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Building A Puller


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#1 DaveBb OFFLINE  

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Posted October 23, 2014 - 06:47 PM

Well I went to a pull a few weeks ago a decided to build one. Picked up a cub cadet 104. First order was strip it down. I will be putting a Kubota 905 into it. I started the frame mod's. Expand the wheel base to the max. I flipped the front axel over and built a new bracket to drop the front end and brought it forward ...Thats about it for the moment.. Any tips would be great..

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Edited by Saxist, October 23, 2014 - 07:06 PM.

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#2 Gtractor ONLINE  

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Posted October 23, 2014 - 07:13 PM

Welcome to GTTalk!   :wave:

 

 A couple of tips

104s were gear drive.  I'm guessing the hood was changed.  Your tractor must be a 105 with 10 horse and hydrostat drive..  Could also be a 125 if 12 horsepower engine.  Hydros use a lot of power so everyone uses gear drive tractors to pull.  You can still have a ton of fun but that drive system won't be competitive.

Also, you have drastically altered your steering geometry by turning the front axle upside down.  When pulling hard making the front end light, you will need both front tires working in unison. 

I'm not a puller,  just some things I noticed from your pictures. 

Best of luck! 

 

Here is a link filled with info on steering geometry

http://en.wikipedia....ermann_steering

 

In looking again I see your tractor IS gear drive.  I was seeing the chrome of the steering wheel spokes thinking it was a hydro lever.   :thumbs:


Edited by Gtractor, October 23, 2014 - 07:18 PM.

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#3 petrj6 ONLINE  

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Posted October 23, 2014 - 07:37 PM

   Not to sound like an idiot but how does flipping the axle over change the steering geometry?  I would assume that would stay the same one way or the other as long as you use the same place to hook your steering linkage. 

                                                                                                      Pete


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#4 LilysDad ONLINE  

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Posted October 23, 2014 - 08:35 PM

Notice that the kingpins don't go straight up and down through the axle. They angle a little. Well when you turn it over, they don't angle the same way.


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#5 superspeedex OFFLINE  

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Posted October 23, 2014 - 08:54 PM

Looks like a great build!!


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#6 skyrydr2 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2014 - 03:23 AM

Looking good!! You definitely got it lowered! All you guys that never pulled competitively , if your set up correctly the front wheels will be just off the ground so steering is way over rated LOL .
Are you going to use the flywheel side or the waterpump side to drive off of?
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#7 DaveBb OFFLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2014 - 11:57 AM

So first off the 104 is a 67 to 69 clutch driven narrow frame. I would never build a hydro puller just not impressed with the performance. Having new stainless steel drive shaft and clutch parts made presently. I will also swap the clutch for an aluminum disk and double strength spring.

 

Flipping the axle dropped the front 4.5 inches. The king pins are angled  in at the top but they are also bent  to compensate for the angle. As you can see in the pic with the axle flipped the wheels are still at 90 degres. The mod has not changed the stearing characteristic other than drop the front down.Trust me I checked it carefully before doing the changes.  When pulling most of the stearing is done with body shifting being that most of the time your riding on the wheely bars if you build it right :-)

 

I will need to use the water pump side to drive but I have a conversion kit that brings the rad hoses to the flywheel side. I purchased some 26 x 12 x12 carisle tires and Miller 12 x 12 mag rims.


Edited by Saxist, October 24, 2014 - 12:05 PM.

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#8 skyrydr2 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2014 - 01:02 PM

All you need to do is flip the diff to use the flywheel to drive it. ;-)

#9 DaveBb OFFLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2014 - 02:21 PM

So by flipping you mean install the ring gear to the opposite side? that would give me three reverse gears one forward? then i can drive it with the flywheel (turning opposite to the Kohler


Edited by Saxist, October 24, 2014 - 02:33 PM.

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#10 DaveBb OFFLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2014 - 03:11 PM

welded up all unnessecary holes in the frame and drilled new holes to move the diff further back. waiting on sand blaster tips to start stripping body panles ...

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#11 baerpath OFFLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2014 - 04:19 PM

Has a ton of info and the guy's are willing to help each other. And wheel steering is highly over rated. Just body lean for steering.

https://www.facebook...89337174455364/


Edited by baerpath, October 24, 2014 - 04:22 PM.

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#12 skyrydr2 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2014 - 05:06 PM

So by flipping you mean install the ring gear to the opposite side? that would give me three reverse gears one forward? then i can drive it with the flywheel (turning opposite to the Kohler


No it will work as normal driving it from the flywheel of theKubota.
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#13 DaveBb OFFLINE  

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Posted October 27, 2014 - 10:51 AM

No it will work as normal driving it from the flywheel of theKubota.

understood I think I should have explained it better :-)  wondering if welding the spider gears to make it a lock diff is a thing I should do? done it plenty of times for the drag strip


Edited by Saxist, October 27, 2014 - 10:52 AM.

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#14 skyrydr2 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 27, 2014 - 11:56 AM

I like to run them fresh and tight but not locked up. Way too hard to drive on a rough track.
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#15 DaveBb OFFLINE  

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Posted November 12, 2014 - 07:08 PM

Did some more work this week... motor mounts and clutch plate are done on the kubota. Hope to start sandblasting next week. Going with a 5 pin 6060 aluminum clutch and 304 stainless drive shaft.photo.JPG


Edited by Saxist, November 12, 2014 - 07:14 PM.

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