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Balance A Snow Thrower Augur


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#1 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted November 09, 2014 - 01:22 PM

The blower I got with my 1053 has a heavy vibration at high speeds.  Both flats that throw the snow have been welded on and a backing plate welded on both.  Just from look I can tell that one has to be heavier than the other due to the amount of weld.  What is a good way to balance the augur again?  Thanks in advance for any advise you guys can provide. :thumbs:


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#2 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted November 09, 2014 - 03:27 PM

Only thing I can say is make them symmetrical if you think thats the problem.

How about the bearings and drive shaft? Did you check those?


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#3 LilysDad ONLINE  

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Posted November 09, 2014 - 03:39 PM

I don't think an auger turns fast enough to be out of balance.


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#4 ol' stonebreaker ONLINE  

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Posted November 09, 2014 - 04:28 PM

  I'll assume you have a thrower rather than a blower. My advice would be to cut the plates off, grind the flats smooth. Then run the auger at full speed to see if the vibration is gone. If it isn't then I'd guess the auger is bent. Then cut out two new plates the same thickness and same dimensions. This should make them the same weight, clamp them on the flats the exact same distance from the auger longitudinal center and weld in place.

                                   HTH,

                                           Mike


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#5 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted November 09, 2014 - 05:54 PM

:iagree:


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#6 MyBolens1053 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 09, 2014 - 05:54 PM

I am thinking of what you are doing and seems I will be doing the same thing soon. So, my idea is to get 2 pillow block bearings to match the shaft size of the auger and mount them on 2 saw horse style setups. Then start a slow spin and see where it stops. The bottom should be the heavy point so the top should be marked and weight added. Repeating until it comes to a smooth stop each time.


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#7 trowel OFFLINE  

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Posted November 09, 2014 - 05:59 PM

I am thinking of what you are doing and seems I will be doing the same thing soon. So, my idea is to get 2 pillow block bearings to match the shaft size of the auger and mount them on 2 saw horse style setups. Then start a slow spin and see where it stops. The bottom should be the heavy point so the top should be marked and weight added. Repeating until it comes to a smooth stop each time.

Just as i was about to post.


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#8 Cat385B ONLINE  

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Posted November 09, 2014 - 06:25 PM

My auger had indents centered on each end of the shaft. I ran screws through saw horses into those indents, and then clamped the sawhorses together to hold it in place.


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#9 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted November 09, 2014 - 06:51 PM

I don't think an auger turns fast enough to be out of balance.

 

If the augur don't turn fast enough to be out of balance then nothing in the power lines turn fast enough either?



#10 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted November 09, 2014 - 06:54 PM

Only thing I can say is make them symmetrical if you think thats the problem.

How about the bearings and drive shaft? Did you check those?

The bearing are all tight and didn't notice any wobble in the drive shaft.  The shaft slides together snug like it is supposed to.  Thanks for the suggestion.


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#11 MyBolens1053 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 09, 2014 - 07:10 PM

Let's say we go with the output RPM's of the motor at 3600, full throttle. The PTO pulley is close to the same size (for sake of argument) and the front universal will turn the same to the gear box. The gearbox on the thrower should be a 5:4 reduction (80% output) to give about 2880 RPM's to the drive sprocket gear of 13 teeth. If the auger has 39 teeth that would give a 1:3 ratio or 1/3 output. That would give 950 RPM's to the auger. I have heard they turn more than 1000 RPM's for the single stage throwers.


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#12 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted November 09, 2014 - 07:49 PM

I am thinking of what you are doing and seems I will be doing the same thing soon. So, my idea is to get 2 pillow block bearings to match the shaft size of the auger and mount them on 2 saw horse style setups. Then start a slow spin and see where it stops. The bottom should be the heavy point so the top should be marked and weight added. Repeating until it comes to a smooth stop each time.

 

I am toying with using two angle irons, leveled on saw horses and rolling the augur on the edge of the angles.  Be less resistance than the pillow blocks.  It may just be a bent augur too.  I really need to get into it and see what it is first I guess.  At least I have some ideas on how to proceed.


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#13 LilysDad ONLINE  

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Posted November 09, 2014 - 08:04 PM

"Let's say we go with the output RPM's of the motor at 3600, full throttle. The PTO pulley is close to the same size (for sake of argument) and the front universal will turn the same to the gear box. The gearbox on the thrower should be a 5:4 reduction (80% output) to give about 2880 RPM's to the drive sprocket gear of 13 teeth. If the auger has 39 teeth that would give a 1:3 ratio or 1/3 output. That would give 950 RPM's to the auger. I have heard they turn more than 1000 RPM's for the single stage throwers."

 

MB1053 said it way better than me. The Snow blower/throwers I've seen were made fairly crudely. Parts punched out on a press, blob welded together; they certainly couldn't be expected to run at high RPMs. Using his numbers, the impeller is running at approx. 1/3rd the speed of the engine. I'm looking forward to learning how out of whack chieffans' machine is.


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#14 Cat385B ONLINE  

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Posted November 09, 2014 - 08:13 PM

Let's say we go with the output RPM's of the motor at 3600, full throttle. The PTO pulley is close to the same size (for sake of argument) and the front universal will turn the same to the gear box. The gearbox on the thrower should be a 5:4 reduction (80% output) to give about 2880 RPM's to the drive sprocket gear of 13 teeth. If the auger has 39 teeth that would give a 1:3 ratio or 1/3 output. That would give 950 RPM's to the auger. I have heard they turn more than 1000 RPM's for the single stage throwers.

 

That is about what I had figured on my Bolens G152 with the 1330 single stage blower, about 1,000 rpms with the engine at full throttle. (which is 2800 rpm on my two cylinder diesel) My gearbox is a 4:3 reduction. (75%)

 

The reason I bothered is I increased the auger speed by almost 25%. It really throws snow, but sucks power like mad, and I can't turn it off fast enough to prevent damage if the shear bolt doesn't go.


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#15 framesteer OFFLINE  

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Posted November 09, 2014 - 11:56 PM

Static balancing works on turning parts that are short (like a dinner plate).  If the part is a long cylinder (like the snow thrower auger), the static balance will not help much.  Long cylinders need to be dynamically balanced to remove the twisting motion at each bearing.


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