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Mikes Ac 920 Diesel


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#16 mtoney OFFLINE  

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Posted October 09, 2014 - 09:22 PM

They are specific as they serve to seal the tip of the injector to the head. They are a crush washer, and thus need replaced anytime the injector is removed for service. Or atleast your supposed to.  I have reused them a couple times when I was unable to get replacements and didnt have any issues.  I am not sure what is available from Kohler, the parent company of Lombardini now.  I have had excellent luck going thru Sandy Lake Implement for parts for this engine. Mike


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#17 Talntedmrgreen OFFLINE  

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Posted October 10, 2014 - 08:23 AM

  I have the repair manual that covers small diesels including this one on order. 

 

Mike, I have the 10LD 400-2 repair manual uploaded here, if it helps you at all.

 

http://gardentractor...-repair-manual/


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#18 mtoney OFFLINE  

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Posted October 10, 2014 - 05:27 PM

I found that Josh, I have been refering to it for valve specs ect.  I put a deposit on a spring trip blade from Peppy Dan today at Portland.  I will pick it up at the Wapac show in about 3 weeks.  I was short funds as the tractor account got drained on the 920 already.  I think my boss is gonna spot me the funds to pick up a cab for it.  When we plow, we are out for hours, even all night and they dont want me getting frost bit feet or hands.  Atleast in the cab I can pipe some heat off the diesel back there.   Working on my horrible oil leak from the oil pressure switch.  Was leaking out the back of the unit, same thing the one on our forklift was doing when we first got it.  Should be able to get one of them from the local auto parts store.   Mike



#19 trowel OFFLINE  

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Posted October 10, 2014 - 07:35 PM

They are specific as they serve to seal the tip of the injector to the head. They are a crush washer, and thus need replaced anytime the injector is removed for service. Or atleast your supposed to.  I have reused them a couple times when I was unable to get replacements and didnt have any issues.  I am not sure what is available from Kohler, the parent company of Lombardini now.  I have had excellent luck going thru Sandy Lake Implement for parts for this engine. Mike

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#20 mtoney OFFLINE  

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Posted October 14, 2014 - 04:46 PM

I have the oil pressure switch plugged off right now, that stopped the massive oil leak.  The first try from Napa was a fail, wrong thread size.  Will try again in the morning.  I checked the blow by and there is little to none, as I see no visable blow by when running and a hot engine.  So, am I wrong to think its mostly a fouled injector or miss adjusted valve issue?   I forgot my feeler gauges at work, so no valve lash setting tonight.  Mike.  


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#21 trowel OFFLINE  

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Posted October 14, 2014 - 06:19 PM

9 times out of 10 it is the valves, out of spec or injector tips, the sealing washers also, if that does not solve it then work your way back to the injector pump itself, then the cam all the while checking the valve springs, lifters, push rods, in the end you will always end back at the cam shaft.



#22 mtoney OFFLINE  

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Posted October 14, 2014 - 06:32 PM

I had the pump out when I first got it, cam looked ok, didnt see any signs of issues visualy atleast.  My guess the bozo, who shouldnt go around messing with a diesel IMHO, has the valve lash set incorrectly.  I can see someone has been in there from the black RTV used for a gasket. I would think if the engine had issues with rings with lost temper, then I would have massive amounts of blow by or even raw oil up thru the breather tube. Of which I do not.  My guess is to much idling and not enough work has fouled the injector tips, maybe combined with valves out of adjustment.  I will hopefully have time to deal with that tomorrow after work. I would think if I had a cam issue, it would lack power or flat out not run.  She has plenty of power.  I do know the tractor sat unused for quite awhile and had some parts taken from it or lost over the years.  The previous owner, with my help, managed to get it running again, he fabricated a missing shroud that goes along the side of the cylinder jugs but not knowing diesels, he was scared of it and wanted my Cub Cadet instead. With the high cost of rings, I will exhaust other options before pulling it appart.     Mike


Edited by mtoney, October 14, 2014 - 06:42 PM.

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#23 trowel OFFLINE  

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Posted October 14, 2014 - 06:48 PM

Mike, it sounds like you are right on all counts, it's in capable hands now.

 

Looking forwards to your updates.



#24 mtoney OFFLINE  

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Posted October 14, 2014 - 06:51 PM

That she is.  If it takes an overhaul, thats what she will get, but probably not till spring.  She has sidewalk clearing duty this winter with the snow blade.  Boss wants me to get a cab so I wont get frost bit being out all night clearing walks if we get the winter they are calling for.  So I am looking for one.   Mike



#25 mtoney OFFLINE  

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Posted October 15, 2014 - 05:31 PM

Got into the rocker boxes this afternoon.  The front cylinder were both very tight, was unable to get the feeler gauge in, so I adjusted those.  The rear cylinder had only one of the valves out of adjustment.  I found the front injectors fuel return line banjo nut very loose.  So I removed it, cleaned any grime from the copper washers, pulled that injector and cleaned the carbon from the tip, took a very fine wire and made sure the tiny holes in tip were not clogged.  Did the same on the rear cylinder but messed up the copper sealing washers when reinstalling it.  So I am now trying to make new ones from copper sheeting I have.  If not its off to the hardware stores to see if they have any generic copper washers.  Nobody thats open has the OEM ones in stock.  Wont be able to check my usual source(Sandy Lake Imp) till tomorrow.  The gentleman at the dealer in Cali suggested making them or that some hardware stores carry copper washers.   Mike



#26 mtoney OFFLINE  

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Posted October 15, 2014 - 06:26 PM

Update.....my pair of homemade copper washers worked!  They sealed up perfectly.  That being said, with that front banjo loose, I wasnt loosing any diesel fuel when running, even at full power.  Is that a sign of an injector that is having issue?  Not having any fuel returning to the tank?  There might have been 2 or 3 rounds of thread keeping it from completely falling out of the injector.   Its tight now, both tips are cleaned of the carbon buildup.  Wasn't to awful like I expected. I rebuilt my mower deck at work today, waiting on an idler pulley before I can try to find some tall grass to cut for a hour or two. Mike



#27 mtoney OFFLINE  

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Posted October 17, 2014 - 07:56 PM

Further update. I installed the new oil pressure sender today at work.  I pulled the muffler and this time the exhaust manifold was dry, not soaking wet with diesel fuel.  So we might be getting some progress on clearing that up.  I have wanted to convert to an vertical exhaust, but at the same time didnt want to modify the factory muffler incase I want to go back.  I found that a flange mount for pipe would bolt to the manifold.  It also isnt warped like my mufflers flange is at the moment, so no more leaks there.  I used common threaded pipe, 1" dia, to turn the pipe upwards.  I bought a IH1 muffler from the local farm/fleet store and a rain cap. I made a brace out of some scrap steel we had laying around.  None of the original brackets were modified.    With this set up, at full power the exhaust is almost clean.  She is only smokey when cold and at less that full power.  I mowed for about 10 min with it at work, thats all the grass we have.  I am not totaly sold on the stack look personaly.  I have the original muffler cooking in the fire pit right now to burn out the oil and soot.  I may put it back on once I find someone to remachine the flange mating surface flat so it will seal.  

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Edited by mtoney, October 19, 2014 - 11:16 AM.





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