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Old Girl 1978 Roper


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#256 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted January 27, 2015 - 02:00 PM

Sorry I refered the switch as a PTO switch because that is what it is on the other Craftsman's, It is a Rear electric Acuator switch, the switch is actually cross wired to switch polarity to the actuator. I think I may use a standard on/off switch to provide power to a sprayer or other attachment. Easy enough to swap in the cross over switch if I find an attachment with an actuator later on. 


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#257 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted January 27, 2015 - 10:20 PM

Working on the wires this week, for the "few (one)" splice I am soldering the connections and double heat shrink. For the connectors I am crimping, soldering, and heat shrink. I'll only be re-using the plastic connector blocks (they clean up good with the dremel wire brush) and ignition switch. Right now it is one wire at a time, From the ignition switch to the end connector. I am also replacing the glass fuse holders with modern sealed blade fuse connectors.  

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#258 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted January 27, 2015 - 10:36 PM

That's looking really nice. Upgrading without modifying. :thumbs:
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#259 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted January 28, 2015 - 06:52 AM

That should last a few more years! I like the fuse holders!


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#260 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted January 28, 2015 - 09:17 PM

Which would you use? New China or Used (functional) USA? Well, I got mad today.... not too mad... rather aggravated. I received the new solenoid from Sears and was dismayed, Although listed as a functional substitute, I am sure it will melt down with a 420CCA battery while cranking the 20HP Onan. Also, the light switch I ordered is pending manufacture availability :wallbanging:  we know what that means. I found Both can be obtained at Automotive stores. I Had this monster solenoid in a parts box for many years, no clue as to what it once went to but here are the specifications. http://www.ametekswi...l-Case-SAS.aspx I checked the fit and it will bolt right in, or if I want to turn it 90*  to clear the high amp terminals then only one additional hole needs drilled. I think the USA solenoid I have is the 100A version, no melting there :D   

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#261 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted January 28, 2015 - 09:24 PM

Yea, yea, yea.... I saw the coil voltage is rated at 7 volts :mad2: . Thoughts on using a high current drop resistor?



#262 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted January 28, 2015 - 09:39 PM

The 7v would that be minimum latch voltage. Should be fine at 12?
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#263 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted January 28, 2015 - 09:50 PM

I checked the spec again, the coil for 7V is 6.1 ohms, mine measures 6.6, for 12V I need 14.5 ohms. I either get a drop resistor to match the Ohms, or go to T/S and get a real tractor solenoid...... And light switch.... I saw both there last week (Doh)!

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#264 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted January 28, 2015 - 10:00 PM

Based on the solenoid location (difficult to access once everything is put together) options I have.

1. Get a better 12V solenoid and mount it in the original location.

2. Use the new china solenoid and relocate it to a more accessible location.

 

I am leaning towards #1 as I will more than likely need to get a new light switch too. I was also eyeballing some round LED driving lights at Walmart that looks close to the size of the headlights. Ohhh the challenges ahead!


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#265 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted January 31, 2015 - 11:46 PM

I went ahead and got a Ford Solenoid from T/S which will work great! All the pulleys are replaced, and I was able to restore the old pulleys for spares. I installed the rear-end (twice). I forgot to install the two grade 5 carrage bolts for the seat spring, which required dropping the transmission to get these in. Working on the brake hardware now. Clutch pulleys are installed, I need to pick up a 5.8 - 83" belt next week.
The Wire harness is almost done, I will need to make some modifications as I am working on replaceing the lights with LEDs, The headlight seem to be 6 volt sealed beams wired in series.

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#266 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted January 31, 2015 - 11:50 PM

Larry, glad you are making headway.
The headlights are supposed to be 12 in parallel.
The last 5/8 x 83 I bought, I took back for a 5/8 x 82. Seemed to be just a little long and the clutch was almost at the upper limit when the belt adjustment was at max. I wanted a little more adjustment than that.
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#267 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted February 01, 2015 - 12:07 AM

Good info! The light wire harness in definitely in series, I am looking to change it up to 12 V LED head lights.

 

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#268 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted February 01, 2015 - 12:18 AM

That harness is in series, but the bulbs should be in parallel.
Unless I am mistaken, They both have a ground lead?

Semantics :D
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#269 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted February 01, 2015 - 12:19 AM

Oops, that is the safety switch harness. Still working on this.


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#270 Bmerf ONLINE  

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Posted February 01, 2015 - 08:02 AM

FYI, I think that your solenoid may require a ground to one of the small lugs. Some Ford type solenoids are grounded internally, others (usually the ones with two small lugs) require one of the lugs to be grounded. On a Ford car this second lug usually went to a neutral safety switch that would supply the required ground if the vehicle was in park or neutral. You could hook this up so that the starter would only engage if the clutch was depressed.

 

Just food for thought. I'm not sure if you were aware of this or not. As you stated that it was inaccessible, maybe a little testing is in order.


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