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Help For My Snowthrower?


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#31 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted October 21, 2014 - 07:33 PM

A very effective cleaner & degreaser is plain old oven cleaner.  Cheapest you can find works fine.  Just remember it is caustic and will take the paint off too.  A friend of mine uses it all the time for his tractor restoration projects.  Any paint it don't take off don't need to come off.  I will be cleaning up a transaxle in the morning and will use oven cleaner.  Wear face protection when you wash it off with a pressure washer as you know it will get you in the face.  Always does.  Good luck.

 

chieffan


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#32 MyBolens1053 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 22, 2014 - 12:34 PM

A very effective cleaner & degreaser is plain old oven cleaner.  Cheapest you can find works fine.  Just remember it is caustic and will take the paint off too.  A friend of mine uses it all the time for his tractor restoration projects.  Any paint it don't take off don't need to come off.  I will be cleaning up a transaxle in the morning and will use oven cleaner.  Wear face protection when you wash it off with a pressure washer as you know it will get you in the face.  Always does.  Good luck.

 

chieffan

 

I will surely give it a try. Have a few cans here already.

 

Started knocking out the pins on the gear shaft. It took about 10 'luv' taps to get them moving.

 

1022141111-00.jpg



#33 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted October 22, 2014 - 06:00 PM

Mounted by snow trower this afternoon.  Finished straightening the augar and have it runnig true to from.  Everything else was free.  Added a bit of oil to the gear case and fired it up.  Run smooth with no vibration at 1/2 throttle.  Didn't run it faster yet as I wanted to get the chain completely free and lubricated.  Looks like that thing will really move the snow.  Will be running in on gravel and grass so will lower the shoes to leave about a inch of snow so I don't pick up anything (hopefully).  Sanded the chute down and have it painted.  I may actually be looking forward to the first snow just to use the "new" snow thrower.

 

chieffan


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#34 MyBolens1053 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 23, 2014 - 09:03 PM

Mounted by snow trower this afternoon.  Finished straightening the augar and have it runnig true to from.  Everything else was free.  Added a bit of oil to the gear case and fired it up.  Run smooth with no vibration at 1/2 throttle.  Didn't run it faster yet as I wanted to get the chain completely free and lubricated.  Looks like that thing will really move the snow.  Will be running in on gravel and grass so will lower the shoes to leave about a inch of snow so I don't pick up anything (hopefully).  Sanded the chute down and have it painted.  I may actually be looking forward to the first snow just to use the "new" snow thrower.

 

chieffan

How about some pics of that blower and tractor?


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#35 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2014 - 07:05 AM

How about some pics of that blower and tractor?

Sure thing.  Will get some in a couple days.  Have help coming this morning to start splitting the firewood for the winter.  That will take today and most of tomorrow.


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#36 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2014 - 07:53 PM

My youngest son was here helping today so had to show him the newest snow moving addition.  Fired it up and after a little warm up I opened the throttle.  Have some vibration a full speed.  Could be real anoying unless it disapats with a load of snow going through it.  Both of the flats in the center of the augar have been welded on.  I also have a bout 3/8" space between the flats on the augar and the housing at the chuts entrance.  Thinking of using some plate steel bolted to the flats to close this gap up.  Also by bolting it I can add or remove weight to see if I can get the system closer to being balanced.  Anyone have an thoughts on doing it this way?

 

chieffan


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#37 MyBolens1053 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 25, 2014 - 12:01 AM

My youngest son was here helping today so had to show him the newest snow moving addition.  Fired it up and after a little warm up I opened the throttle.  Have some vibration a full speed.  Could be real anoying unless it disapats with a load of snow going through it.  Both of the flats in the center of the augar have been welded on.  I also have a bout 3/8" space between the flats on the augar and the housing at the chuts entrance.  Thinking of using some plate steel bolted to the flats to close this gap up.  Also by bolting it I can add or remove weight to see if I can get the system closer to being balanced.  Anyone have an thoughts on doing it this way?

 

chieffan

 

I have the same problem with the gap between the auger and the chute. Looking over other designs I have decided to go with rubber. TSC sells universal rubber belting, it's thick enough, sturdy enough and will flex enough to do a good job. Cut to fit, punch a few holes, secure to the auger with small screws, washers and lock-nuts. Voila. Good to go. And easy to fix when needing to replace.


