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Old Girl 1978 Roper


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#31 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted November 04, 2014 - 05:45 AM

The hour meter is reading 569, but it could be 1169. Looking for my pic of how to read these. I'll post it here when I find it.

 

Edit: Page 16 of the Ford Operators manual has the how to read the meter. Can't find my pic right now.


Edited by KennyP, November 04, 2014 - 06:13 AM.
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#32 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted November 04, 2014 - 07:47 AM

Larry, the Roper 20T was only made in 1979 so that looks like what you have, they quit making this body style after that.  
 
Manual can be found on this site, just have to scroll down left side, pick Roper tractors, then the 20T model. 
 
http://www.searstractormanuals.com/
 
Got this off another site so I cannot verify info or links....
 


RRoper 42" deck Model #TT2131R

Roper 42" deck Model #TT728CR
Roper 48" deck Model #TT738CR
Sears 42" deck Model #917.253250
Sears 42" deck Model #917.253540
Sears 42" deck Model #917.553580
Sears 42" deck Model #917.253582
Sears 48" deck Model #917.253551
Sears 48" deck Model #917.253590
Sears 48" deck Model #917.253592

& Possibly Others.




Bearings & Races

Outer Mandrels, )you will need 2 for each mandrel, 4 in total for the deck.)

Outer Mandrel Bearing & Race, Sears Part #1554H & 1553H, use Napa part # SME 704298 

Metallic Grease Seal, Sears part #881R. this part is available from Sears Parts Direct.

Center Mandrel, (you will need 2 for each mandrel, 2 in total for the deck.)

Center Mandrel Bearing, Sears Part #888R Use Timken Roller Bearing Part Number LM12749
Center Mandrel Race ( Cup), Sears Part #9494H, use Timken Roller Bearing part # LM12711

Metallic Grease Seal, Sears part #882R is no longer available, however it appears that part #881R can be used, but the center hole will need to be enlarged from 0.750" to 0.8658" it will then fit the shaft. ( I have not actually tried this, however using the bore diameter of the bearing, this measurement would be correct for the seal to fit over the shaft). On a complete deck overhaul, this would bring the required number of the 881R seals up to 6


The deck belts ( Center Mandrel to outer) for these decks are:

For the 42" decks, the original sears part number is 6942R, which is a 1/2" X 87" belt. This can be replaced easily by using Gates Belts part # A85 or by using Napa part #NBH A85.

For the 48" decks, the original sears part number is 6943R, which is a 1/2" X 92" Belt. This can be replaced easily by using Gates Belts part # A90 or by using NAPA part # NBH A90.

The Drive Belt ( Engine to center mandrel)

The Engine to drive belt listed in the manuals for the above mentioned decks is either sears part #6941R or sears part #3555R, both of which are 5/8" X 103" & they both interchange to a Gates BX100 or NAPA Part # NBH BX100 This assumes that you have the correct mule drive that came with the deck. Older mule drives had smaller diameter pulleys, if yours is not the original one for the deck, you may need to try a 102" or even a 101" belt to accommodate the smaller pulley diameter.



Blades

The 42" decks need 3 - 14 5/8" blades, the original sears part number was either 9480R or 9484H, both of which interchange to NAPA Part # SME 704523. This blade can also be purchased online thru www.findparts.com

The 48" decks need 3 - 16 5/8" blades, the original sears part number was either 9485H or 9497R, both of which interchange to NAPA Part # SME 704524. This blade can also be purchased HERE


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#33 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted November 04, 2014 - 04:00 PM

Thanks TAHOE, that is a wealth of good information I will need.  


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#34 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted November 05, 2014 - 10:33 PM

I am at the point that I need to remove the engine so I can remove the Clutch pedal and right foot rest. I think I'll stop by HF and pick up one of those mover dolly to place the engine on for now, allowing me to move it out of the way.

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#35 MH81 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 05, 2014 - 10:35 PM

Larry, just make sure it's secured to the dolly as they are a little heavy to one side. Don't want that engine rolling over and getting damaged.
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#36 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted November 06, 2014 - 08:58 PM

Engine has been moved to the dolly and is sitting stable on it. I found the problem why the clutch wouldn't release the drive belt. This is the first real broken part I gave found so far, and I bet it is NLA. It looks to have been welded before. I may have to see if someone can make one of these brackets.

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#37 MH81 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 06, 2014 - 09:58 PM

Don't think I've ever seen one broken like that. Someone must've been a peddle masher.
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#38 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted November 06, 2014 - 10:06 PM

Yep NLA, same for the mufflers..... Gotta love a challenge.



#39 MH81 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 06, 2014 - 10:07 PM

What's up with the muflers
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#40 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted November 06, 2014 - 10:29 PM

They are rusted out.

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#41 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted November 07, 2014 - 05:28 AM

Larry, is that broken part the "Idler Bracket Weldment", part 37 on page 17 of the manual? Part # is 634A754. Might check the sponsors and maybe a wanted ad for one.


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#42 MH81 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 07, 2014 - 06:07 AM

Wow, that damage didnt show up in the video or I missed it.
May be a custom build piece x 2?
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#43 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted November 07, 2014 - 09:03 AM

You should be able to find the clutch bracket pretty easily on the net, Maybe Joe's has one or someone is parting out a Sears suburban with an Onan.

Never heard of one breaking like that....twice even. Wonder if it got worn out and was catching on something when they mashed pedal.

 

Go with dual stacks!!!!  :firejumper:  :D



#44 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted November 07, 2014 - 09:04 AM

Thanks Ken, yes that is the broken part. I'll talk with my neighbor to see if he can weld it up for me. I think it can be repaired. I'll also talk with him to see if a couple of these can be welded in place of the mufflers using the existing muffler pipes, Only the cans are rusted through.

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#45 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted November 07, 2014 - 09:23 AM

I'm going to invest in some of those mufflers one of these days!






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