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Most People Would Have Scrapped This.


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#16 DougT ONLINE  

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Posted October 22, 2014 - 10:53 AM

The one that I saw had the crank through the front but still used the Briggs reduction assy. I think it can be rotated to line up with the hole. Is the crank attached to that one or does it come off and just a pin through the shaft? How about puttiing the bearing and seal numbers in the Mighty Mite thread for future reference?



#17 classic ONLINE  

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Posted October 22, 2014 - 11:26 AM

Doug, the handle is not pinned to the shaft and just slides off. I just checked, and there is no way to rotate the gear reduction assembly to make things line up. The bolt pattern only lines up one way with the arms and blower housing. The long Mighty Might hand crank would have to be relocated to make it work, and I don't see any other way around it.
I will surely list the bearing and seal numbers after the parts come in and I'm sure that they are the correct parts. I'm sure of the bearings, but some of the seals are questionable at this point. I'll be posting pics and info as the project progresses. Right now I'm still in the process of tearing down, cleaning, and parts gathering. If you have any questions, please ask, and I'll do what I can to answer them.
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#18 DougT ONLINE  

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Posted October 23, 2014 - 06:54 AM

Makes me wonder how they did it. Wish I would have looked closer. I know there was no way there would have been enough room to put the crank in behind the hood and crank it. That tractor used to be fairly local to me but I think it sold. I'll have to check it out and see where its at. Mine had a tin shroud ZZ with a crank stub bolted on the flywheel.


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#19 classic ONLINE  

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Posted October 23, 2014 - 10:53 AM

I would be interested in seeing how it was done,Doug. When I got the Mighty Mite years ago, It came with a Briggs model 23 on it. The flywheel nut has the adapter welded to it for the Mighty Might hand crank. Also, whoever installed the model 23 made a bracket that bolts to the back bearing plate for the twin disc clutch lever. After installing the Briggs ZZ, I'll have to fabricate this bracket. I have some pics to go by, but no measurements. It shouldn't be too hard to come up with something.

Edited by classic, October 23, 2014 - 10:54 AM.


#20 DougT ONLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2014 - 06:48 AM

I posted some pics of the bracket and yoke in the other thread. It looks like the bolt spacing is the same as the 23. I could trace the footprint and send it to you with the measurements for the legs if you need it.


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#21 classic ONLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2014 - 01:56 PM

I looked over the pics in the other thread and they will be very helpful, thanks! I can copy the footprint just by looking at the pics. The bearing plate bolt size and arrangement are different on the 23 and the ZZ. I can use the bracket that I have from a ZZ engine to get the correct bolt hole size and location then go from there. The top bracket is the crudely made up one that came on my Mighty Mite with the model 23. The other bracket came on a ZZ engine with a belt drive twin disc clutch.

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#22 classic ONLINE  

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Posted October 26, 2014 - 11:12 AM

For reference, here is a pic of an NOS Briggs ZZ crankshaft seal, Briggs part number 69740. It's a National seal, part number 50336. The current National part number for this seal is 450336 and is easy to find if you search this current number. This seal is the correct seal for the differential pinion shaft/housing on the Mighty mite, also.

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#23 trowel OFFLINE  

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Posted October 26, 2014 - 08:01 PM

Looking good Jim.


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#24 classic ONLINE  

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Posted October 26, 2014 - 09:54 PM

Thanks Trowel. I had to cut one of the front tires off one of the Mighty Mite front rims today. The rims are actually in great shape, but just look ugly. I'm rounding up the last of the bearings and seals at this point, and the ZZ will get an overhaul.

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Edited by classic, October 26, 2014 - 09:55 PM.


#25 classic ONLINE  

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Posted November 03, 2014 - 09:17 PM

Thanks Ben and Bruce. I decided to not give up on the coil and gave it another go. There was light powdery rust on the armature, but the insulation over the windings looks in great shape and it doesn't show any real water damage. I put the coil by the wood stove and let it warm up for a while in case there was any moisture in it. I reinstalled the coil and still only had intermittent spark. At this point, I was really starting to think it was shot and about to give up. One thing I thought might be a problem was the connector on the wire that goes from the coil to the points. Maybe it could be corroded where the wire is crimped in the connector? Yup, that's what it was! I pulled the wire out of the connector and there was some crusty white oxidation preventing full contact. I cleaned the wire and the connector and ended up with a bright blue spark that snapped when turning the engine over by hand. I installed the spark plug and the engine fired right up. I let the engine run for 10 minutes and no problems. I'll be removing the coil from this engine and put it back in the crusty ZZ after the rebuild.
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#26 classic ONLINE  

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Posted November 03, 2014 - 09:41 PM

The exhaust valve was stuck, but freed up with some penetrating oil and some vice grips. I'm replacing both valves while I'm at it, but you can see that the seat margins on the valves are narrow, and the valve seats are in pretty good shape. I should be able to lap the minor pitting out of the exhaust valve seat.

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#27 classic ONLINE  

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Posted November 08, 2014 - 11:19 PM

Just an update on this engine. I finished assembling the short block and all went well. Crankshaft end play is set at a tight .004. I honed the cylinder which didn't need much honing at all to clean up, and I lapped the valves in. I just have to install the valve springs tomorrow and set the valve lash. I installed an NOS piston and rings and NOS crankshaft seals. The ring end gap was .010 with the old and the new top compression ring. I used the original crankshaft, connecting rod, and wrist pin, since they were in great shape with hardly any wear. The original piston and rings are also in great shape, but I'll be using that piston in another ZZ. I changed out the condenser, but was able to use the original points. I put the flywheel on and turned it over by hand and I have great spark, so it won't take long to finish this up! Yea, I was sitting in the living room at the coffee table setting the point gap, HA!

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#28 Bill56 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 09, 2014 - 03:07 AM

Nice work! Thank you for the update. That's a great centerpiece for the coffee table too!!!
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#29 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted November 09, 2014 - 05:52 AM

I like when your project will fit on the coffee table. Hopefully the wife won't say too much about it. Great engine..
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#30 trowel OFFLINE  

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Posted November 09, 2014 - 07:31 AM

Looking great !, nice and clean, it will be popping soon.


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