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216 May Have Dropped A Valve Or Something?


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#1 rippinryno OFFLINE  

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Posted November 03, 2014 - 03:16 PM

Well i was mowing the last time this year then planning to get the snowblower on.  Wouldn't you know it right as i was shutting the blades off the mower decided to putter out after it chugged for 2 seconds then gave me a bit of a tick noise.  Almost a knock.  Now when I turn it over i can hear that slight knock but it seems to crank fine, still has compression just won't fire.  Is this a crank issue, timing, valve, or what do you guys think?  I had oil and it was running just fine before this.  I've got a parts machine in the shed and I'd like to make one of the motors run again if at all possible.  Where should i start and what do you guys think i'll find when i open it up?>


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#2 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted November 03, 2014 - 03:19 PM

Check and see if you have spark first, then pull the head and see if the valves are opening and closing a they should. Also check to make sure that the fuel pump is pumping fuel to the carb..


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#3 rippinryno OFFLINE  

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Posted November 03, 2014 - 03:24 PM

I've check all the essentials, it's sparking, getting fuel, and cranking, like i said got a little knock type of noise and i heard it briefly as it started to die.  I'm convinced it did not die due to fuel issue or losing spark since this noise came about.  I'll pull the head and check the valves, wonder if a spring broke or something bent?  the noise almost sounds like a valve hitting something. 



#4 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted November 03, 2014 - 03:33 PM

Check the valves by pulling the head and then the breather cover under the Carb.. You can also check to see if the rod is loose by rolling the crank back and forth when you get the head of, just don't check it at top dead center.


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#5 dthomp17 ONLINE  

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Posted November 03, 2014 - 08:25 PM

If the valves and all check out, see if the flywheel/crankshaft key has been sheared.  Not likely but it's still something else you can check.  Don't think it would make any type of "tick" noise with a sheared flywheel key though.



#6 gonafixit OFFLINE  

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Posted November 09, 2014 - 01:20 PM

sounds like time to push it down to the curb and buy an ingersoll!


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#7 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted November 09, 2014 - 02:02 PM

sounds like time to push it down to the curb and buy an ingersoll!

 

Powered by the same Kohler?!?!


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#8 1031d OFFLINE  

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Posted November 09, 2014 - 02:13 PM

Powered by the same Kohler?!?!

Some are but the CASE/Ingersoll Kohlers are specific to the CCI models as they have very shallow oil pans and stubby cranks.  I've converted engines over to fit in a CCI but most won't swap out.  I think Pete up there is just being his normal rude self!



#9 1031d OFFLINE  

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Posted November 09, 2014 - 02:35 PM

  Here's my 2 cents.  If you dropped a valve you would have poor or no compression.  The only thing I HATE about these newer iron Kohlers is that stupid balance gear, they like to seize the bearings and break off then usually causing your engine to grenade.  I would start first by removing the tappet cover and double check that the valve train looks okay, both valve springs are still in one piece, and everything freely moves.  The engines are also equipped with a centrifugally actuated compression release so to accurately check compression you will need to turn the engine backwards.  I have seen these compression release mechanisms wear out/break and cause symptoms like you describe.  If this still doesn't help then I would pull the engine, lay it over and knock the oil pan off and look inside, one of the nice things about these engines, you can open them up without disturbing anything major.  You have something funny going on here but a rod knock will not usually keep an engine from running.


Edited by Cat385B, November 09, 2014 - 03:55 PM.


#10 rippinryno OFFLINE  

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Posted November 15, 2014 - 11:30 AM

OK so the left valve looking through the window has a large gap between the lower rod from cam and the bottom of the valve.

#11 rippinryno OFFLINE  

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Posted November 15, 2014 - 12:11 PM

IMG_20141115_102612_220_zpsa124208e.jpg

 

IMG_20141115_102633_277_zpsa4a84b03.jpg



#12 lyall ONLINE  

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Posted November 15, 2014 - 10:44 PM

valve gap.png

 

hope this help

with that gap you will have a ticking noise



#13 rippinryno OFFLINE  

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Posted November 16, 2014 - 08:11 AM

It only had a tick right before it died, and when i turn it over....now it won't run at all. Do u think the valve bent or what would cause it to have so much clearance all the sudden and just die? How do these get adjusted?  on my atv's there's either shims that can be added or they have an adjustment screw.  can these be adjusted or should i pull the head and see if the valve is bent up top?


Edited by rippinryno, November 16, 2014 - 08:14 AM.


#14 1031d OFFLINE  

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Posted November 16, 2014 - 09:11 AM

You screw that bolt in or out to adjust them. If you turn it over some does the other valve have a similar gap? If not I'd pull the head and do an inspection along with a decarbon, usually to bend a valve it has to hit something.

#15 rippinryno OFFLINE  

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Posted November 17, 2014 - 12:51 AM

the other valves does not have nearly the same size gap.  I'll try to adjust and see if i can close up that clearance a little.  i have feeler guages so i'll see if i can get it within spec.  i assume i measure the gap when it opens the largest?






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