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JOHN DEERE 140 Articulated build


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#46 michael.kitko OFFLINE  

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Posted March 01, 2016 - 09:43 AM

Can anyone enlighten me a bit? I have looked through both manuals for the Series 15 pump and the Deere Manual for the tractor for the pump and I have read Ducky's thread. So, if I am right, and please feel free to correct me if I am wrong, all I have to do is pull the charge pump and rotate it 180° so it is upside down. That would put the flat side it talks about in the Deere manual when installing the charge pump opposite the relief valve on the side of the pump. If I were to do this, it would allow me to run the pump in the opposite direction with the drive coming in from the back and exiting out the front and still drive the machine normally. Am I right, or am I missing something? I think this is how Ducky said he did it, or at least that is what it sounds like he did. This would save me money and time in not having to build a gear box.

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  • Alt Drive.jpg

Edited by michael.kitko, March 01, 2016 - 09:47 AM.


#47 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted March 01, 2016 - 12:14 PM

Yes, 180 turn of the charge pump housing does it (rotation change).  You needn't even pull the housing off.  Simply pull the bolts, rotate the pump, and replace the bolts and you're good to go.


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#48 diesel nut ONLINE  

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Posted March 01, 2016 - 01:04 PM

I'm not sure if the charge pump can be turned 180 and still have it work.  Had a Simplicity come into work once that had seals put in the hydro and between the guy that did it and the owner both working on it and using 2 different service manuals the pump got turned and it wouldn't drive or make the lift work.                                Stewart


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#49 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted March 01, 2016 - 01:15 PM

  Does the 140 have a Sundtrand 15U or "inline"? 15U I'm pretty sure. Either way, it should work.  I have a Sundstrand 15U out of a Simplicity Sunstar (same unit as under John Deere 430) in Hogzilla, and I turned the charge pump to run reverse rotation and it does fine.  


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#50 michael.kitko OFFLINE  

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Posted March 01, 2016 - 02:11 PM

Thank you. It is the 15U. I will read through your Hogzilla build thread sometime, I think I saw a good idea for the hydro control lever, seen as how this one on this machine is a piece of 1/16" steel welded to a bar and then drilled and tapped and welded to that shaft.

This machine is actually more of a mess than I originally thought.
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#51 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted March 01, 2016 - 08:41 PM

Just came to me........If I remember correctly, I did have to remove the charge pump housing on mine so I could grind a relief in the housing for the lift pressure port fitting.   


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#52 michael.kitko OFFLINE  

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Posted March 02, 2016 - 06:34 AM

Just came to me........If I remember correctly, I did have to remove the charge pump housing on mine so I could grind a relief in the housing for the lift pressure port fitting.

Are you talking about the flat on the side? Or is this an internal port in the housing?

#53 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted March 02, 2016 - 08:00 AM

Are you talking about the flat on the side? Or is this an internal port in the housing?

 

No, in this pic you will see where I added a black mark next to the pressure port above the charge pump area.  I just ground a slight relief so a socket could attach to the fitting if needed.  I don't think I went even 1/8"  into it.  You definitely don't want to go too deep or you'd get into the o-ring seal area.

 

15u.jpg


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#54 michael.kitko OFFLINE  

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Posted March 02, 2016 - 09:49 AM

The lightbulb has lit-up...now it makes sense. Thank you very much sir.

#55 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted March 02, 2016 - 11:04 AM

I just took a pic of a parts pump this morning that shows the slight depression in the pump housing for the pressure port fitting.

 

P_20160302_1048141.jpg


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#56 michael.kitko OFFLINE  

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Posted March 02, 2016 - 08:07 PM

So not much of an update, but I spun the axle around and got it centered in the jig again. Now the pump points the other way. This freed up loads of room and now the frame sits 6" lower with a little more room to go. I also got the two front hydraulic lines pulled, which were hitting on the hydro pump when I lowered it. Now, the new hang up, there is a zerc fitting on the pedal rockshaft that is directly above the pump. One option is to move the fitting and weld the hole over and put a new hole some where else. We'll see on this. Also, the dipstick for the hydro is coming right up in the middle of the engine bay. Do any of you guys know if the tube is threaded in to the hydro. Thought I would ask before I break something trying to remove it. I might also need to lengthen the engine bay to fit the new engine. Not sure on this yet.
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#57 michael.kitko OFFLINE  

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Posted March 04, 2016 - 05:36 PM

It was cold outside, so I worked on the engine for about fifteen minutes today, because found the ring was broke and can't go any further till I get a new set.

On a side note, I did a bit of tapping and drilling to fix the gear box on my little lathe so I can make some pieces for the steering.

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#58 michael.kitko OFFLINE  

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Posted March 12, 2016 - 07:26 PM

Well, got new rings for the engine in the mail this afternoon and I might get to that tomorrow. Also, spent the morning removing the clutch and brake pedals. I have grown to hate taper pins. One last thing I did today was finally got the axle and body at the height I like and a position that looks good. I then took some scrap 1/4" steel and started on the beginning of the frame brackets. One thing I am gonna have to figure out is how I am gonna hook the engine up to the driveshaft. I don't think a u-joint is going to make the angle, but now I think I am gonna have to make a gear drop box. Who knows, cross that bridge when it comes.

#59 michael.kitko OFFLINE  

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Posted April 22, 2016 - 05:35 PM

So, sorry for no update for awhile. I started on the engine again. Got the engine pistons in. Did a few tests to check for oil flow with the new oil pump. Installed that in the engine. Well, looked at the oil pan and was trying to figure out why they glopped that much goop on it, but now I know why. The oil pan did not fit with either oil pump. It was glued together. Now, I am to the point where I need a mill to fix this so that the oil pump can fit where the pan is in the way and to fix a corner of it, where it looks like it was dropped. I did find a mill and moved it to the basement. Just need to get a motor lined up for it to use it to fix the oil pan. Not too much more progress, because I have been busy building a trailer to move the mill and trying to appease the wife with building a sprayer. Like I said, long road on this one.



#60 michael.kitko OFFLINE  

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Posted August 05, 2016 - 04:42 PM

Mill is working now and I got the piece cut out of the oil pan. Now it fits where the oil pump dangles down. I am looking into a way to make the oil pump work from the center like they do on the old walk behinds that had Wisconsin TJDs in them. Anyways, I also went and got some steel, so I can make the frame for the front and rear axles and lower the other frame on. I plan on getting the frame together this weekend. At least mostly together.

Mike "Squirrelly" Kitko
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