16 replies to this topic

[oddfirecj5]

i've got a thread on the other forum as well but might get better results here? long story short i'm doing a honda gx620 re-power in the 1886-05. i'm ready for wiring and need some help as i'm not too versed in small engine electrics. i have the honda control box hooked up now just to see what does what and to make sure it turned over and such. want to hook everything into the existing bolens wiring so i can use lights, ignition switch and charge battery and eliminate that honda control box. in the control box i have all the wires hooked up with the exception of the fuel cut solenoid because there is no wire in there for me to hook it to but it needs to be hooked up so it will get fuel to run.

 

   here is the honda diagram......

 

   here is the bolens diagram....

[nglauer]

Where did you get your honda? I may do a repower on one of my HT's someday. I would love to do a honda or some type of small diesel. I may even consider the new V-Twin harbor freight is now offering.... if it proves to do well. I assume it is a clone motor of some sort.

Wish I could help on the wiring, someone with better knowledge will probably post up soon.

Good luck!

Nick

[JohnWR]

Where did you get your honda? I may do a repower on one of my HT's someday. I would love to do a honda or some type of small diesel. I may even consider the new V-Twin harbor freight is now offering.... if it proves to do well. I assume it is a clone motor of some sort.

Wish I could help on the wiring, someone with better knowledge will probably post up soon.

Good luck!

Nick

 

The harbor freight motor is the clone to the engine the OP installed.

[nglauer]

I wasn't sure if the twin was a honda clone or kohler clone. For 600 it seemed like a reasonable option, especially with coupons etc.

[oddfirecj5]

thanks nick. i got the engine off craigslist that was in a wheel horse tractor. picked it up for $400 tractor and all. it all started when i thought the 18hp kohler was locked up but found out after buying that honda only the magnet fell off in the flywheel and wedged between the stator and flywheel. i had the engine pulled already so i was more than halfway there for a re-power. need to bring the exhaust to work and have it welded up before i run it.

[oddfirecj5]

here are some pictures of progress

[MyBolens1053]

What I would suggest is to use the combination switch that came with the Honda motor and place it in place of the Bolens ignition switch. Tap the light switch of the Bolens (from the "A" terminal) to LO of the Honda switch for lights power.

The fuel cut solenoid just needs to be grounded as it gets power through the switch (according to the wiring diagram).

 

Good luck.

[oddfirecj5]

unless i'm totaly blind but there is no "LO" wire coming from the switch. maybe i will take the switch off the box so i can look at the back of the switch for the lettering. the po of the engine really rigged up the electrical. there are wires coming from the carb area hooked to a momentary switch which has a pigtail going right to ground acting almost like a kill switch.

[MyBolens1053]

unless i'm totaly blind but there is no "LO" wire coming from the switch. maybe i will take the switch off the box so i can look at the back of the switch for the lettering. the po of the engine really rigged up the electrical. there are wires coming from the carb area hooked to a momentary switch which has a pigtail going right to ground acting almost like a kill switch.

 

Unless the wiring has been hacked the "LO" wire is the Bl / Y (Blue with Yellow stripe) and that goes to the fuel cut solenoid on the engine.

[oddfirecj5]

got the exhaust welded up today at work then bolted it on. tried starting it but no go. kept trying for a bit with choke on but no go. gave it a snort of ether and vrooooom off she went like a bat out of hell. come to find out i had the throttle and choke mixed up at the engine and after that was fixed it started right up. now mind you i'm just using the switch box that came with the engine just to see if everything still worked.

  it looks like the po took the ground or grounds from the cut solenoid (and or the coils) and brought them to a momentary switch and ran it to the body. the engine stops when you hit the momentary switch but the engine does not stop when you turn the ignition switch to off so have to figure that out. i really don't want a momentary switch to shut the engine off i would rather use the ignition switch. tomorrow i will pull that ignition switch out of the little box and see what there is for markings and see if i can find the "LO" because there is no wire on the switch to hook up to. i have the black with the yellow stripe from the solenoid but nothing to plug it into. there is also the oil alert inside the switch box but there are no wires coming from the oil sender.

[oddfirecj5]

tonight i got a little bored and worked on the tractor. took all the bolens wiring and coiled it up and ziptied it off to the side. installed the honda combination switch on the dash and extended all the wires to where they need to go. i was looking at the back of the switch and there is no "LO" on there. after everything was all ran i hooked up the battery and fired it up. with the engine off and the key in the on position none of the wires have 12 volts. i imagine that the white wire would have 12 volts but didn't check that one. looking like i'm going to run a switch for the fuel cut solenoid so it will turn off the fuel to the carb unless that white wire kills when the switch is off. 

[oddfirecj5]

had the tractor running the other day!!! but am having problems with exhaust. when it is at wide open throttle the exhaust pipe starts glowing red. i'm wondering if i have too big of a muffler on it and not having enough back pressure? i looked at the plugs but seem normal. i used a ford muffler from tractor supply and the thing is LOUD!!!! hardly any baffling in the muffler almost like a cherry bomb muffler. could this be what is causing the exhaust pipe to turn red or is it running lean? i'm also thinking about re-jetting the carb with larger jets to fatten it up a bit. i looked and there are no air/fuel screws except for the idle circuit.

Edited by oddfirecj5, October 25, 2014 - 05:43 PM.

[OldBuzzard]

A red hot muffler is generally an indication of a lean running engine.

 

I'd richen  it up a bit and see what happens.

Edited by OldBuzzard, October 25, 2014 - 08:07 PM.

[oddfirecj5]

 i put somewhat of a restriction at the end of the muffler hoping it would help with it running lean but no go.. looks like buying some jets is in the future. i'm almost ready to put the kohler back in seeing as it wasn't siezed. all it was is a magnet fell off and got wedged between the stator and flywheel. i really hate doing carb work.

[oddfirecj5]

all is well with the honda so long as it is not running at WOT. i ran it at WOT for 5-10 minutes and let the pipes get cherry red then without touching the throttle i shut it down. took the plugs out and they looked fine to me. i also brought them to my local small engine repair shop and he concurred that it is not running lean if anything one bank was just a tad rich otherwise normal. so back in went the plugs and plowed for an hour or two at about less than 3/4 throttle and it plowed the heavy snow with no problems and didn't even turn the pipe red.

  next test will be putting the 2-stage blower in the front and see how well the pto set-up works. not sure but i might get new belts and see if i might have to raise the engine a tad to take up some slack.