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Old Girl 1978 Roper


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#586 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted May 15, 2015 - 09:14 PM

Tonight's engine work. Before and after. Only mod was to add a engine ground wire from the lower starter bolt. This will be connected to the rest of the ground wires.

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#587 Georgia SS OFFLINE  

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Posted May 15, 2015 - 10:25 PM

Hi Larry

Back when the muffler discussion started someone i believe offered some GT18 sears mufflers, i would take the GT18 mufflers cut the pipes where necessary  and take as much as possible to salvage of the 19.9 muffler pipes and weld together, the GT18 Pipes will probably slide inside the 19.9 pipes, probably be a comment about pipe restriction, don't worry you will never notice the lost horsepower, I am installing a 224 performer on one of mine, no one will believe it but that will be one dangerous machine, I have a GT18 with wheel weights that will flip over backwards, I don't ride it without an attachment on the 3 point hitch.Sure gets tempting to make it stand up.

Take Care

Jimmy :wave:


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#588 Georgia SS OFFLINE  

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Posted May 15, 2015 - 10:51 PM

PS

Be careful with the ground wire on the starter bolt, after the flywheel is installed you will need to adjust the starter drive (bendix) to flywheel clearence, because  it is very close back there, if the starter needed to be pulled in the frame you sure would not want that cable there.

Jimmy


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#589 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted May 16, 2015 - 06:36 AM

PS
Be careful with the ground wire on the starter bolt, after the flywheel is installed you will need to adjust the starter drive (bendix) to flywheel clearence, because  it is very close back there, if the starter needed to be pulled in the frame you sure would not want that cable there.
Jimmy


Good call on that wire, I had to remove one recently and even with the flywheel off, there were challenges to it being on the tractor.
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#590 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted May 16, 2015 - 07:23 AM

Hi Larry

Back when the muffler discussion started someone i believe offered some GT18 sears mufflers, i would take the GT18 mufflers cut the pipes where necessary  and take as much as possible to salvage of the 19.9 muffler pipes and weld together, the GT18 Pipes will probably slide inside the 19.9 pipes, probably be a comment about pipe restriction, don't worry you will never notice the lost horsepower, I am installing a 224 performer on one of mine, no one will believe it but that will be one dangerous machine, I have a GT18 with wheel weights that will flip over backwards, I don't ride it without an attachment on the 3 point hitch.Sure gets tempting to make it stand up.

Take Care

Jimmy :wave:

I purchased those mufflers (Still have them). they are not much larger than the pepper shakers. I thought of that, but decided against destroying another set of NLA mufflers.



#591 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted May 16, 2015 - 11:29 AM

I will move the ground wire to the engine mounting bolts. It didn't look like it would interfere on the lower starter bolt, the top bolt is used to set the pinion lash (0.020 - 0.010). Ran to town to pick up an oil gauge as now is a good time to add the pluming.

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#592 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted May 16, 2015 - 12:16 PM

Larry,
You're probably right in that it wouldn't be an issue, but I do remember thinking this could be easier a lot during the removal.
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#593 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted May 16, 2015 - 04:09 PM

I removed the wire, and after setting the starter lash, the flywheel had to come back off so I could torque the starter bolts properly. Here are some progress pictures.

 

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#594 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted May 16, 2015 - 06:26 PM

Fuel pump mounting question. There is a tab on the shroud that has two holes, and the fuel pump has two holes but they don't line up. I dug around the parts box and found a plastic off-set spacer, and spacer. Got the pump mounted secure, but.... went to look at the original mounting. It looks like a bracket is missing and the PO just used one mounting hole, and it is vertical. I think with the spacers I should be OK. If not I'll figure something else out.
How are yours mounted?

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#595 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted May 16, 2015 - 08:49 PM

Here is the one on my Sears 19.9

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#596 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted May 16, 2015 - 08:53 PM

Thanks, totally different from mine. Waiting for help to lift the engine on the tractor so I can finalize the locations for the fuel pump and oil gauge. It got heavy after I added the flywheel, Starter, and tins.



#597 Georgia SS OFFLINE  

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Posted May 16, 2015 - 09:25 PM

Hi Larry

Someone else beat me to the problem with the fuel pump mounting, upgraded pump the original small square pump must not have been very reliable, have only seen two of the square pumps, search for some photos of a p224-226 and look at the way they are mounted, i think that way is the neatest, with in and out on top and bottom wih the pulse line sticking back into the housing. looking good. Had a non tractor person with the newer pump mounted on top of the original, took a lot of explaining on that one.

Have A Good One

Jimmy


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#598 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted May 16, 2015 - 10:15 PM

Engine is set back in the tractor. Looks like the fuel pump will work. Need to find a location for the oil pressure gauge, connect some wiring and fuel lines. Add gas and oil, rob a battery from BMP and I should have a video tomorrow.

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#599 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted May 17, 2015 - 06:38 PM

Well the start up was a failure, I prepped and checked everything got the video rolling then NOTHING! I spent several hours trouble shooting. Ended up removing the dash to find the NEW Tractor supply Ford tractor Solenoid was DOA. (Yes I found my receipt). What a bummer, I wanted to hear how the muffler sounded.  

https://www.youtube....h?v=c655p1PfnI4

https://www.youtube....h?v=qbSOqwG_OWU

 

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#600 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted May 17, 2015 - 08:25 PM

Main issue is the Ford Solenoid, It is activated from the mounting tabs and left small terminal. I either need to find a way to isolate it from chassis ground or use the Sears Chinese Solenoid which the high current terminals are smaller than the starter wire. 






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