Although I need to free the rusted up ignition switch on the Suburban 12 that I just hauled in to see if it is a runner or close,first things first,it needed some major cleaning. So today I pulled the engine tin and went to work with the pressure washer. The mice have checked all the insulation off of part of the plug wire and I am wondering if they done any damage behind the flywheel. I think I will check or spark before pulling the flywheel.
Major Mess Nesting In The Suburban 12
Posted October 23, 2014 - 10:26 PM
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Posted October 24, 2014 - 12:01 AM
Hate them mices to pieces,looks like they were having a good old time in there.
NOTE be careful cleaning that mess outta there,we had a customer that got a barn find classic car and was blowing out years of crap like that and got a lung infection,thought it was a bad cold and took a pass on seeing a doctor and when he wound up in the e/r it was to late,he died two days later.
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Posted October 24, 2014 - 12:04 AM
I had one not quite that bad, used heat shrink tubing and silicone.
Slid tubing on, filled with silicone until it came out other end, then tried to center and put heat to it.after it had cured a day, I put another layer of shrink over it. Seems to be holding fine
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Posted October 24, 2014 - 05:46 AM
Here's just one more way to seal/insulate those coil wires , High Voltage Electric tape from 3M , I used this to repair the high voltage lead for an old TV . That's Bill for the reminder of the mice poo ,
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Posted October 24, 2014 - 08:23 AM
I just picked up a Simpson's Supremacy 15 with a Clinton B700 series engine. It had a similar problem.
Edited by New.Canadian.DB.Owner, October 24, 2014 - 08:23 AM.
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Posted October 24, 2014 - 10:54 AM
I just hope they didn't ruin the solid state ignition. If they did,it could put a stop to me using this engine,at least for now.
Posted October 24, 2014 - 01:31 PM
Had same issue, BUT, with two little guys still hiding in it too. They ran off before I could get them! Mice pee is like an acid and stinky too. Luckily I had a spare engine that came with that had good ignition parts. There is a way to open and repair these with car parts. Fella has site online to see how, and also will fix yours. I don't have that link now, maybe a Google search or other guys here know? Finding Used is hard and expensive, I found out.
I keep hearing about the mouse junk issues when I was doing old cars and trucks. Never had problems, but might have been just lucky, I DID alot of blowing and hosing out of old rigs to clean up mice. They like Glove boxes and seats best!
Posted October 25, 2014 - 06:52 AM
Are you sure that is an SSI module, it doesn't look like one. That looks like the early magneto ignition.
The engine tins usually had it stated "Solid state ignition" also, don't see that on yours.
Looks like it might be a decent tractor once cleaned up.... of course I am biased
The Kohler on the Snapper (PK) I bought over the summer has to come out, the flywheel tins are packed solid, even has a couple nut hauls lying in there. Figures my luck, flywheel is up against firewall so motor has to be pulled.
Edited by TAHOE, October 25, 2014 - 06:53 AM.
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Posted October 25, 2014 - 07:27 AM
Completely different setup under the flywheel, less common, sometimes cheaper on eBay.
This engine is not easily changeable to automotive style as it doesn't have any pins to trigger.
Posted October 25, 2014 - 10:43 AM
GL I had the same experience. When I was first checking this tractor over a mouse jumped out and ran away. Great now I'm importing more mice,as if I don't have enough around here already. TAHOE it's a solid state unit. I just didn't get a good picture,it states it on the engine tin also. You are right,it will by a good tractor once the bugs are worked out.I am not as biased,I haul in any and all brands and I have for over 15 years. Now,don't get me wrong,I have favorite brands and models. With that said Sears Surburbans and Customs have became favorites of mine over the years. The steering effort is light and the steering stays tighter then most old tractors for the most part it seems. ( Better than old most Wheel Horse tractors on average IMHO and Wheel Horses are a favorite of mine.),The frames are them are as strong as about any old GT,and stronger some. These old Sears when they are running right run steer and drive so nice and have such a solid feel that they are just plain fun to use.The only place Sears dropped the ball (IMHO) not offering hydraulic lift. ( I know they offered electric lift.) MH,the ignition is the only bad spot on these engines. I am hoping the ignition is still good because like you said, these aren't easy to convert to a different setup and parts aren't easy to come by or cheap. I could do a engine swap but I would just as soon keep the tractor original. Once I go get a ignition switch I will know more.
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