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Wheel Repair

ff 20 wheels rotted wheels rust holes in wheels

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#1 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted October 30, 2014 - 09:35 AM

At the show, I was given a 12" wheel and tire. I was hoping this would be a donor wheel to repair the extra FF20 wheels I have. They have huge rust holes on the inside and are unusable this way. Here is the wheel/tire I got.

Image056.jpg
 
I stripped the tire from it yesterday and found the inside of the wheel in very good condition. I brought out the 2 FF wheels to see if this one wheel would work to replace the interior portion of them.
Image013.jpg
 
The black line is where I will cut this wheel into 2 parts. Here are the rotted wheels that need fixed.
Image012.jpg
 
I have done this on the wheels for Big Bertha to widen them for the 26X12's. So I am versed with what it takes to weld them back together. It may be a couple days before I start all this, but there will be pics for you guys to look at as I perform the operation.
I am not so worried about the wheels failing after the welding as they will not have a high PSI like a vehicle wheel does.

 


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#2 Jlaws OFFLINE  

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Posted October 30, 2014 - 10:48 AM

Kenny , I also have widened rims for the 26 X 12  tires . I've taken a couple of pair of 7 inch wide rims and widened them to around 10 1/2 inches . You can buy 7 inch rims pretty cheap and I never liked the look of the 26 X12's on my 8 1/2 wide stock 982 cub rims .

 

I think most people are leery of trying this project , but as long as you can cut a fairly straight line and a fair welder , its not that hard ......LOL .

 

Its not like they're going to see highway speeds ..... :D


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#3 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted October 30, 2014 - 10:58 AM

Kenny , I also have widened rims for the 26 X 12  tires . I've taken a couple of pair of 7 inch wide rims and widened them to around 10 1/2 inches . You can buy 7 inch rims pretty cheap and I never liked the look of the 26 X12's on my 8 1/2 wide stock 982 cub rims .

 

I think most people are leery of trying this project , but as long as you can cut a fairly straight line and a fair welder , its not that hard ......LOL .

 

Its not like they're going to see highway speeds ..... :D

The hardest part is welding without a huge bead poking out to grind off. I'll get into my 'technique' when I start welding them back together.


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#4 LilysDad ONLINE  

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Posted October 30, 2014 - 11:01 AM

Do you cut these on a lathe?



#5 Bud W OFFLINE  

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Posted October 30, 2014 - 11:31 AM

My Dad just repaired a pair for his 1476. He used a hand held bandsaw to cut them and then welded them back together. They look great.



#6 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted October 30, 2014 - 01:29 PM

Have seen stock car driver that used to block up the car and hub, mount wheel and have torch held in place on cement blocks or other home-made support and just turned the wheel on the hub as the torch ran. Did pretty good job. He was widening those for racing. 



#7 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted October 30, 2014 - 02:34 PM

Do you cut these on a lathe?

Nope! Just my all-in-one 4-1/2" angle grinder! I may not get them perfect. But at this speed, so what if they are a few thousands out!


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#8 KC9KAS OFFLINE  

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Posted October 30, 2014 - 07:32 PM

A welding shop here in town used to cut agriculture tractor wheels and widen them for really wide tires.

The farmers said it was about 1/4 the cost of buying new wide wheels.


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#9 GTTinkerer OFFLINE  

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Posted October 31, 2014 - 07:18 AM

I have done several sets with good results.  I weld them inside and out, light on the outside to keep grinding to a minimum and then a heavy bead on the inside since I don't use tubes with them.  11" rim width for 26X12-12 tires look pretty good to me.  I use an ocy-acetylene torch setting on a block of wood the right height and then spin the rim to do the cutting but it would be a lot easier if the wife would OK a plasma cutter.


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#10 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted October 31, 2014 - 07:24 AM

I have done several sets with good results.  I weld them inside and out, light on the outside to keep grinding to a minimum and then a heavy bead on the inside since I don't use tubes with them.  11" rim width for 26X12-12 tires look pretty good to me.  I use an ocy-acetylene torch setting on a block of wood the right height and then spin the rim to do the cutting but it would be a lot easier if the wife would OK a plasma cutter.

That's about what I do on welding. Crank the little Hobart 140 to 4 heat and about 40 on speed. Not so worried about the inside looks, but outside needs smoothed for sure. And, by welding both sides, I hope to not need tubes. Just have to see. Cold air moving in, so won't get much done morning wise!



#11 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted October 31, 2014 - 08:08 AM

Kenny, bolt the rims to a jacked up GT, then start it & let the rim turn a slow, but not real slow speed.  You can get a good line this way if you have your grip good & steady.  Just takes 30 seconds or so with an .045 cutting wheel.


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#12 Jlaws OFFLINE  

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Posted October 31, 2014 - 11:49 AM

Olcowhand . that's how I mark my cut lines , I jack up one side of a tractor , mount the rim and turn it slowly by hand with a sharpy marker clamped in a spare vice I have mounted to a 2X8 . It makes for a nice straight line .

 

I leave it mounted to the tractor and cut mine with a sawsall with a new blade , and usually have my son slowly turn the wheel while I'm cutting .

 

I know of a fellow that turns and cuts his in a lathe , but I don't own one yet ....

 

When welding the two halves together its important to tack weld it in a few spots around the rim before laying the final bead so it doesn't move .

 

I usually just weld mine on the inside and if you lay a good bead all the way around they won't leak .

 

If you don't like the look of the seam on the outside you can always use body filler to fill in the seam .

 

I've done few pairs this way and haven't had to run tubes in any of them .


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#13 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted November 01, 2014 - 04:31 PM

Well, I got pics for you all! A bunch of pics! And I do not profess to be the worlds prettiest welder. But it holds!

 

First off, got the donor wheel ready to cut in two.

Image014.jpg

 

After about 5 mins. here's what it looked like.

Image015.jpg

 

Next was grinding out the center section spot welds. These were about 1/2" in diameter. Not a fun job.

Image016.jpg     Image017.jpg

Image018.jpg     Image019.jpg

Image020.jpg     Image021.jpg

 

I had to cut most of the old center out to get to the rest of the welds.

Image022.jpg     Image023.jpg

Image024.jpg

 

Next was getting the wheel ready to cut the cruddy part off of. The PO had wrapped numerous rounds of gray tape over the holes to keep the tubes in.

Image028.jpg     Image029.jpg

 

I noticed a spot in the outer bead area that needed straightened out before I cut it.

Image025.jpg     Image026.jpg

Image027.jpg

 

Here is how I marked the cut line. I wasn't up to removing wheel weights and wheels just to mark these.

Image030.jpg

 

I used a large clamp to hold the wheel while cutting.

Image031.jpg

 

The wheel is almost cut in two. Then, all through cutting.

Image032.jpg     Image033.jpg

 

Here's the wheel ready for welding back together.

Image034.jpg     Image035.jpg

 

I used the same large clamp to align the parts back together. Tacked in 3 places. Then welded the tire side up. Heat range 4 and 40 speed proved too much for the rusty wheel, so I dropped down to 3 and about 35.

Image036.jpg     Image037.jpg

Image038.jpg

 

After a little grinding to pretty things and paint, this wheel is ready for service!


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#14 dthomp17 ONLINE  

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Posted November 01, 2014 - 08:12 PM

Very nice job.  Thanks for all the pictures and explanation.


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#15 limebuzz ONLINE  

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Posted November 02, 2014 - 06:57 AM

Looks good Kenny.very well explained. 


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