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#38 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted October 25, 2014 - 06:48 AM

I have the same problem with the gap between the auger and the chute. Looking over other designs I have decided to go with rubber. TSC sells universal rubber belting, it's thick enough, sturdy enough and will flex enough to do a good job. Cut to fit, punch a few holes, secure to the auger with small screws, washers and lock-nuts. Voila. Good to go. And easy to fix when needing to replace.

I agree fully with using the belting.  It would also take less power to turn the addition of the belting than it would the steel.  Reason I thought about steel and bolting it in place is for balance.  I could add 1/4" washers or nuts to help the balance situation.  May be that would not be enough to help any balance situation though.

 

I also need to build a U-joint and crank to control the chute direction.  Have an idea in mind and will give it a try before posting anything on it.  Good luck with your project.

 

chieffan


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#39 MyBolens1053 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 25, 2014 - 11:23 AM

I agree fully with using the belting.  It would also take less power to turn the addition of the belting than it would the steel.  Reason I thought about steel and bolting it in place is for balance.  I could add 1/4" washers or nuts to help the balance situation.  May be that would not be enough to help any balance situation though.

 

I also need to build a U-joint and crank to control the chute direction.  Have an idea in mind and will give it a try before posting anything on it.  Good luck with your project.

 

chieffan

 

The joint they designed for the blower is just a rectangle block with 2 holes drilled in it. Each hole offset by 90 degrees.

[_O___]

[___O_]

 

the ends of each rod are a 90 degree bend at the end with a hole drilled for a cotter pin to hold the joint in place.


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#40 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted October 25, 2014 - 06:53 PM

I think my blower is an older model as it has a pot metal U-Joint connecting the adjusting rod and the crank.  The ear on the crank side is broke off.  The rod from the blower is a straight rod with the end of the U-joind pined to it.

 

Will get a photo and post it tomorrow of what I am dealing with.

 

chieffan


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#41 MyBolens1053 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 26, 2014 - 03:44 PM

Chieffan, here is a few pics of my U-joint.

 

1026141549-00.jpg 1026141550-00.jpg

 

 


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#42 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 26, 2014 - 03:51 PM

Sounds like your talking about the real early Blowers that used this U-joint assembly

$%28KGrHqV,%21okFI%214v2tqSBSHKROzSyw~~6


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#43 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted October 26, 2014 - 06:52 PM

Posteds some photos of my project (s) under my topic "Siezed Traction Hub - - - -"


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#44 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted October 28, 2014 - 01:47 PM

Spent some time in the shop this morning and came up with a U-Joint and crank.  Paid $3 for the 5/16" rod to make the crank.  Rest I had on hand.  So far it works good.  One problem I see down the road is the set screws working loose.  If that happens I will tack a 1/4" nut to the joint and use a longer set screw with a socked head.  Going to put some Lok-Tite on the set screws yet to help hold them tight.  The plumbing job on the exhaust was done when I bought the tractor but worked out perfect for holding the crank.  Just closed up the eye a little on a 5/6" eye bolt.  The crank has about 8" clearance between the tractor and handles when to the inside position.  Photo shows it about touching but plenty of room for my knee in between.  $23 saved and had fun building it.

 

 

U-Joint-1.JPG

 

Crank Mount.JPG

 

Full Mount.JPG



#45 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted October 30, 2014 - 07:17 PM

I have the same problem with the gap between the auger and the chute. Looking over other designs I have decided to go with rubber. TSC sells universal rubber belting, it's thick enough, sturdy enough and will flex enough to do a good job. Cut to fit, punch a few holes, secure to the auger with small screws, washers and lock-nuts. Voila. Good to go. And easy to fix when needing to replace.

I picked up some rubber belting at TSC yesterday.  Have both pieces mounted but cannot get the gap down under 1/4" or a little more.  The clearance at the top is a lot less than what it is at the back of the auger framing.  I have the rubber just clearing and that is all.  I bolted it on with one 1/4" bolt with a fender washer under the head against the belting.  Will have to wait and try it in the snow when it gets here.  Not if  - - but when.  Talking a high tomorrow of 45°.  Had 36° this morning.


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