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Jaques Mighty Mite Turning Into A Full Blown Restoration.


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#1 classic ONLINE  

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Posted November 01, 2014 - 03:37 PM

In the beginning, I figured that most of the work would be cleaning, painting, and replacing some seals and gaskets. This project has quickly become a complete tear down of everything, and whatever needs replacing is getting replaced. I'm having new axles turned from 4142 steel that just came in yesterday. I was able to source repacked NOS New Departure axle and pinion shaft bearings for cheap, along with NOS National axle oil seals. I just cleaned the crank from the crusty Briggs ZZ engine, and there is still factory machine marks on the crankshaft journal.
It's been taking hours and hours locating parts, and some road trips to gather up bits and pieces. The road trips have been a blast, and I'm meeting some great people along the way. Some people say "why bother with that piece of junk"... (my neighbor among others), but I just don't think they understand the fun in it all. Anyway, I'll keep updating the progress as I move along. I'm taking another road trip to pick up another ZZ with a good coil, and the guy is selling me some kind of walk behind mower with an old Briggs and a heavy roller behind it. I have no idea what it is, but for 50 bucks, I'll take it and post some pics tomorrow.

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#2 classic ONLINE  

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Posted November 01, 2014 - 03:56 PM

At first I thought that this was galling from the connecting rod on the rod journal. After looking at it closely, it's just machine marks, and the journal is at std. Specs.

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#3 Gabriel OFFLINE  

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Posted November 01, 2014 - 05:45 PM

This will be fun to watch!
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#4 superaben OFFLINE  

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Posted November 01, 2014 - 07:34 PM

I'm curious what the walk behind is that you will rescue tomorrow.  :thumbs:

 

If you need ZZ parts, let me know.  I know guys that specialize in old letter series Briggs.  They'll fix you right up.

 

Ben W.


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#5 classic ONLINE  

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Posted November 01, 2014 - 08:32 PM

Thanks Ben, I appreciate it. The guy said it had an old Briggs on it like the PE-75 generator I'm buying from him. He said it has a heavy roller behind it that mats down the grass, but I have no Idea what it could be. It may be a model A or B Briggs or could be something else. It's a 2 hour drive to get there and I should be home by 1PM. I'll post pics when I get back.
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#6 classic ONLINE  

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Posted November 02, 2014 - 12:59 PM

Ben, it turned out to be a Locke reel mower. The generator runs perfect and is in great shape. The guy said the reel mower runs and works fine, but just needs a jet for the carb.

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#7 classic ONLINE  

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Posted December 05, 2014 - 04:27 PM

I sandblasted and scrubbed down the differential housing and made the templates for the new gaskets. Once I make the new gaskets, I'll install the new seals and assemble the differential assembly. The next things to be sandblasted will be the bull gear housings, the frame, and the front axle assembly.

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Edited by classic, December 07, 2014 - 05:35 PM.

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#8 rewalter OFFLINE  

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Posted December 31, 2015 - 10:31 AM

Classic - is there any chance that you kept a parts list of manufacturers and part numbers as you replaced the various gaskets\seals etc?



#9 classic ONLINE  

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Posted December 31, 2015 - 11:22 AM

I haven't assembled the tractor yet, since I'm working on restoring a '56 Power King tractor now. Over time, I have been able to locate more parts for the Mighty Might restoration, and I will begin working on it this spring. Here is a list of some of the bearings and seals. Also, here is a link to another thread about my Mighty Mite project. I also have the part numbers for the front wheel bearings, races, and inner hub seal. The steering spindle thrust bearing part number is Timken T105. I am making all of the drivetrain gaskets myself from rolls of Felpro Karo-Pak gasket material. I don't believe that there is a source for original gaskets.
http://gardentractor...now-a-go/page-3

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#10 classic ONLINE  

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Posted December 31, 2015 - 11:46 AM

Here are the part numbers for the front hub seals, bearings, and races. The Timken T105 spindle thrust bearings are also in the pic below.

1. Inner front hub seals: National 471141
2. Inner front wheel bearings: Timken 15118
3. Inner front wheel bearing races: Timken 15250x
4. Outer front wheel bearings: Timken 09074
5. Outer front wheel bearing races: Timken 09196
6. Front spindle thrust bearing: Timken T105

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#11 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted December 31, 2015 - 02:29 PM

That looks like good PDF material there!



#12 RobR OFFLINE  

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Posted May 08, 2016 - 06:45 AM

I recently acquired a 1947 Jaques Mighty Mite Model 10 (serial #3049) from an ad on Craigslist.  I was looking for something unique and this fit the bill.  I have just begun a total restoration and without manuals to guide me, I am trying to learn as much as possible from anything I can find on the internet.  That's when I came across this website.  My tractor is complete, original ZZ Briggs engine and clutch.  My first question is regarding the clutch.  I pulled it from the engine since it was frozen up with dirt and whatever from just sitting so long.  The toothed friction disc between the two drive plates is a hair over 1/4" thick.  Do I have enough meat on this friction disc?  I have cleaned up the adjustment ring and the rest of the clutch so it operates freely now.  Does anyone have a manual for this tractor?  That would be a real bonus to find one.  I did buy ZZ engine manuals on line.  Thanks for any information you can provide.  I think this little tractor is going to be a fun project and I hope to get it looking as great as the photos I have seen on this thread.


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#13 classic ONLINE  

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Posted May 08, 2016 - 11:35 AM

Congrats on your purchase of the Mighty Mite. The fiber clutch disc (driving plate) and aluminum driving ring are still available through the Twin Disc Clutch Co. Since the clutch is adjustable, you should be fine using yours at the thickness that you mentioned. You should remove the engine, so that you can take the clutch apart and give it a good cleaning. There are small rollers in the 3 clutch fingers that need to roll freely.
I'll be working on my Mighty Mite again soon, but I have a couple of other projects that I'm working on first. I recently found a nice condition steering wheel for the Mighty Mite that I'm removing gold paint from, and I now have all new parts to reassemble the transmission. If you you have any other questions regarding these tractors, just give me a shout. These tractors are pretty simple to work on, but I have never seen a detailed parts/repair manual for one. Post a pic of your tractor here if you can.

#14 classic ONLINE  

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Posted May 08, 2016 - 12:02 PM

Here is the T96 transmission I'm working on. I have to clean up the hardware and disassemble and clean the top cover assembly before it goes together. It's taking hours to clean the paint off of the steering wheel, but it will be worth it when it's done. I won't have to use the reproduction steering wheel that I picked up now. The top steering wheel is the original Sheller brand steering wheel, the bottom left is the reproduction, and the bottom right is the Sheller that I'm removing the paint from by carefully wet sanding.

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#15 RobR OFFLINE  

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Posted May 08, 2016 - 07:21 PM

 I'll post a photo of my Mighty Mite as soon as I figure out how to post photos here with my iMac.  Thanks for answering my first two questions.  The engine is out and the clutch assembly has been pulled off the engine shaft.  I did free up, but not enough.  In order to really do a good job, I want to take everything apart for a thorough cleaning so nothing binds.  The rollers you mention are mostly stuck.  Only a couple roll.  How in the world do you take this thing apart?  The clutch fingers hold it together and the key is removing them, but how?  Your photos are inspiring me to do as good a job as you're doing.  


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