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JOHN DEERE 140 Articulated build


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#31 michael.kitko OFFLINE  

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Posted January 27, 2016 - 08:49 PM

Today, started giving the motor a clean-up and gave the crankcase a coat of paint. Not quite sure how mice can shove some of the things that they did in the cooling fins like they did. I am quite impressed. I am waiting on the gasket set to show up and new rod bearings. I think the cylinders and pistons are new and have very little run time, but I have not given them a measure yet. Will do that when I get to bolting the cylinder block back onto the case. I really should start posting pictures.


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#32 bryan 110 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 30, 2016 - 01:13 PM

Use case rear ends and make your tracks around them that's what I would do

#33 michael.kitko OFFLINE  

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Posted February 01, 2016 - 08:32 PM

Well, got the engine crankcase painted and cylinder block painted. Got the cylinder bores measured and surprisingly, I think I lucked out. I measured them at 3.269 all over. I thought it was bored and honed, just wasn't sure till that measurement. I do think I found a stamp on the cylinder block that said 020. I also found a...what looks like a 020 on the top of the pistons. Started to have issues with the magneto not having its bolt holes lined up, but after playing with it for a while I realised the accessory plate was bent. Oh, by the way the magneto is good. I tested it by accident with my hand...it did zap the crap out of me...so I guess that was good...

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Edited by michael.kitko, February 01, 2016 - 08:33 PM.

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#34 michael.kitko OFFLINE  

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Posted February 04, 2016 - 10:50 PM

Got the crank installed today with the new rear seal. Had to readjust all the rear shims and I think i now have end play at the proper spec. Also got the cylinder block torqued down and the tappets adjusted.

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#35 michael.kitko OFFLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2016 - 02:54 PM

Today and yesterday was a semi-productive day. Got the rear axle pulled and up and semi-lined up with where I want it. I also built a jig out of wood to help align it and work on the supporting frame. Here is some pictures.

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#36 michael.kitko OFFLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2016 - 03:07 PM

Was trying to type that on the phone, but just got fed up with it. Just wanted to get the pictures posted. As far as where the axles are, I do figure I will have to space the axles out a little more, but only time will tell, especially after I get the frame lifted in place. My hope is to get that done tomorrow. The tires are for now, just for sizing. I don't know if those will be kept or not, but it looks like they might look right in the end, especially if I can find four more.

 

So, question for anyone interested, what do you guys think the model number should be? It is going to be modeled after a John Deere 7520 or 7020, and it was a 140 to start. I was think 7140, but that just doesn't sound right, or I don't think so. Does anyone know how Deere did their model numbers back then?


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#37 Cat385B ONLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2016 - 06:42 PM

I would skip the 7140, that is close to the current modeling #'s.


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#38 Leonard VanCamp OFFLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2016 - 07:41 PM

The multi cylinder JD's started out as the 10 series, 1010, 2010, 3010, etc. Then they went to the 20 series, 1020, 2020, 3020, etc. The 4wd tractors were the 8010(refurbished as 8020), 7020 and 7520. You could go with the regular 7020 or 7520 numbers or do something like 2X140 or 4X140.
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#39 michael.kitko OFFLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2016 - 08:38 PM

The multi cylinder JD's started out as the 10 series, 1010, 2010, 3010, etc. Then they went to the 20 series, 1020, 2020, 3020, etc. The 4wd tractors were the 8010(refurbished as 8020), 7020 and 7520. You could go with the regular 7020 or 7520 numbers or do something like 2X140 or 4X140.

Let's say, I was thinking something along the lines of what would Deere have called this if they made it back then. They made the 110, 120, and the 140. Maybe they might have called this the 160. I know it was kinda based off engine power, but not really, which I am trying to shove a 16 HP Wisconsin twin in there. The 7020 and 7520 are both inspirations for this build and there is one with out a cab that is just amazing looking, which is the look I am after. I don't think I could just steal that name, even though they are what I am after for looks wise. On a side note, I have plenty of time to get a name picked.

 

On a technical note, does anyone know if a 29" tire is safe to run on that axle. That is what is currently on there in those pictures. I know they are kind of a mash up between the DANA 30 and DANA 27 and those can run a 35" and 33" tire max. Just wondering.



#40 Cat385B ONLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2016 - 08:58 PM

Don Campbell runs those on a bunch of his builds, you could pop into his build thread and ask if he's ever had issues.
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#41 Leonard VanCamp OFFLINE  

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Posted February 29, 2016 - 01:12 AM

The JD four wheel drive without a cab would be the 8010 and 8020, later on there was a cab for the 8020. If your going in the lawn and garden line it would be in the one hundred series, so maybe make it a 164(160 plus 4wd)or 4160.
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#42 michael.kitko OFFLINE  

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Posted February 29, 2016 - 07:58 AM

I like the 164 idea. That is a good one. Here is that photo I was talking about.
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#43 michael.kitko OFFLINE  

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Posted February 29, 2016 - 06:29 PM

So, today I got the shop crane out and did some lifting it into place in the holding jig. The way it is looking right now, I might have to add some distance to the frame rails to fit the engine in, although a different engine could quite possibly be in order. From these pictures, it kinda looks weird and out of proportion, although there is another 4 1/2" to lower it. I don't know if that will bring it into the right proportions. I am sure if I lower it too much, the charge pump is going to be in the way. Oh, also started tearing out stuff that was rusted or just not useful. It was fascinating to find something like a fire occurred and some cool welded on brackets and other rigged stuff that makes me wonder. Anyways, I am off to do some research on possibly flipping the charge pump so I can turn the axle around or looking for a new engine.

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#44 michael.kitko OFFLINE  

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Posted February 29, 2016 - 08:29 PM

Thought of this just minutes ago, there is also the option of building a gear drop box to reverse rotation. Then I can just mount the axle backwards and keep it together in the original configuration without having to reinvent the wheel. Now I just have to find a set of gears. Here is a sketch of the layout.

 

 

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  • Drivetrain Draft.jpg

Edited by michael.kitko, February 29, 2016 - 08:31 PM.

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#45 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted February 29, 2016 - 10:36 PM

Take a look at how member "Ducky" built his gearbox to do what you are trying to do here in this thread,

 

http://gardentractor...1855-to-a-4855/

 

I think if you lower the chassis the 4" you have, it will help the overall looks of the build. I like what I am seeing and will continue to follow along. Good luck!!


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