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Sand Blasting Media (Help)


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#1 Kmac1 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 06, 2014 - 12:25 AM

Finished my restoration dolly enough so that I could move my Snapper 1855A onto it. and it will stay on the dolly now until I drive it off when done. It is 9 ft long and 60 inches wide. Has 2 floating cross members so that I can adjust for wheelbase differences. I will get some photos of it tomorrow morning and post them with a better descrption. After I got it on the dolly I decided to finish sandblasting the frame. I have tried several different size and types of media all of which came from my rig where I work. I have tried ground up fine walnut hull. (too course too big.) Fine glass beads alos to big, Soda ash worked pretty well but once you open the bag if you don't put it in air tight container it will draw moisture and becomes rock solid. Today all I had was 2 5 gallon buckets of very very fine frac sand. This so far has done the best job removing paint and rust with one pass. Finally the question. What do y'all use when blasing something big like the frame and what do you use in the cabinet for small parts. ON sheet metal?? Thanks Willie
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#2 TUDOR OFFLINE  

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Posted November 06, 2014 - 03:13 AM

For the frame, I'd take it to a machine shop or foundry and have them put it in their Wheelabrator. It'll take about an hour for the steel shot to remove all the paint and rust.

 

Talk nice to them and you can maybe get the wheels done at the same time for the same price. It cost me $12 per wheel the last time I had 8 wheels done. It took about 45 minutes.


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#3 petrj6 ONLINE  

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Posted November 06, 2014 - 05:47 AM

   Star blast !!!!  I work at a steel fab shop that has large air blasters and they use lots of different type's of media.  star blast works the best all around, nice fine grit for a good finish and it takes scale of fairly well.  it is still a bit heavier than glass bead thou so it may not work in your blaster.

                                                                                                                                                                                                       Pete


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#4 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted November 06, 2014 - 08:18 AM

I use the black slag for blasting. Nice and aggressive. It leaves a bit of a rough finish

on the tin, which I just rub over quickly with 120 grit, and then use high build primer.


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#5 GTTinkerer OFFLINE  

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Posted November 06, 2014 - 08:43 AM

I built a sand blast cabinet out of OSB a few years ago and had many problems with the nozzle getting plugged up with the chips from the OSB.  I used a fine sand media in it.  Got tired of having to unplug the nozzle way too often and set the cabinet out along side the road after pulling the gloves and gun off it, next morning it was gone.  A couple of weeks ago I bought one of the Harbor Freight sand blast cabinets and still haven't had the time to put it together yet and will be using 80 grit aluminum oxide in it and plan to do as Will does to smooth out the finish.  If the 80 grit is too course I will go to 100 or 120.

 

The reason for changing from sand to aluminum oxide is mainly due to reading up on the silicosis issues from breathing in the dust from the sand (the wife says I am too mean to die early but why take chances);. plus the aluminum oxide can be re-used several times.

 

I will still take the parts that are too large for the cabinet up to the Steel Tank plant to have them sand blasted, $90 an hour but they can do an entire GT frame in about 15 minutes.


Edited by GTTinkerer, November 06, 2014 - 08:45 AM.

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#6 Username OFFLINE  

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Posted November 06, 2014 - 10:38 AM

I built a sand blast cabinet out of OSB a few years ago and had many problems with the nozzle getting plugged up with the chips from the OSB.  I used a fine sand media in it.  Got tired of having to unplug the nozzle way too often and set the cabinet out along side the road after pulling the gloves and gun off it, next morning it was gone.  A couple of weeks ago I bought one of the Harbor Freight sand blast cabinets and still haven't had the time to put it together yet and will be using 80 grit aluminum oxide in it and plan to do as Will does to smooth out the finish.  If the 80 grit is too course I will go to 100 or 120.

 

The reason for changing from sand to aluminum oxide is mainly due to reading up on the silicosis issues from breathing in the dust from the sand (the wife says I am too mean to die early but why take chances);. plus the aluminum oxide can be re-used several times.

 

I will still take the parts that are too large for the cabinet up to the Steel Tank plant to have them sand blasted, $90 an hour but they can do an entire GT frame in about 15 minutes.

 

When you put that cabinet together,use some type of seam sealer on every seam or you will have sand blowing out of every crack.


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#7 ckjakline OFFLINE  

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Posted November 06, 2014 - 05:19 PM

We use the 00 sandblasting sand,but I found most of my stuff I can get it done by someone else for less than the sand cost me.So I started doing that instead.I thought I was saving money by doing it my self but I wasn't.


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#8 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted November 06, 2014 - 06:36 PM

Black slag takes off fast, but kinda rough like noted. Silica sand does good but gets dusty quick. Most of the Medias turn to dist too quick and is constant changing it all out again. Blasting wears stuff out and always rebuilding things on cabinet. Window material needs changing all the time, plugging up of gun and tips lots of times. Needing to sift the sand after a few projects to get out the stuff you blasted off or just clogs. More rare, new gloves needed as they blast thru after awhile. Can by just ONE at TP tools when it wears out if you wish. Even the pick-up tube can wear thru after awhile and not syphon anymore. Gun parts that hold the tips. I use the hardened metal tips and last long time, others last Short time. I have Harbor "Frt one just bought AND, it Does leak out all over as noted. My other reg cab is made from plywood and has metal lining, which was really needed to save the wood. That one is caulked up inside, but still get dusty stuff from many cracks and seems anyway. Finding places to blast is hard now days with EPA requiring so much safety procedures, it got costly to do and buy equipment. I found a place that now puts most things in oven to bake off the paints and such, then does quick blast off of that residue. Works real nice!  OH, and nothing was said about having big enough compressor for job, we won't get into that here now!


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#9 TUDOR OFFLINE  

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Posted November 06, 2014 - 06:55 PM

My blast cabinet is a piece of plywood with a window in it that sits on a pair of saw horses.I have vapour barrier plastic stapled to it and draped to the floor of the shop, The shop vac is running while I'm blasting and then I use it to suck up the sand afterwards. The dust stays on the vac's filter and the sand gets poured back into the hopper through a screen.


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#10 Kmac1 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 06, 2014 - 09:25 PM

Sandblasting outside is a dirty nasty job, so I think I have the frame of the 1855A cleaned up and almost paint and rust free now.  I need to get the primer on it before Tuesday cause I go back to work and will be gone two weeks.  The fender section is done, and anything i can get to with my DA i will sand it lightly and paint, like the side panels and the hood etc.  I will do the deck with the sand blaster top and bottom.  It all just takes time.  The last car i did took 7 years.  Willie



#11 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted November 06, 2014 - 11:17 PM

I spread a large tarp on the ground under what I'm blasting. When finished I pour the sand back into the media container for the next use. No problems so far. 


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#12 Kmac1 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 07, 2014 - 06:50 PM

yes thats what i did as well, swept it up and put it back in my container. Well except what was in my hair, my ears and everywhere else it could get. You definitely need a face shield when you're sand blasting.
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#13 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted November 07, 2014 - 09:15 PM

Sand blasting hoods are not expensive and a good investment.  


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#14 Kmac1 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 10, 2014 - 08:45 PM

I will be looking into getting a hood before I start another big project. I'm sure it would be worth the cost. Thanks. Willie

#15 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted November 10, 2014 - 09:33 PM

I do the same as Cvans. I would suggest a hood also vs a face shield. I have a small HF cabinet I got real cheap on CL. I still prefer blasting outside on the tarp.
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