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#1 Stihl Blazin OFFLINE  

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Posted October 17, 2014 - 01:04 AM

Hi all, Im new to this site and new to garden tractor pulling, I recently got a late 90's Tractor supply huskee 18hp briggs and stratton opposed twin I/C /Transaxle, for romping around the big yard in the snow and other fun shenanigans  it was a free tractor, BUT im personally interested in pulling. Sadly after doing the research on here  I've realized my "awesome 18hp tractor " is really a 18hp motor on a cheap chinese tin can frame, but I dont plan on competitive pulling just hooking logs up to it for laughs but still want something to be able to do it and not break so a couple of my questions are

 

 1.what is the difference of my belt driven transaxle to cub cadet clutch driven transaxels (mine has a clutch/break but theres a belt powering it)?

 

2.whats the max weight  limit this murray/huskee transaxle and frame pull up to before risking  any damage?

 

3. if this frame wont work will this engine easily bolt to a cub cadet frame and tranny?

 

thanks again everyone, sorry if the writing is sloppy got home late and have work early in the morning



#2 shorty ONLINE  

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Posted October 17, 2014 - 04:47 AM

Welcome to GTtalk!

 

I would guess that with a belt drive, tearing the belt might happen before a lot of damage to the axle. I am sure others will be along soon that know better than I do.



#3 petrj6 ONLINE  

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Posted October 17, 2014 - 04:53 AM

   If you are looking to get into any sort of pulling even for a laugh then you need to get into a gt and get out of the LT's.  You will wreck the rear end in any LT like your husky in no time flat if you get to working it hard.  If you have access to a cub then go for it!!  you will not be disappointed.  Most of the newer LT's have a cast aluminum rear differential that just does not take the abuse at all.

                                                                                                      Pete


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#4 jd.rasentrac OFFLINE  

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Posted October 17, 2014 - 05:59 AM

always full pull and welcome to GTT



#5 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted October 17, 2014 - 06:46 AM

Lawn Tractors like that aren't capable of long term pulling or heavy loads. Their tranny is just not able to put up with the extra.
This thread shows what will happen to an LT that has regular extra weight.
http://gardentractor...but/#entry18241

My suggestion, find a GT. Even a belt driven GT will have much, much more pull power than any LT out there.

#6 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted October 17, 2014 - 07:00 AM

Welcome fellow Ohioan!!!! 

 

You a chain saw man?

 

Your huskee is most likely a verticle motor so thinking about swapping into an older cub or the likes is out as they are all horizontal.

As stated and you have found out, you have a run of the mill lawn tractor, they aren't good for much more than a small lawn trailer, lawn sweeper or aerator. 

 

Where in Ohio are you? I know some friends who run a local pulling club in SW Ohio near Eaton/Dayton. No matter where you would go, if you wanted to actually get into pulling, you need to find the local pulling circuit and see what their rules are.

 

Alot of pullers are Cubs with shaft driven trannies, but there are many who set up old Sears suburbans that are belt driven and do very well. I know some guys out East that have pulled close to 5000#'s dead weight sled with their belt driven Sears.


Edited by TAHOE, October 17, 2014 - 07:00 AM.


#7 Stihl Blazin OFFLINE  

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Posted October 17, 2014 - 08:26 AM

Im 19 & from canal winchester ohio just below Columbus  and yes ima stihl guy ill post a pic of my stihl ms361 with 25inch bar its badass,the tractor it is a murray/huskee GT or well it at least says GT on it, lol so willl the belt break before other things (thatd sure be nice)? 

 

Thanks again everyone for your support I plan on being on this site with you cool guys for sometime now, I'll be back on tonight (EST) after work for with lots more questions 

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#8 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted October 17, 2014 - 08:57 AM

your bar is on upside down.... :poke:  :poke: :bigrofl:  

 

 

I need to bring a couple of my saws up to you, I have a '79 or '80 Stihl Boss 028 I think, hasn't ran in year, another small 10" bar stihl and a Homelite neither of those two run, I'm not so good with them. My old off the shelf at Lowes Poulan 250 is about worn out.

 

Yes, your Huskee is labeled as a GT, looks to have the bolt on rear wheels, that's an indication of a heavier GT. It's still not built like the ones of old, but can handle a little more than just a lawn tractor. Still for pulling though, not sure I would attempt it behind a sled.

Many will say the belt tractors aren't that good slip etc, but the rear end usually snaps before a belt will.

 

 



#9 HDWildBill OFFLINE  

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Posted October 17, 2014 - 09:00 AM

Welcome to GTT.  Looks like you are getting plenty of advice.  Good luck on your pulling.



#10 Stihl Blazin OFFLINE  

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Posted October 17, 2014 - 09:08 AM

thanks again, and just a note the bar is upside down for even leveling of the deterioration of the bar when gravity keeps the chain on the top of the bar down on it, it wears away this is why with pro bars when you flip them upside down they have a oil feed on the other side its meant to be this way lol 

 

how much do you guys acutally pull weight wise ?

 

and so is this engine and frame pretty poo for pulling purposes?



#11 richwoodrocket ONLINE  

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Posted October 17, 2014 - 10:35 AM

Welcome to the forum. Nice saws. ;)

#12 Stihl Blazin OFFLINE  

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Posted October 17, 2014 - 10:58 PM

So ive came to conclusion my tractor is a snow/mud romping,hillbilly wheelchair for the trails lol but I do want to build a 600-800 dollar pulling build so I wanted to ask acouple questions

 

*oh VERY IMPORTANT I dont acutally plan on putting this in any events so open to all mods as long as their safe for the engine and the operator 

 

What  cub cadets or deeres are shaft driven and in the 15-22hp range (of course please no suggestions of thousand dollar tractors Im a 19yr old on a budget haha bills to pay, 

 

Also how much would a shaft driven with that power stock be able to pull?



#13 Stihl Blazin OFFLINE  

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Posted October 17, 2014 - 11:07 PM

right just looked up whats case ih made and not mtd and only one model makes 17hp and the 682 but i thinks its hydro idk if not it sure would be nice because http://columbus.crai...699860775.html 

 

But if I did get a 12 or 14 hp model how easily can I get them to make 15-17hp?



#14 Chris11 ONLINE  

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Posted October 18, 2014 - 05:41 AM

The tractor you have is great for mowing the grass, The belt would last a while longer then the tran. It doesn't have any bearings in it . The case is the bearing. Also the axles are 3/4 shafts with a key way. A cub cadet trans axle is a heavy duty case diff carrier like a car . steel casting with bearings. There isn't a belt. They have a drive shaft to a real clutch disc. The tractor I have has pulled just under 7000 lbs. on concrete. I wouldn't try to much with that.

#15 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted October 18, 2014 - 09:22 AM

Here, take a gander at this link

 

http://www.xtrememot...det_History.htm

 

 

Don't get hung up on a certain Horsepower or how much weight you can pull. I knew a guy who used a 12 Hp belt driven Sears Suburban for moving non running vehicles around his garage. He has one pic pulling a 9000# ambulance up a grade into his garage. 

There are a lot of factors for how much weight something can pull, power, gearing, traction. 

If you are a decent mechanic, it's not hard to swap in a larger motor for a lower HP one. Normally those tractors have decent axles and can handle the extra power. 

IF you look around CL, etc, you maybe able to find a decent already built puller for a cheap amount.....if you really want to get into it. 

Look for puller associations in your area too they can give you pointers and you may find one of them have a tractor for sale.

 

If you want a good worker tractor, hydro is the way to go for ease of use. 






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