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Building A Puller


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#16 Dieselcubmike OFFLINE  

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Posted November 12, 2014 - 09:08 PM

I hope you plan to beef your rear end up or its gonna a short drive lol


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#17 DaveBb OFFLINE  

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Posted November 13, 2014 - 09:02 AM

Maybe replace the carrier for a heavy duty OEM or weld up the spider gears this removes alot of side stress on the carrier. I might need to fool with gearing being that the kubota peaks at 1700 rmp vs the kohler 2600.


Edited by Saxist, November 13, 2014 - 09:13 AM.

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#18 Dieselcubmike OFFLINE  

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Posted November 13, 2014 - 07:57 PM

What im saying is you need a heavier carrier. Either a 1" inch fine spline or dodge dart carrier. I pull diesel garden tractors I know these things and I can promise you that a stock cub carrier can not and will not hold up to the torque that a diesel puts out unless its the fine spline out of a super cub or a dodge dart. I prefer the dart carrier setup from Midwest super cub. And im sure that Kubota has more rpms than that depending on where the throttle stop is located at.


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#19 skyrydr2 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 14, 2014 - 06:27 AM

That Kubota will screw easily to 4 grand and we are running a box stock Kohler v-twin at 6200 rpm ( has no governor) ! We vaporized the stock diff carrier with out much effort so I would be spending attention on the transmission area!! As for shafting, stainless would be my last choice!! I would rather use 4140 or 1045 or even 523000( I might not have this number correct but it is wicked stuff for shafting) as stainless is softer and sucks to machine in comparison to the aft fore mentioned materials.
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#20 DaveBb OFFLINE  

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Posted November 14, 2014 - 10:54 AM

Ok lol Ok I get the point and am happy to learn from others.  I ordered a fine spline carrier with 1 inch axles from local cub dealer. He used the part numbers from a cub 782. Was thinking of adding a turbo but not sure yet.


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#21 Dieselcubmike OFFLINE  

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Posted November 14, 2014 - 09:58 PM

As Keith stated it's important to have a good rear end. There's a diesel page on Facebook with lots of questions and answers you should check out.
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#22 Chris11 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 15, 2014 - 08:30 AM

I have broken every Diff you can put in one. I have the 30 mm stepped axles fine spline. with the bigger tubes , a 2 piece cub cadet diff. I have broken off the casting where the bearing press's on. So I machined the back side of the diff smooth and machined up a cover that fits the back side out of billet steel and I can put a bigger bearing on. I haven't had any problems with that set up.

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#23 Chris11 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 15, 2014 - 08:36 AM

heres a better picture of what I did

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#24 JBRamsey ONLINE  

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Posted November 15, 2014 - 09:40 AM

I'm going to go back to the discussion on kingpin angles and Ackerman. The king pin inclination is not related to Ackerman. King pins are angled, known as caster, to allow the steering to self return to center. Ackerman is how the steer wheels line up with the drive axle in a turn. This affects handling and tire wear. Since you're not building a high speed street rod, it's not really an issue. And like others have stated, during a pull your weight is going to transfer to your drive. Not to sound like a wisea, but your maximum transfer occurs when your steer axle clears the ground. Have fun with your tractor and good luck.
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#25 DaveBb OFFLINE  

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Posted November 27, 2014 - 05:47 PM

I ended up getting diff and axles from a 1606 it should be good for the 25 hp I will be running.  Added a couple angles to the lower frame for extra strenght. Finished welding in all the un needed holes  to give a smooth look and got it primed. 

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Edited by Saxist, November 27, 2014 - 05:52 PM.

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#26 DaveBb OFFLINE  

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Posted November 28, 2014 - 11:39 AM

Lots of grinding and sanding weld spots then a shot of epoxy primer looks neat and clean. Will sand blast and prime the front axle today then move on to rebuilding the diff.

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Edited by Saxist, November 28, 2014 - 11:41 AM.

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#27 AfterShock95 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 28, 2014 - 11:47 AM

I have never seen a diesel run up to 4000 rpm I have seen them run up to 3100 rpm for a few sec before it came apart a diesel should be making top power around 1800 rpm and be glad you upgraded the carrier it wouldn't have lasted under the load of the motor
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#28 DaveBb OFFLINE  

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Posted November 28, 2014 - 11:52 AM

Small Kubota Diesels are not your normal beast. Most of them are set at 3200 rpm from the factory. Its not much of a jump to 4k


Edited by Saxist, November 28, 2014 - 11:53 AM.

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#29 AfterShock95 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 28, 2014 - 11:59 AM

I was not calling you out on this just my experiance with diesel motors I myself have never ran a kubota I was just throwing in my 2 cents . I do like the way he fliped the front axel and stretched the old girl out
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#30 1978murray OFFLINE  

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Posted November 28, 2014 - 05:28 PM

yeah those Kubota engines can build a lot of rpm before they blow.  If you are going to do a turbo set up make sure you don't build more boost then your rods can handle.  Probably about 8-10 psi I bet Dieselcubmike would know for sure.  I'm a heavy equipment mechanic so I know little about these smaller diesels 


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