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I Went & Done It --- Jd 40S!


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#31 1978murray OFFLINE  

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Posted November 19, 2014 - 02:29 PM

make sure you know if the motor has ever been open.  Because if it has never been cleaned and had non detergent oil in it, you do not want to put detergent oil in it.  Because it breaks down the sludge and clogs oil passages


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#32 grnspot110 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 19, 2014 - 05:00 PM

make sure you know if the motor has ever been open.  Because if it has never been cleaned and had non detergent oil in it, you do not want to put detergent oil in it.  Because it breaks down the sludge and clogs oil passages

Is non detergent oil even available anymore?  I've never used it in anything!  I can see that the head has been off at least.



#33 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted November 19, 2014 - 06:17 PM

Why not put a winch to lift the blade?  Those are getting cheaper for bigger ones at HF tools and others now days. that is how 4-wheelers and other tractors I've seen have done the lifting. If you make hardware for leverage first, it makes it even easier on the winch then. Could maybe even get a remote one and not have to wire much to make it work??  I'm thinking this blade might be a little small and light for the tractor, but you will find out once mounted and used for sure. Good Luck, I'll be watching the thread.



#34 grnspot110 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 19, 2014 - 06:26 PM

Why not put a winch to lift the blade?  Those are getting cheaper for bigger ones at HF tools and others now days. that is how 4-wheelers and other tractors I've seen have done the lifting. If you make hardware for leverage first, it makes it even easier on the winch then. Could maybe even get a remote one and not have to wire much to make it work??  I'm thinking this blade might be a little small and light for the tractor, but you will find out once mounted and used for sure. Good Luck, I'll be watching the thread.

6 volt system.

 

This is the 5' JD #32 blade made for the model "M", basically the same tractor, just a model older:  M blade 1.jpg



#35 grnspot110 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 22, 2014 - 08:01 PM

I've been working on the blade mounting bracket the last couple of days:  HPIM1394.JPG  HPIM1396.JPG  HPIM1397.JPG  HPIM1398.JPG  HPIM1400.JPG

 

I still have to paint it & finish the cable lift set-up, then, it's on to the weight bracket!


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#36 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted November 23, 2014 - 12:36 AM

Nice job on the mounts.  :thumbs:


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#37 1978murray OFFLINE  

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Posted November 24, 2014 - 07:02 PM

Is non detergent oil even available anymore?  I've never used it in anything!  I can see that the head has been off at least.

 

 

I have found it at tractor supply and my local hardware store.  It is getting harder to come by but its still out there. Wal-Mart sometimes even has it



#38 grnspot110 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 24, 2014 - 07:44 PM

It's got Quaker State 10-30 in it now!



#39 js5020 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 01, 2014 - 06:14 PM

Nice looking machine!  Let us know how well it works this winter.


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#40 grnspot110 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 01, 2014 - 07:43 PM

Guess I didn't get pics posted of the finished project!  The cable lift works off the 3-pt:  HPIM1402.JPG  It lifts the blade about 12" off the ground:  HPIM1401.JPG

 

I made the convex skids from a pair of old disk shaft end caps, welding a 1" piece of 1" bar stock into the hole in them:  HPIM1404.JPG    HPIM1405.JPG

 

Tried it a bit on the 1/2" snow we had a few days ago, works fine so far!  

 

Now, I need to make a weight bracket for the rear, I have 2-100# & 4-42# suitcase weights to use on it.


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#41 grnspot110 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 18, 2014 - 05:22 PM

We ended up with 3" of the nasty white stuff, so I put the little 40 to work this morning.  HPIM1432.JPG   HPIM1435.JPG   HPIM1431.JPG


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#42 grnspot110 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 22, 2014 - 06:18 PM

Started working on the 3-pt plow for the little 40.  I have one 14" bottom from a model 810 plow I used to have for a 1958-520.  HPIM1430.JPG

 

Yesterday, I cut out most of the parts for the 3-pt "A" frame, today I drilled the bolt holes:  HPIM1446.JPG  I use 3/16" pilot holes, then bits up to 1/2".  For bigger holes, bi-metal hole saws, still have one 5/8' to cut in the plow frame.  There will be a 5/8 x 2-1/2" to weld the top link uprights to, then it will be clamped to the 2-1/2" lower cross beam.  Some braces will be used when I find the size needed.

 

I'm using pictures of a Frontier one-bottom as a pattern:   HPIM1447.JPG


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#43 grnspot110 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 24, 2014 - 08:21 AM

Welded up the "A" frame parts yesterday:  HPIM1449.JPG   HPIM1450.JPG


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#44 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted December 24, 2014 - 08:30 AM

Good looking A-Frame! Glad you found a way to make this plow work on your 40S! It would be fun watching you plow with this!


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#45 grnspot110 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 04, 2015 - 05:36 PM

Finally got back into the shop, cleaned some plow parts yesterday & painted them today.  HPIM1453.JPG  HPIM1452.JPG

 

Still need to get some new bolts for it.






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