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Old Girl 1978 Roper


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#391 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted March 10, 2015 - 08:06 AM

At least you got all the fins on your flywheel....... I will just leave it at that   :wallbanging:  :(

 

 

If you decide to rebuild the starter do it now, motor will have to come back out if it goes bad in the future.

That's for sure. I have to pull the P220 so I can get to the starter on it.


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#392 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted March 10, 2015 - 04:30 PM

The engine info is (N52M-GA 0199/358GB S/N J83388404). Took the afternoon off from the paying job. The engine is coming apart rather easy. Haven't broke a bolt yet. loosened the flywheel bolt (nice touch it being indented) used the "bolt type wheel puller", couple zaps with the air impact and it popped right off. Alternator and coil removed. Spun it around and hit my first (minor) snag, the oil plug is froze to the pipe, and the pipe was coming out of the block, so I tightened it up before I made a mess, and moved to the oil plug at the bottom of the dip stick. While the oil is draining I removed the two set screws from the pulley. Not sure what the threaded part of the shaft is for, unless for a bolt to rest my bearing puller on to pop the pulley off with. At least that is what I will use it for. Yes I am taking many pictures of each item before I remove it. I am letting the last few drops of oil drain before I remove the pulley.  

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#393 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted March 10, 2015 - 08:43 PM

I have the engine broke down to the block. I plugged all the orifices in preparation for a good pressure wash using simple green and scotch bright pads. I need to see about getting a carb kit and an oil filter now.  

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#394 UncleWillie ONLINE  

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Posted March 10, 2015 - 09:01 PM

Looks like things are moving along nicely!


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#395 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted March 10, 2015 - 09:32 PM

Thanks Willie! Justifies taking time off from work. 



#396 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted March 11, 2015 - 04:08 AM

I'd say a bath is in order there!


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#397 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted March 11, 2015 - 07:32 AM

I know that pain, my Onan out of my MF was caked with oil and grime. Guys used it to grade a gravel drive constantly, didn't think it would ever come clean.


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#398 Sawdust ONLINE  

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Posted March 11, 2015 - 10:14 AM

I like the idea of putting the engine on a dolly. Convenient to wheel out for pressure washing too. I've never used the Simple Green before, looking forward to seeing your results. Coming along nicely.
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#399 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted March 11, 2015 - 07:54 PM

Cleaned the engine up and started the tear down. Goal is to remove the pistons and check the bore and rings, looks like I'll be removing the valves and cleaning those up too. Trying my best not to disturb any timing settings. It is set with a hex screw. I need to buy a socket that will fit the spline bolt on the piston crank, an 11/32 socket fits, but I need the right tool to remove the pistons. Bore's look clean, a little seepage on #2, re-ringing should fix this. Hopefully I won't need to remove the cam or oil pump. Also looks like something was chewing on one of the cooling fins. Working on gasket removal now.

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#400 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted March 12, 2015 - 06:36 AM

Holy cow, you've been busy.
On that cooling fin, it appears you have big, tough termites down there, I don't want to meet one.
And these are the bolts that were causing me grief on mine. Nice pic.
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#401 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted March 12, 2015 - 07:31 AM

Either termites or mice with carbide teeth! Looking good, Larry!



#402 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted March 12, 2015 - 08:08 PM

I took the starter to the generator shop today and talked with the owner a bit. We discussed what I was expecting, and he said no-problem then proceeded to show me some restored GT pictures on is phone that they has worked on, I think one was a Panzer. Any how he assured me that they would be able to re-manufacture the starter for around 65 - 85. seeing the price for a new starter I agreed to the cost. After work I headed to Harbor Freight with to pick up a set of 12-point sockets, It appears that Torx didn't exist in Old Girls era.The 12-point 5/16 fits like a glove. As they say, "don't go grocery shopping when hungry" I'll add a new one, "Don't go to Harbor Freight ON Payday!" sidelaugh.gif All I was after was the socket!
I decided that I will need to take the block into a machine shop to have the cylinders checked. The cheapest Bore Gauge Kit I found was $60.00. With this in mind I removed the oil pickup tube to allow easier access to the rod bolts and transport to a shop.

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#403 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted March 12, 2015 - 08:11 PM

What will the shop charge to check the bore?
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#404 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted March 12, 2015 - 09:02 PM

What will the shop charge to check the bore?

I will have to ask the shop. will be next week, I still need to remove the pistons and valves.



#405 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted March 13, 2015 - 04:32 PM

Picked up the starter, $75.00 replaced brushes and bushings and cleaned up the armature. He said it looked pretty good before he started on it.

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