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Mf14 Has Sundstrand Issue.


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#1 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted October 21, 2014 - 05:33 AM

About a month and a half ago, I picked up this rig. Had no motor.

 

DSCF2377.JPG DSCF2376.JPG

 

Since then, I've tinkered on it, an hour here and there. It had been repowered.

The engine mounting plate was wrong, and the drive shaft had been shortened.

I also had to relocate the oil drain plug off the bottom of the oil sump on the 16hp

Kohler K341 I am putting in.

 

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I got it fired up last night, but not getting any action out of the Sundstrand

transaxle. It's a 90-1155 LH. I notice that it had an old MF filter, so I changed that, making

sure to fill the canister with ATF. Filled the rear end with ATF. (it was down 2 quarts) I had found

earlier, that the oil level plug was loose, and the upper end of the suction line was also leaking.

 

I've poured about 3/4 of a quart of ATF into the pump via the aux return port, and raised the rear

of the tractor, so the suction line port on the reservoir was higher than the filter.

I'm not getting any action on the lift cylinder either.

 

I guess my first question is, should the LH on the charge pump be on top. It is possible

that was changed with previous repower.

 

 


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#2 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted October 21, 2014 - 07:50 AM

Pretty sure LF is correct as you determine rotation by looking at the shaft end, but I'll go check my old MF14 pump that has never been disturbed to be sure.


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#3 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted October 21, 2014 - 07:53 AM

Yep, LF is correct.  Good chance the charge pump i the problem.  Pull that LF/RH cover off & check the gyrotor set & the pin in the shaft that drives the inner rotor.  If the pin or gears are broken, there's your problem.


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#4 TUDOR OFFLINE  

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Posted October 21, 2014 - 12:08 PM

I hope that you're driving the hydro from the flywheel. Otherwise, the charge pump will be upside down and so will the hydro motor section.


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#5 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted October 21, 2014 - 01:01 PM

I hope that you're driving the hydro from the flywheel. Otherwise, the charge pump will be upside down and so will the hydro motor section.

 

 

Yes, I'm driving off the flywheel. Same as original, except with the K341 instead of K321.

I'm rounding up a pressure gauge, to get a reading before I tear the rear end out. I did have the

relief valve out. No shims there that I found, and it all looked Ok. (from my inexperienced eyes).

I've never had to tear into one of these rear ends, so I'm kinda looking forward to it.


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#6 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted October 21, 2014 - 01:30 PM

Will are there any bypass /check valves on that model. If it has a L -N_H transmission then it probably doesn't have the bypass feature. They have a habit of sticking in the bypass position.


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#7 101 senior OFFLINE  

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Posted October 21, 2014 - 03:34 PM

First are you using tranny fluid, is the 2-speed shifting arm in low or high, could it be air locked, do you need to change filter. Just a thought.


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#8 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted October 21, 2014 - 06:07 PM

Will are there any bypass /check valves on that model. If it has a L -N_H transmission then it probably doesn't have the bypass feature. They have a habit of sticking in the bypass position.

 

Brian, there is no bypass feature on this tranny, as there is on the one in the MF12H. Only the neutral position, and a big sticker

that says "Do Not Tow"

 

First are you using tranny fluid, is the 2-speed shifting arm in low or high, could it be air locked, do you need to change filter. Just a thought.

 

Yes, I've changed the filter and filled up with ATF. I tried in both Hi and Low range, several times.

 

This evening I put a pressure gauge on the charge pump. 000000.00000 pressure, so I took the cab, and rear fender

off, to get ready to remove the tranny. Then mother said I had to come home. Glad I did. Fresh perch, salad, and little

potatoes. Yum.

Should be able to get at it earlier tomorrow.


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#9 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted October 21, 2014 - 06:36 PM

Did you look inside the charge pump?  If it's the charge pump, it's simple as sin to fix or replace.  Pull the driveshaft, then the 4 charge pump bolts & pull the charge housing off.  All will be easy to see if there's something wrong there & may not need to pull any of the tranny.


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#10 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted October 21, 2014 - 06:44 PM

Thanks Dan, yes it would be easier to pull the drive shaft. That thought had crossed my mind, but

I was worried that I couldn't really explore the pump properly, with it mounted in the frame. But I will

give that a shot.



#11 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted October 21, 2014 - 06:54 PM

I do have a spare working complete trans/axle out of a MF14.


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#12 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted October 21, 2014 - 07:15 PM

I do have a spare working complete trans/axle out of a MF14.

 

 

Oh :love:

 

 

Lets see what's going on here first.

 

I guess I should find out before next weekend, right?


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#13 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted October 21, 2014 - 09:45 PM

I guess I should find out before next weekend, right?

Yes, please tell your boss you need to take tomorrow off to diagnose this situation. :poke:
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#14 TUDOR OFFLINE  

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Posted October 22, 2014 - 03:44 AM

Thanks Dan, yes it would be easier to pull the drive shaft. That thought had crossed my mind, but

I was worried that I couldn't really explore the pump properly, with it mounted in the frame. But I will

give that a shot.

You'll have the pump in hand to explore to your hearts content once you take the bolts out.There's not much to see on the hydro side once the pump has been removed. It sits on a flat machined surface with 2 quarter moon slots for the fluid to enter and leave.

 

The pin is a needle bearing 1/8" diameter and about 7/8" long. It's a slip fit in a cross drilled hole in the input shaft. Orient the shaft so the hole is horizontal when you put it back together.


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#15 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted October 22, 2014 - 07:19 PM

I got the charge pump off this aft, and immediately saw that the drive pin was broke in 3 pcs.

Upon closer examination, I also discovered that the outter gear of the Gerotor is badly worn

on the outer face, and the diameter.

 

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Are these parts still available anywhere?


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