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Old Girl 1978 Roper


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#601 Georgia SS OFFLINE  

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Posted May 17, 2015 - 09:43 PM

HI Larry
Were you getting ground to the solonoid through the paint, just a thought. OK for the serious stuff
i just won bid for some sears tie rods, missed a gas tank by $.50, from a person in Tennesse, off a roper 18T in the background of his photo was a 20T Roper, I have emailed the seller asking if he was going to part out the 20T, thought may be a source for a pair of mufflers.
Greetings
Jimmy
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#602 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted May 18, 2015 - 12:44 PM

The "Ford" Solonoid is grounded to the chassis and is energized with switched 12V + to the small terminal. The Roper (and most Sears / Craftsman) are energized by switched Ground to the small terminal (this isn't available on the Ford Solonoid). I can solve this by isolateing the solonid from Ground and attach 12V + to the small terminal, and attaching the switched negitive to the isolated mounting tabs. Pictures to follow later this week. I have to start cutting the grass when I get home.


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#603 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted May 18, 2015 - 10:14 PM

Tonight's troubleshooting got rather involved, and it is not over yet. I added ground isolators and hooked up the power supply and a test lamp to see if that fixed the issue. Seems like the solenoid is sticking but I will test that tomorrow as after looking at the diagram the white wires are indeed 12V + switched through the safeties. I confirmed the safety switches are working, and I do get 12V + off the white wire when the key is turned. I checked the ford solenoid against the original, the only difference is the ground in on the ford mounting tabs, and on the second small terminal on the original. I'll bench the solenoid tomorrow to check for proper operation, but I think I had a brain-fart with the wiring and the isolators shouldn't be needed. Stay tuned.

https://www.youtube....eature=youtu.be

 

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#604 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted May 18, 2015 - 10:29 PM

If the bench test is ok, check to see if there is some kinda loop back in your circuit.
It sounds like a self latching circuit somehow.
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#605 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted May 18, 2015 - 10:33 PM

That is what I am thinking. I just want to get it right before putting the dash back on because it is a PITA! I would like to move the solenoid but it would require a rewire. Get it right and button it up sounds better.


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#606 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted May 19, 2015 - 01:57 PM

Yaaaa!, I finally figured it out. I can't figure how I got it in my head that the solenoid was switched using a ground path through the safeties :wallbanging: 
Grounded the solenoid and connected the white wire to the correct post and wallaa, it works. Now to put the dash back on.

 

https://www.youtube....h?v=z1pV1WRv23Q

 

 

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#607 Georgia SS OFFLINE  

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Posted May 19, 2015 - 05:07 PM

HI LARRY
GLAD YOU GOT THE SOLONOID PROBLEM WORKED OUT, JUST A BIT OF INFO. FOR FUTURE USERS THAT MAY BE CHANGING STARTER SOLONOIDS, YOU REFER TO FORD DESIGN, THERE IS FOUR PART # FOR THAT TYPE SOLONOID, THEY ALL TAKE 6-12 VOLT TO ACTIVATE, THE # YOU USED IS MOSTLY USED ON STANDARD SHIFT VEHICLES, THE SMALL TERMINAL THAT YOU DIDNOT USE GOES TO THE POS. SIDE OF THE IGN.COIL TO SHOOT 12 VOLT. TO COIL WHILE YOU HAVE THE KEY IN START POSITION, ANOTHER PART # IS FOR AUTO.TRANS. SHIFTER GROUNDS THE OTHER SMALL TERMINAL TO FINISH THE CIRCUIT, ONE HAS ONLY ONE SMALL TERMINAL FOR 12 VOLT.ACTIVATION, AND THE KICKER IS THE ONE THAT IS INTERNALLY WIRED TO 12 VOLT AND YOU GROUND THE ONE SMALL TERMINAL WITH A GROUNDED STARTER BUTTON. THIS BEING THE ONLY ONE THAT MATTERS WHICH SIDE OF THE SOLONOID YOU PUT THE 12 VOLT ON. THIS COULD BRING UP A DISCUSSION ON THE TYPE IGNITION SWITCH TO BE USED, SOME MOWER SWITCHES DROP 12 VOLT TO THE IGN.COIL WHILE OVER IN START POSITION.SURE CAUSES STARTING PROBLEMS.
HAVE A GOOD DAY
JIMMY
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#608 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted May 19, 2015 - 05:10 PM

Two steps foreword, one step back today. I cranked the Old Girl over today, showed 10psi on the oil gauge, and gas was getting to the carb. I had to adjust the new points till I got spark on the tester then Vroooooommmmmmm!!!!!!!, She lives! But now another issue I'll discuss in the next post. For now savor the sound! 

 

https://www.youtube....h?v=6m5CRK5diN8

 

https://www.youtube....h?v=9z8_naTVcEA


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#609 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted May 19, 2015 - 05:25 PM

She sounds great Larry!


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#610 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted May 19, 2015 - 05:25 PM

Looks like the voltage regulator took a dump. In the second video you can see 13+ volts on the meter, then it dropped. I shut the engine off and checked all the connections and fuses. I checked the stator voltage at high idle and have over 15 VAC, but with the regulator plugged in I get a negative reading on the DC scale. Looks like one of these is needed unless you think I missed something.

http://www.regulator...lator-Rectifier

 

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#611 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted May 19, 2015 - 06:00 PM

I thought they needed over 20V Ac to work?


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#612 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted May 19, 2015 - 06:35 PM

I'll try and bring the RPM up some, once it cools off and I can open the shop doors.


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#613 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted May 19, 2015 - 08:28 PM

Got a message that the regulator may need a better ground cause of the paint, so I added a temp ground to the regulator and it is working like a champ!, I'll add a permanent ground after I pull the front shroud and flywheel to see where this oil leak originates.

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#614 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted May 19, 2015 - 09:57 PM

More engine porn, before I pull it apart to find a oil leak. I plan to run it as much as possible before the weekend so I can change the break in oil and filter after finding  and fixing the leak.

https://www.youtube....eature=youtu.be


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#615 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted May 20, 2015 - 04:39 AM

Glad it's charging again! Where does the oil leak appear to originate?


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