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Building A Puller


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#136 DaveBb OFFLINE  

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Posted June 29, 2015 - 06:19 AM

Mike at this time most of the tractors are slightly modified cubs a couple of them pull pretty good. I might just stick to the 905 and if things ramp up I can go to plan B and install the 1105.  My last pulls I was able to shut down the fans and altenator giving me a bit more power for the pull. At the end of the track I would turn the switch back on and at this time temp was around 210. It would drop back down to 190 pretty quick.


Edited by Saxist, June 29, 2015 - 06:20 AM.

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#137 Dieselcubmike OFFLINE  

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Posted June 29, 2015 - 07:14 PM

I run about 250 feet with a very heavy sled so i usually run about 210 or so i try to keep an eye on it. What does your egt run? Mines right around 1100 or so sometimes just a tad warmer on a hot and muggy day and how much i let it sit and warm up to temp before i hook. 


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#138 DaveBb OFFLINE  

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Posted June 30, 2015 - 06:40 PM

Kubota has been starting hard last few days and then today it ran like crap.. found one line to injectors has no fuel. Anyway pulled the injector pump and brought it in to a overhaul shop. I have two pulls coming up this month don't want any trouble. Will set me back another 500 most likely . Mike I don't have a EGT gage at the moment. Its on the to do list lol


Edited by Saxist, June 30, 2015 - 06:44 PM.

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#139 DaveBb OFFLINE  

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Posted July 01, 2015 - 05:18 AM

Got my injector pump back on this morning.. I also replaced the stock supply pump. So all previous issues are gone the engine runs like a top. I removed one .020mm  pump shim if I remember my kubota training course that would amount to 1.5 degree  advance of the timing and a bit more power  :-)   Ready for the next pull on the 11 th


Edited by Saxist, July 01, 2015 - 07:36 AM.

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#140 Dieselcubmike OFFLINE  

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Posted July 02, 2015 - 05:15 PM

Just keep in mind that your going to be adding more heat now with the timing. Try and get a egt gauge soon so you can keep an eye on it. Stock kubota pistons are good up til around 1500-1600 before they melt and acquire more problems. Your probably nowhere near that currently but you should be around 900-1000 degrees 


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#141 DaveBb OFFLINE  

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Posted July 03, 2015 - 12:36 PM

Made new brackets for my seat today and shifted it back almost 4 inches that way won't have the urge to hang off the back lol

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Edited by Saxist, July 03, 2015 - 12:36 PM.

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#142 DaveBb OFFLINE  

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Posted July 12, 2015 - 07:22 AM

Had my second pull yesterday. Cleaned house again :D  Pulled the boat until the brakes went on and just kept going lol.. so it looks like they are going to restrict me to the 1450 and unlimited classes. We are going to work on orga

nizing a club with proper guildlines. Make a diesel class as well. 


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#143 skyrydr2 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 12, 2015 - 12:06 PM

What they need to do is restrict tire tread ,and limit the lighter classes to a smaller tire size, that will level the playing field instantly. As does a mph limit.
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#144 Dieselcubmike OFFLINE  

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Posted July 14, 2015 - 06:37 PM

These are the rules we set up for our club. http://www.equalizer...ing.com/diesel1

I would recommend staying away from a mph limit. Especially in the modified classes due to horsepower ratings and speed. Do your best to start a diesel class see if you cant get more people to join. 


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#145 DaveBb OFFLINE  

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Posted July 19, 2015 - 01:50 PM

Pulled the diff this morning to do the overhaul before next pull. Bought a Vogel gear setup with new ratios. Looks like it is a lot more to it than I thought,  Got to do lots of grinding in housing to make room for the larger gears and new positioning. Also one shift fork needs to be modified or replaced.

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#146 DaveBb OFFLINE  

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Posted July 20, 2015 - 09:36 AM

So this morning I machined the housing so the bottom reverse gear clears the top shaft needle bearing boss. My buddy has a lathe so will stop there tonight and machine a pocket into the reverse idler so it will move back to mesh with the new positioning of bottom reverse gear.

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Edited by Saxist, July 20, 2015 - 09:37 AM.

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#147 DaveBb OFFLINE  

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Posted July 22, 2015 - 10:15 AM

Diff is on her way back together :-)  machining inside the housing is all done and I turned a pocket out of the reverse idler to shift it back to mesh with the new location of the bottom reverse gear. This is to give clearance for a neutral. Here is a before after pic...you can notice the beefier vogel gears. Also double bearing and heavy duty bearing cup.I had to put the carrier in and out three times to get the shims right.

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Edited by Saxist, July 22, 2015 - 10:58 AM.

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#148 DaveBb OFFLINE  

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Posted July 22, 2015 - 11:02 AM

I was not happy with the new injector pump on the last pull so had a local expert tweak it a bit. He also told me to loose the mechanical feed pump and put an high flow electric pump.

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#149 Dieselcubmike OFFLINE  

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Posted July 22, 2015 - 05:15 PM

Im assuming you had your pump and injectors reworked correct? That should give you about 80-90 cc's. Stock should be 20 if i remember correctly. Anytime you have pump work done you should always have a high psi pump installed. I have a summit racing black series pump on mine and i run about 20 pounds with it. My thing with doing pump work is, with all that fuel going in, having adequate air to help justify the air and fuel gaining even more power. I know mr hovid down in texas runs a N/A diesel with pump work and it seems to do okay with it. So it should work too. Cam work also will go a long ways.


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#150 DaveBb OFFLINE  

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Posted July 23, 2015 - 08:53 AM

Mike the fellow who did my pump said to replace the mechanical pump with electric with about 30psi and at least 30GPH. I have ordered  a pump from summit a few days back. Most likely the same one you are using.. 


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