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Old Girl 1978 Roper


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#766 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted July 19, 2015 - 06:39 AM

Why aren't you guys smiling? You've been playing with tractors!

Glad you all got together. Maybe next year, you'll need a wider lens for more people.
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#767 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted July 19, 2015 - 02:36 PM

Déjà-View..... I was able to re-torque the pan bolts to 35ft lb. I needed to remove the engine to clean up the oil. hard to tell if the leak slowed yet. A couple more mods that need done.

1. I need to create a "controlled dent" either on the new muffler, or Air filter housing to keep them from touching.

2. I need to add a parking brake indicator lamp. I keep forgetting to let the brake off.

3. I need to find some heat resistant material to line the inside of the hood over the muffler.

 

Still waiting for Onan Parts to come back from vacation.  

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#768 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted July 19, 2015 - 06:15 PM

I looked under the Roper and couldn't find a good spot for a switch. The little micro switch looks to work good off the brake lever, and I can attach it with good double sided tape or epoxy. The real issue is the indicator lamp location. I used an amber side marker to indicate a stuck solenoid condition and mounted it on the side panel in an existing hole. This has worked well, but you still need to lean over to check it after the engine is started. I am thinking on getting a couple indicator lamps to add to the top of the dash, (Starter release, and Parking brake) this will require a couple holes, but I need these to be staring me in the face. Thoughts?

PS, I don't think "Phoenix" the shop cat likes the Roper in it's current condition. He prefers complete GT's.

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#769 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted July 19, 2015 - 06:45 PM


This is similar to what we have at work
Don't know how long it will last, but it's at leat an idea


http://t.harborfreig...ack-to-top-link
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#770 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted July 19, 2015 - 08:10 PM

I was looking at this, no specifications, but the size is right. http://cycleplicity....rabberNOFITMENT



#771 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted July 20, 2015 - 09:39 PM

Slowley getting the leak to stop. Came home tonight and only a small damp spot on one pan bolt, Tightened it up some more 9almost 3/4 turn, changed the diaper and will check again tomorrow evening, Added a park brake light, and stuck solenoid light. Used an existing hole that the PTO switch went to and added one more.

 

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#772 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted July 21, 2015 - 10:10 AM

Most of my other restores like RED, Hulk II, and BMP, those were done in a tin 12 X 24 un-insulated shop, usually during the hottest Texas Months. The work I did last night on Old Girl was super relaxing and enjoyable even with a heat index of 106* outside, and not dropping below 90* before 10:00pm. I have to admit that after 6 years of working out of the old shop, the new shop with insulation and A/C (and heat) has made this hobby 100% more enjoyable for me. Now if we can only fix the NLA issue, and expensive issues for some parts.

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#773 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted July 21, 2015 - 06:19 PM

Still some seepage, not near as bad as before. I hit the two bolts with the air impact set to 90psi. Wiped everything down again and set on new paper towels. We will see what happens tomorrow. Here are the indicator lamps I added. (Park Brake / Stuck Solenoid) Tested them this evening.

https://www.youtube....h?v=9_oVCPLsk9I

 

 

 

 

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#774 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted July 21, 2015 - 08:09 PM

Have you considered putting that Onan in with wing nuts? :poke:
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#775 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted July 21, 2015 - 08:34 PM

I was afraid to try the controlled dent in the muffler to get a gap between it and the air filter housing. My neighbor thinks he can do something to fix it. I did let him know I have $400.00 tied up in that muffler. I hope he can help.

 

Yes, I am getting proficient removing the engine. I actually re-routed the oil pressure gauge tube so it doesn't go through the hole in the shroud for the pulse pump. Make removing the shroud easier now. I will be doing some touch up paint once the leaked is fixed and I start re-assembly for the third time.

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#776 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted July 22, 2015 - 07:06 PM

No joy tonight :mad2: , still seeping so I am draining the oil and will be removing the pan this weekend. Mr. Onan will be back on the 9th and I will order the gaskets then. Neighbor did a good job on the muffler mod. A quick test fit shows it should work fine and get rid of the clatter. I hope to have her back together for the next show on Sept 19th. I'll get the muffler painted up while waiting on the gaskets.

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#777 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted July 22, 2015 - 07:52 PM

I swore I used very little permatex. lots of little bits in the pan ???? The pan bolts came out easily, too easily. The gasket is still intact and came off easily. I am not sure what is going on here. Two corners are wet, and two are dry. Bolt holes are grungy. 

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#778 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted July 22, 2015 - 08:25 PM

I checked the manual and it calls for Hex head cap screw 3/8 - 16 X 1-1/4 with a 3/8 lock washer. What actually came out was Shoulder bolt 5/8 - 16 X 3" with a 5/8 lock washer. Looking at the 3" shoulder bolt it bottoms out on the hole with a thread or two showing. Coming up through the pan (with a 5/8 lock washer) the shoulder protrudes a good 1/4 inch. I either need to add a thick flat washer along with the lock washer, or get a slightly shorter bolt.

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#779 UncleWillie ONLINE  

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Posted July 22, 2015 - 09:56 PM

It is always the little things aint it?


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#780 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted July 22, 2015 - 10:02 PM

Yea Willie, looks like some thick washers should allow me to snug the pan to the gasket. This is probably why the original bolts were bent. And the manual is completely wrong. Both the Roper 20T and Sears 19.9.


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