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Mf 1020 Service And Repair


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#16 tweidman OFFLINE  

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Posted October 30, 2014 - 08:54 AM

 Last night I went to take the loader off so I could clean a few more things up, but I remembered that the previous owner broke one of the two levers that allows the loader to be removed.

Fabrication time.

 I was able to get the broken part out. Then I searched through my bin of miscellaneous tractor hardware and came up with a pin of some sort that seemed to be the same diameter. I cut off one piece to make it into an "L" shape. Then I welded the "L" to the broken part. The lever arm was not long enough, so I welded the part I cut off to the end of the pin I found. I ended up using the entire pin I found to repair the broken part.

 To install it, I had to grind off the washer that was welded to the end of the old part. I then drilled a hole through that end so I could use a cotter or spring pin to hold the washer in place. This way I can remove it, if I have to for any reason. The other (factory) side is welded on with two washers.

I installed it and it works like a charm. I just have to get it painted up.

 

 Now I realized that I'm not sure how the loader is supposed to come all the way off. I guess you use the hydraulics to lower the arms to support the back of the loader?

 Anyone remove one of these?

 

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#17 tweidman OFFLINE  

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Posted November 03, 2014 - 01:11 PM

Now that the loader was out of the way I buffed the paint up a little. The red was very flat and dull.

The near fender is before, and the far fender is after. It's had to tell in the pictures.

(I removed the grab handles in order to buff the fender).

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Edited by tweidman, November 03, 2014 - 02:36 PM.

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#18 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted November 03, 2014 - 05:47 PM

Looks like an improvement! Wish my tractors had enough paint left on them to buff!



#19 tweidman OFFLINE  

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Posted November 19, 2014 - 03:28 PM

I noticed the tire stem on the one front tire looked funny. I had an extra one, so I decided to replace it. I pulled the valve core and after a few minutes, the stem disappeared. It turns out it had a tube in there. I ended up having to take the tire to a tire shop to get the bead broke loose, no matter how hard I tried, it wouldn't move for me.

I decided to put the stem in to see what happens.... and it holds air. Not sure why it had a tube in there?

 

I just ordered the hydraulic filter, fuel filter, fan belt, coolant and hydraulic fluid. I will pick up everything but the hydraulic filter tonight. I have to wait until next week for the hydraulic filter. Napa had one available, but at twice the price of my local battery and filter shop, so I can wait.


Edited by tweidman, November 19, 2014 - 03:29 PM.

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#20 tweidman OFFLINE  

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Posted December 03, 2014 - 12:40 PM

I replaced the fan belt the other day. I did not look that closely at the old one, I just figured it had been on there a while, so why not replace it.

 When I got it off, I found out just how bad it was, sure glad I replaced it....

 

I figured it would just be a five minute job... not.

Because this machine has a front PTO, which is run through a drive shaft bolted to the crank pulley, I had to remove the PTO and drive shaft just to get the belt off. It ended up taking an hour to replace one stupid belt.

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#21 tweidman OFFLINE  

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Posted December 03, 2014 - 12:44 PM

The one rear fender was smashed into something by the previous owner and was bent up fairly bad. The paint flaked off because of the bend and it was rusting too. I straighten the fender and cleaned up the rust. Then, I repainted it and buffed the rest of the fender.

 

The holes and flat spot in the top of the fender is where a radio was mounted. I need to clean that up before remounting it.

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#22 tweidman OFFLINE  

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Posted December 03, 2014 - 12:50 PM

I was also able to get the steering cylinder off and apart. I ended up having to fabricate a tool to disassemble the control valve.

I believe the control valve is what is leaking, not the cylinder.

Massey says the seals are NLA, most are O rings, so no big deal, but the seal that seems to be the issue has a square shoulder, not your typical O ring. I found an O ring to replace it, but I'm not sure if that will do the job?

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#23 Cat385B ONLINE  

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Posted December 03, 2014 - 07:22 PM

Is it possible that one was replaced before, and that is why it's leaking? That the po just threw in a rubber washer instead of an o-ring?



#24 tweidman OFFLINE  

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Posted December 04, 2014 - 11:13 AM

Is it possible that one was replaced before, and that is why it's leaking? That the po just threw in a rubber washer instead of an o-ring?

Sure, it's possible. However, as difficult as it was to take this thing apart and the fact that I had to make the tool to dis-assemble the control valve, I'm guessing everything is stock from the factory.

Putting a rubber washer in place of an O ring is a home mechanic fix, but the dis-assembly was definitely not something the home mechanic would tackle.


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#25 tweidman OFFLINE  

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Posted December 16, 2014 - 09:48 AM

I gave up trying to find the seal and stuck the O ring in there. I drove it around for a little while last night. It seems to be working good so far.


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#26 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted December 16, 2014 - 12:15 PM

It should hold up if there was enough "squish factor", and sounds like there was.


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#27 tweidman OFFLINE  

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Posted December 16, 2014 - 12:38 PM

It should hold up if there was enough "squish factor", and sounds like there was.

I guess time will tell....



#28 Brian Guillory OFFLINE  

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Posted August 06, 2015 - 09:41 AM

Nice thread, I am interested to see if your tractor is a clone of my Hinomoto C144 I recently purchased.  Waiting to see pic of the whole thing.  I need to work on my idiot lights and also the tach/hr meter doesn't work.  Thinking of adding gauges like you did, they look good.


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#29 tweidman OFFLINE  

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Posted January 14, 2016 - 02:21 PM

Nice thread, I am interested to see if your tractor is a clone of my Hinomoto C144 I recently purchased.  Waiting to see pic of the whole thing.  I need to work on my idiot lights and also the tach/hr meter doesn't work.  Thinking of adding gauges like you did, they look good.

 Just saw this after not checking in on this forum for a while. Yes, I believe Hinomoto is the manufacturer.

Here is the tractor at work moving snow last winter after I moved it to my new house in PA.

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Edited by tweidman, January 14, 2016 - 02:22 PM.

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#30 tweidman OFFLINE  

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Posted January 15, 2016 - 12:30 PM

The charge light came on the other day, but I did not think too much about it. Then, after I parked it the battery was not only dead, but so dead it would not take a charge. I was thinking the battery might be the issue, so I bought a new one and installed it. It started right up, but after running it for a little while I got smoke coming from under the hood. Shut it off and opened the hood to find that the regulator was smoking. I went to order one and found out that Agco did not have the part and if they did it would be $200+. Ouch! After cross referencing the number it turns out that a kubota uses the same regulator on several of their units, found one of those on ebay for $35.

I'm now waiting for the part so that I can get her running, out of the woods and under cover again. It's also overdue for an oil change.

 

 It's funny how a little over a year ago I did not have a tractor this size and now I don't know what I would do without one. Of course, quadrupling my lot size with my move to Pa might have something to do with that.... :smilewink:


Edited by tweidman, January 15, 2016 - 12:31 PM.

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