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Gt2000 Hydro Problems


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#1 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted October 03, 2014 - 12:38 PM

I'm starting to have some issues with the hydro in the GT2000. It is very slow to start moving when first going to mow. Then if you shut it down and restart it a short time later the same thing happens. Once the oil warms up it operates normally until restarting. Takes forever for the power steering and hydraulic lift to start working. I did change the filter but that didn't seem to do anything. 

Is there a pickup screen that needs to be cleaned?

Thanks for your help!

 

 



#2 KC9KAS ONLINE  

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Posted October 03, 2014 - 07:27 PM

I had the same problem with a 1974 AC 6040.

The paint inside the rear-end was flaking off and clogging a plastic "pre" filter. I had to disassebble this many, many times to clean it out. Then everything worked fine....until it clogged again!


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#3 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted October 03, 2014 - 10:27 PM

Thanks for your thoughts. I hope it's not that. May have to find an exploded diagram of the hydro and go from there.



#4 Cat385B ONLINE  

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Posted October 04, 2014 - 01:34 AM

Chris, I can't find anything about a screen, pre-filter, or any kind of secondary filter for the Eaton 11 on there. Is it possible that you're getting air into the pump? When you first start it, is the differential the first thing to start working? ie, closest to the pump? One issue I have read about (I lost an Eaton 11 to this) is the shaft from the pump to the differential getting locked up, ruining the seal around the input bearing. That's the air inlet, and it will eventually ruin the pump.

 

On yours, with the seat off, it should be just four bolts holding the hydro to the diff. Pull it and see if the shaft comes apart as it should?


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#5 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted October 04, 2014 - 04:48 AM

Chris, I can't find anything about a screen, pre-filter, or any kind of secondary filter for the Eaton 11 on there. Is it possible that you're getting air into the pump? When you first start it, is the differential the first thing to start working? ie, closest to the pump? One issue I have read about (I lost an Eaton 11 to this) is the shaft from the pump to the differential getting locked up, ruining the seal around the input bearing. That's the air inlet, and it will eventually ruin the pump.

 

On yours, with the seat off, it should be just four bolts holding the hydro to the diff. Pull it and see if the shaft comes apart as it should?

If you go into this, get some pics. I'd like to know more of how this all works!


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#6 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted October 04, 2014 - 11:16 AM

I just wrote out a long reply and lost the whole thing.  :smashing_pc: 

Any way it's probably something age related like o-rings or as Cat suggested. 

Anyone know of a good synthetic blend that could be used in these hydros ? I'm thinking that would really help with cold weather use. 



#7 Cat385B ONLINE  

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Posted October 04, 2014 - 12:53 PM

I've read 0w-20 could be used. (Synthetic)
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#8 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted October 04, 2014 - 01:52 PM

Hey Cat, your Avatar is very good. Can you tell I like cats?  :smilewink: 



#9 Cat385B ONLINE  

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Posted October 04, 2014 - 02:17 PM

Hey Cat, your Avatar is very good. Can you tell I like cats?  :smilewink: 


Someone who had a very rough time last winter gave me that for saying the s-word.
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#10 Canawler OFFLINE  

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Posted October 06, 2014 - 10:54 AM

...It is very slow to start moving when first going to mow. Then if you shut it down and restart it a short time later the same thing happens. Once the oil warms up it operates normally until restarting. Takes forever for the power steering and hydraulic lift to start working.

 

 

I had the same issues with my GTX-18 (basically the same tractor as your GT2000) except for it recurring quickly after a re-start.

Mine only started to show up about this time of year as the temperature started to drop a little and it would get progressively worse as it got colder.  I had to let the tractor warm up for a few minutes in the shed before it would move, then have steering, and finally the lift.  It was never really a problem but more of an annoyance.  The manual for these tractors calls for a normal weight tractor trans/hydraulic fluid and that's what I had in it for the last several years.  Late last winter I dumped the old fluid and replaced it with one of the low viscosity tractor fluids.  I've needed no hydraulic warm up time at all since the swap and the tractor was used in temps that would have definitely cause the issue previously.  I admit I haven't gotten to run it in any really cold temps so we'll see in the next few months.  I have no problems using the lower viscosity fluid in the summer as the lo-visc oil is a much higher quality product with a higher viscosity index.  It starts thinner but doesn't lose as much viscosity as the transmission reaches operating temperature so in effect, the normal and lo-visc are very close to the same viscosity when hot.  The lo-visc tractor oils are a little harder to find with the Low Viscosity Hy-Gard (John Deere J20D) being the most common.  Even though it's a Deere product, it can still be found at a fairly good price considering it's quality.


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#11 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted October 06, 2014 - 07:30 PM

Very helpful information Jim. Definitely sounds like what I need to do with the GT2000 that I have the loader on. I will look around and see whats available . I'm not too worried about the thinner oil as a loader tractor doesn't do any pulling to speak of and usually is only working for short periods at a time. 

Thanks for your reply!



#12 creekscout OFFLINE  

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Posted October 26, 2014 - 07:59 PM

I just picked up a gtx 18 a couple of months ago from a local repair shop. the previous owner had the hydro trans quit working for him so he traded it in, then the repair shop owner claimed he found a bad seal in it and replaced it and everything was fine. So I took a chance on it as it did run really well. one thing I did discover was after mowing for awhile and then shutting it off for a short period and then starting it back up the steering and lift would not work. so I would let it sit a while longer and then it would be fine, so I guess this is the same as you are experienceing. I now have had a hydraulic line blow apart where the repair shop apparently used a compression fitting to splice together 2 pieces of line and it came apart at the compression fitting so I lost almost all of the fluid and now am trying to decide what oil to put back in, I too would like to go synthetic so I am going to check with amsoil to see if they have an acceptable oil to use. Sorry for the long post, just wanted to share my experience, I will update what I decide to use and how it performs.



#13 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted October 26, 2014 - 09:34 PM

Certainly didn't think your post was overly long and appreciate your taking the time to reply. Mine will be parked until I can look at it this winter. It would be nice to know which seal was replaced but I would think it was the input shaft seal. Thanks again for posting.



#14 Canawler OFFLINE  

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Posted October 26, 2014 - 09:56 PM

I too would like to go synthetic so I am going to check with amsoil to see if they have an acceptable oil to use.


Yes, Amsoil does make a synthetic tractor hydraulic/transmission oil. Unfortunately I don't remember how much it takes. Capacity is not in the Troy-bilt manual and I was filling from a 5 gallon bucket.

#15 creekscout OFFLINE  

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Posted October 30, 2014 - 09:29 AM

Yes, Amsoil does make a synthetic tractor hydraulic/transmission oil. Unfortunately I don't remember how much it takes. Capacity is not in the Troy-bilt manual and I was filling from a 5 gallon bucket.

Canawler, could you tell me what oil filter you use for your hydro system and a rough quesstimate of the amount of oil to do a complete refill?






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