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Hydraulic Problem


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#1 middleageddeere OFFLINE  

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Posted February 21, 2011 - 11:45 AM

I put this in this forum because I am feeling like it could be a universal issue instead of just a JD specific one. First I have a 317 with a 49 snowblower and a sleeve hitch with a back blade. I have found two problems, One- the back blade goes up very slowly if I have it weighted down. I think it should be able to handle the weight I have on it with no problem. I think I have about 70# on it. Two- While I am snowblowing the back blade will slowly descend, I have to raise it up on a regular basis.

Two notes-The hydraulic system does have a small leak, after sitting overnight it will have about 6 or 7 drops under it. And the other day I thought it needed fluid so I filled it up and when I started it the fluid came out in a steady stream for a while. I am guessing I overfilled it and it has an overflow...anyone know if that is right?

Lastly, while I am on the topic, anyone know if there is a real fill on these? Or am I honestly supposed to fill it in that little tube under the seat? Thanks all.
Adam


317 2.jpg

317 3.jpg

#2 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted February 21, 2011 - 11:55 AM

Adam, You could have 2 or 3 area's that you want to look at.
1- The lift cylinder piston seals could be leaking allowing fluid to bypass from lift side to lower side of cylinder.
2- Your valve body may need to be rebuilt, the o-rings could be letting fluid bypass.
3- Hose leaks, you said that you had a few drops on the floor from sitting overnight, it may be it ,but I doubt that is the problem.
More often then not it's in the first 2 problems.

Hope this helps, Brian
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#3 middleageddeere OFFLINE  

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Posted February 21, 2011 - 12:00 PM

Thank you that is great info. I have a few new questions based on what you said though...
1-It seems both front and back lower and about the same rate, so I am guessing it isn't the cylinders...would that be correct?
2-This seems to fit the best, however, how do I do that?
3-I rarely have to put fluid in so I agree I don't think this is the answer. But would a drop or two make it move that much or are we talking a greater amount?

#4 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted February 21, 2011 - 12:23 PM

The only way to fix it, is to remove the valve body from the tractor and either rebuild it yourself, or take it to a hydraulic shop and get it rebuilt there.
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#5 middleageddeere OFFLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2011 - 03:32 PM

Can anyone chime in on some of my other questions? Or explain what a valve body rebuild would entail? Or- How much it might cost to get done? Thanks
Adam

#6 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2011 - 04:00 PM

I have not rebuilt one of the JD's but I have rebuilt several valve bodies on other equipment we have and usually its a matter of removing the valve body from the tractor, making sure you map out where all the lines goes, cleaning the valve really well, disassembly of valve, inspecting all the parts, pistons, bore of valve body, and any check balls and springs that might in it. You want to look for deep scratches in the bore, also you will need to replace all of the O-rings in the valve assy. More than likely you have got some trash at one time in the valve and its nicked one of the O-rings. I will look around and see if I can find an exploded view of your valve.

#7 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2011 - 04:06 PM

The valves aren't hard to rebuild at all really. Like Brian said, just mapping how everything comes apart so it goes back right & cleaning all very good. My MF1650 spool assembly needed new o-rings. Cost me all of $2 to repair it for the o-rings.
That little hose is actually your oil level indicator, but I'm not sure where the oil is refilled at.
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#8 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2011 - 04:21 PM

Check under your seat for a hydro fill tube and dip stick.

#9 cp7 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2011 - 09:35 PM

Here's a picture of your valve. It calls for two different ones so you'll have to figure out which one you have.
The Deere's just have a site tube for the oil level and yes they are a pain to fill.





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#10 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted February 25, 2011 - 06:27 AM

Just be careful when pulling the valve assembly apart, with some of the pieces being under spring tension it makes for fun trying to find the stuff when it goes flying.

If rebuilding the valve body doesn't fix the lift speed issue on the rear the only other problem could be that the rear lift cylinder needs rebuilt, as Brian mentioned if it is letting oil pressure past the piston it is basically fighting itself. With having the extra weight on the implement it will make it even more noticeable as you are seeing.
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#11 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted February 25, 2011 - 06:29 AM

Just a side note, that 70lbs you have added on there is a good bit of weight to be out that far away. It is probably equivalent to 350lbs + being out that far from the pivot not including the weight of the attachment.
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#12 middleageddeere OFFLINE  

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Posted February 25, 2011 - 09:44 AM

Wow...yeah at least for now I took some weight off. My temporary fix until it either gets worse or I decided I can have that tractor down for a while. Thanks guys. I appreciate the help.

#13 middleageddeere OFFLINE  

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Posted February 26, 2011 - 11:14 AM

One of the other things I just thought about is my forward/reverse lever doesn't stay where I put it. Is that normal? If I move it, it stays where it is until the tractor hits resistance. Right now that is snow. So, maybe in the spring this won't be an issue but it seems like it is supposed to stay where I put it...I don't know.

#14 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted February 26, 2011 - 11:08 PM

I'm not very familiar with the JD's, but the hydro control arm should have a tension system to keep the control arm in place. Likely just an adjustment issue.

#15 mjay OFFLINE  

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Posted February 27, 2011 - 03:09 AM

It is possible that your hydro could be getting weak. A poor pump would cause reduced lifting capacity, and slower lifting under load.
That would also cause the tractor to slow down when it hits resistance.




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