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G10 Engine Options


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#1 red79 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 11, 2014 - 07:44 PM

Hi guys,

I'm toying with the idea of getting an extra engine for my G10. The current Briggs, which is original to the tractor, runs well, but I'd still like to do a full rebuild and get it running even better. My plan is to get another engine, rebuild it, then put the rebuilt engine in the tractor while I rebuild the original. This way, I can get experience rebuilding these engines on the spare prior to tackling the original. I've rebuilt transmissions, but never an engine, so I'd like the practice.

My question is what engines will bolt straight in (I'm not willing to do mods to make an engine fit)? Do I need an engine out of a G10 specifically? I have to imagine the bolting pattern is not that specific. Any input would be great.

#2 68guns OFFLINE  

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Posted October 12, 2014 - 10:59 AM

Wish I could help. I'm not even sure the Tecumseh powered G10 would drop straight in to a Briggs powered G10. Mine are both Tec powered. Someone with both models should be able to help you out. Give Old Buzzard a shout...he's got everything.

#3 red79 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 15, 2014 - 04:57 PM

Thanks for the response 68guns.  Looks like this may be a less common strategy than I had expected, but not to worry.  Maybe Old Buzzard will chime in, otherwise I'll give him a shout after this sits for a while.



#4 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted October 15, 2014 - 05:04 PM

You say the engine runs good already?

If it works good and dosen't smoke then there's no need to take everything apart......



#5 OldBuzzard ONLINE  

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Posted October 15, 2014 - 08:37 PM

I know that the Briggs powered G10 uses and 'adapter' between the engine and tubes so that it will bolt onto them.

 

That 'adapter' became a problem when I wanted to add the hydraulic lift attachment to my '77 G10. You can see what I had to do here:

http://gardentractor...hydraulic-lift/

 

It appears that they used the 'adapter' so that they didn't have to change the spacing of the engine mounting holes in the tubes. They could have used spacers between the engine and tubes just like they did with Wisconsin engines if they would have done that.

 

I'm going to guess that if the engine you get was from any other tube frame, that it will drop right in.



#6 red79 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 18, 2014 - 09:17 AM

Thanks for the replies. I did notice the adapter that Bolens used to mount the engine, but wasn't sure whether that was a universal thing to Bolens in general.  My G10 is the only one I have experience with.  And I sure hope, as you suspect OldBuzzard, that any tube frame engine would suffice.

 

 

You say the engine runs good already?

If it works good and dosen't smoke then there's no need to take everything apart......

 

The engine runs good to the extent that it's not knocking or sputtering or anything, but it does tend to want to run away a bit.  Regardless of throttle position, once it's warm, it will run fairly high rpms.  For now I just use the choke to bring her back where she needs to be, but this is less than ideal and I want to address it if necessary.  Is this fairly common with these older engines?  Does it sound like a carb issue?

 

The real reason that I'm debating a rebuild is because this tractor will only be a "worker" in the winter for snow plowing (she's in pretty good shape for the upcoming winter).  During the summer, it's purely a hobby, which buys me time to do sometimes unnecessary, but always fun mechanical activities. :thumbs:






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