Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

Amp Meter Hook Up, Help


  • Please log in to reply
20 replies to this topic

#1 tweidman OFFLINE  

tweidman

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 5
  • 250 Thanks
  • 797 posts
  • Location: Ackermanville,Pa

Posted October 15, 2014 - 09:58 AM

I am trying to hook up my newly installed amp meter on my MF1020. You would think this would be  simple task, however, I can't seem to make it work.

My confusion comes from the two wire alternator.

 

The way I have it wired now is: one wire connected to the starter solenoid (at the battery feed side) and the other wire connected to either lead from the alternator. Neither side gives me any reading at the gauge.

 Not only that, when I hook up the amp meter to either lead from the alternator, the "charge: warning light goes out,  when the tractor is not running and the key is on.

 How should I wire this thing to get a proper reading?

Thanks for any help.



#2 Auburn David OFFLINE  

Auburn David
  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 61865
  • 2,754 Thanks
  • 1,962 posts
  • Location: Alabama

Posted October 15, 2014 - 10:18 AM

2lk2qa1.jpg


  • Alc and HDWildBill have said thanks

#3 olcowhand ONLINE  

olcowhand

    Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Sponsor
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 20
  • 35,657 Thanks
  • 29,842 posts
  • Location: South Central Kentucky

Posted October 15, 2014 - 10:35 AM

If I'm remembering right, these Massey's have a "Dynamo" (stator), which puts out AC on each wire just like a Kohler or Onan.  You have to find the voltage regulator rectifier & pick up off the battery lead from it.


  • tweidman said thank you

#4 TAHOE OFFLINE  

TAHOE
  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 24522
  • 6,504 Thanks
  • 4,955 posts
  • Location: "Hamiltucky" Ohio

Posted October 15, 2014 - 11:12 AM

If Daniel is correct, yo will need a regulator with AC/B+/AC  terminals. The two wires go from alternator to the AC terminals, then a wire goes from the B+ to one side of amp guage then the other goes to battery if I remember. I would have to look at my tractor at home to make sure, it may go through ignition first then to meter then battery.

 

I use an Onan 20 amp cheapo regulator off Evilbay on my Sears, works great.



#5 olcowhand ONLINE  

olcowhand

    Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Sponsor
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 20
  • 35,657 Thanks
  • 29,842 posts
  • Location: South Central Kentucky

Posted October 15, 2014 - 11:26 AM

This regulator likely has more than 3 wires.  I never had to even look at mine when I had the 1010, but the parts book pic shows a long flat connector, similar to what is used on the John Deere 330 diesel.  I would think one could unplug the regulator, then test to see which carries 12VDC, but there could be more than one, as one could be a voltage sensor wire.


  • tweidman said thank you

#6 Auburn David OFFLINE  

Auburn David
  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 61865
  • 2,754 Thanks
  • 1,962 posts
  • Location: Alabama

Posted October 15, 2014 - 11:45 AM

I always just put it in series with the battery/charge wire on the solenoid with mine  ..cars and tractors.



#7 tweidman OFFLINE  

tweidman

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 5
  • 250 Thanks
  • 797 posts
  • Location: Ackermanville,Pa

Posted October 15, 2014 - 12:04 PM

This regulator likely has more than 3 wires.  I never had to even look at mine when I had the 1010, but the parts book pic shows a long flat connector, similar to what is used on the John Deere 330 diesel.  I would think one could unplug the regulator, then test to see which carries 12VDC, but there could be more than one, as one could be a voltage sensor wire.

 

Yes, the regulator has a connector with at least 5 wires if I remember correctly. It's up high on the fir wall, so easy to get to, I will unplug it tonight and check for 12v.


Edited by tweidman, October 15, 2014 - 12:05 PM.


#8 tweidman OFFLINE  

tweidman

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 5
  • 250 Thanks
  • 797 posts
  • Location: Ackermanville,Pa

Posted October 15, 2014 - 12:07 PM

2lk2qa1.jpg

That diagram doesn't work for mine, The alternator has two wires, not one.



#9 tweidman OFFLINE  

tweidman

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 5
  • 250 Thanks
  • 797 posts
  • Location: Ackermanville,Pa

Posted October 15, 2014 - 12:16 PM

I guess the system works like this? So would I hook it to "A" or "A1"?

 

http://mmoc.org.uk/m...1397063109_1899

Attached Thumbnails

  • amp.jpg


#10 Auburn David OFFLINE  

Auburn David
  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 61865
  • 2,754 Thanks
  • 1,962 posts
  • Location: Alabama

Posted October 15, 2014 - 01:16 PM

A1(in series with)


  • HDWildBill said thank you

#11 HDWildBill OFFLINE  

HDWildBill

    Freedom is not Free. Thank those in uniform for your freedom.

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 6354
  • 8,712 Thanks
  • 8,564 posts
  • Location: Ga

Posted October 15, 2014 - 02:12 PM

A1(in series with)

I agree.


  • Auburn David said thank you

#12 Alc ONLINE  

Alc

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1094
  • 5,460 Thanks
  • 6,630 posts
  • Location: Bangor Pa

Posted October 15, 2014 - 05:03 PM

I must not understand ,I would have thought  "A" ?



#13 Auburn David OFFLINE  

Auburn David
  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 61865
  • 2,754 Thanks
  • 1,962 posts
  • Location: Alabama

Posted October 15, 2014 - 06:45 PM

I must not understand ,I would have thought  "A" ?

 A1 is switched with the key...only hot when the Dynamo is producing power....A is Battery voltage.


Edited by Auburn, October 15, 2014 - 06:45 PM.

  • Alc said thank you

#14 GTTinkerer OFFLINE  

GTTinkerer

    GT Tinkerer

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1564
  • 1,153 Thanks
  • 1,326 posts
  • Location: Mancelona, MI

Posted October 15, 2014 - 07:00 PM

You could also use a "battery level" gauge.  I had a Cub Cadet 169 that fried three amp meters and went to the gauge and it has been working for several months.  All it needs is a connection to a hot wire when the key is on.  It will also show when the generator/alternator is charging the battery.


Edited by GTTinkerer, October 15, 2014 - 07:00 PM.

  • Auburn David said thank you

#15 Auburn David OFFLINE  

Auburn David
  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 61865
  • 2,754 Thanks
  • 1,962 posts
  • Location: Alabama

Posted October 15, 2014 - 07:11 PM

You could also use a "battery level" gauge.  I had a Cub Cadet 169 that fried three amp meters and went to the gauge and it has been working for several months.  All it needs is a connection to a hot wire when the key is on.  It will also show when the generator/alternator is charging the battery.

And that would go on A1 as well...would just be in parallel instead of series






Top