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Old Girl 1978 Roper


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#616 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted May 20, 2015 - 09:14 AM

Glad you got it charging again.

For future reference you can get that same regulator for around $15-20, $44 is robbery!  I use that same 20 amp regulator on my Tecumseh.


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#617 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted May 20, 2015 - 09:18 AM

I am thinking the oil leak is from the timing gear cover some where, opposite side from the oil pump. I'll run it a bit before I tear into it so I can change the oil and filter after break in, and hopefully will have enough oil seepage to pin point the leak location.



#618 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted May 21, 2015 - 09:07 PM

Still working on engine break-in. So far no smoke on startup, or throttle up. Quick throttle down and it returns to idle nicely. I plan to check the governed rpm tomorrow or Saturday, Pick up a new oil filter and oil. Sunday or Monday pull the shroud and flywheel to find the leak. I am almost positive it is the timing gear cover, but I am not ruling out the shaft seal till I can look at it. Today's break-in consisted of checking the fabricated muffler temp. Yep...HOT. Jiffy Pop is supposed to be done on an open flame stove or grill burner so it really didn't pop right, but I could cook on this if the power goes out. :thumbs:

https://www.youtube....eature=youtu.be

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#619 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted May 22, 2015 - 07:39 PM

As you know I fixed the voltage regulator yesterday by adding a ground wire. Today I was running the engine around 1/3 throttle and noticed a sputtering sound (not sounding smooth as before). I suspected the points needed adjusted so I pulled the point cover and noticed a lot od arcing. While observing the points I noticed the engine would get slightly rough when the arcing was strongest. (Forgive the multiple posts on this as I don't know how to do this in one). I also think someone else was questioning arcing at the points, I think I have solved mine, but not sure.

https://www.youtube....h?v=FoqHUsfbbvQ


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#620 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted May 22, 2015 - 07:43 PM

So I got out the multimeter and confirmed what I was seeing on the Old Girls voltmeter 16 + volts. This seems rather high, and I was thinking this might be contributing to the points arcing.
https://www.youtube....h?v=E9MdVzXYbaA
 

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#621 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted May 22, 2015 - 07:46 PM

I disconnected the voltage regulator and ran it just off the battery, 13 volts down to 12 volts, the point arcing just about disappeared and the engine smoothed back out.
https://www.youtube....h?v=udWUYF7pYmE
 



#622 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted May 22, 2015 - 07:49 PM

As a final test I hooked my battery charger up, the battery stayed at 13.8 volts and the engine ran fine. I think this confirms a bad voltage regulator. What are you opinions?
https://www.youtube....h?v=u9k44bgV8Y0

 



#623 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted May 22, 2015 - 09:51 PM

I think that's a little high.
I wouldn't really expect much over 14 volts
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#624 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted May 22, 2015 - 10:22 PM

That was my thought too, so I tested with just the 2 / 6 amp battery charger. 2 amp trickle runs fine at 13.8 volts, switching to 6 amp takes the volts to 15 + and I pick up a stumble.

 

https://www.youtube....h?v=jNoxjDTAgV0



#625 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted May 23, 2015 - 07:45 PM

Instead of beating a dead horse with this, the short answer is a new regulator has been ordered. long answer is here http://www.mytractor...e-question.html
 



#626 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted May 23, 2015 - 08:26 PM

Done swapping batteries, Regulator is on order. Now back to the muffler issue, then the oil leak. I have a plan "B" for the mufflers, going out tomorrow to see if I get the parts to make "MY" idea work. stay tuned.

 

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#627 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted May 25, 2015 - 08:03 PM

Plan "B" for the mufflers is giving me issues. The pipe fittings work, but for the connection to the manifold all I could find was an electrical compression fitting, this fitting seems to be made of pewter. It works fine till it heats up, then the fitting loosens up allowing the mufflers to swing back and forth. No matter how tight I crank on it. I have had it off 3 or 4 times and pounded the fitting tight, still loosens up. Oh yes the pepper shakers are WAY louder, Here is where I am chasing the voltage reg / condenser / point arcing issue (parts are being ordered for this). https://www.youtube....h?v=Msdqzi93TZM

 

 

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#628 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted May 26, 2015 - 05:38 AM

Plan "B" for the mufflers is giving me issues. The pipe fittings work, but for the connection to the manifold all I could find was an electrical compression fitting, this fitting seems to be made of pewter. It works fine till it heats up, then the fitting loosens up allowing the mufflers to swing back and forth. No matter how tight I crank on it. I have had it off 3 or 4 times and pounded the fitting tight, still loosens up. Oh yes the pepper shakers are WAY louder, Here is where I am chasing the voltage reg / condenser / point arcing issue (parts are being ordered for this). https://www.youtube....h?v=Msdqzi93TZM

Those are not good for exhaust, for sure. I used all pipe fittings on Bertha!


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#629 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted May 26, 2015 - 08:21 AM

Working on a plan "C" I think that is where I am at with the mufflers..... Anyhow I will go looking for 1-1/4 muffler clamps, and clamp the NPT pipe inside the manifold, and go with all 1" NPT fittings.


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#630 mrmr56 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 26, 2015 - 02:58 PM

Larry, what size are the exhaust tubes? A hex pipe plug in the correct pipe size that you want to use can be bored out on the hex end for the correct size and then welded or brazed to the tube.


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