, 2014 - 05:04 PM

I've been pondering a idea like Sherwoods, but instead of using antifreeze in a closed loop I'm thinking on tapping into my tractor's (John Deere 316K) hydraulic system and using the circulating hydro fluid for a source of heat. 


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#13 Arti ONLINE  

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Posted November 10, 2014 - 06:39 PM

Take a 12 volt fuel pump, suck the hot oil out of the bottom of the engine crankcase run it thru the coil that you have, run a return line back to the engine block.

If you want to upgrade this put a filter inline so when you turn the heater on it also cleans up the oil.


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#14 Freddie1911 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 10, 2014 - 06:55 PM

Been trolling on here for a while, have discovered a lot of people on here that I would like to meet face to face, All seems like great guys. If the plumbing is done right the water should percolate, no pumps only a small 12 volt fan. Radio shack has these fans for a little of nothing. Remember heat rises, so will the hot water Now Auburn lighten up man they got plows. Freddie
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#15 Auburn David OFFLINE  

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Posted November 10, 2014 - 07:46 PM

Been trolling on here for a while, have discovered a lot of people on here that I would like to meet face to face, All seems like great guys. If the plumbing is done right the water should percolate, no pumps only a small 12 volt fan. Radio shack has these fans for a little of nothing. Remember heat rises, so will the hot water Now Auburn lighten up man they got plows. Freddie

I am a retired Fireman,and never seen a cab on a GT..or a snow blower...cut me some slack..I worry .






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