Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

Sickle Bar Clutch Adjustment


  • Please log in to reply
8 replies to this topic

#1 Alc ONLINE  

Alc

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1094
  • 5,458 Thanks
  • 6,625 posts
  • Location: Bangor Pa

Posted September 30, 2014 - 05:33 AM

I tried out one of my sickle bars on the Super 3 the other day and when I got into some weeds the clutch started slipping .. The set-up I was using was just a chain to pull the clutch in so it had all slack when engaged . I'm going to take it apart to check but thought I would ask if anyone had any suggestions on doing it, I do had a parts sickle bar I might be able to just the clutch discs from if needed , thanks Al

 

http://members.lsol....pringclutch.htm

 

 

This link is for the tractor drive but suppose to be the same as the sickle bars clutch


Edited by Alc, September 30, 2014 - 05:40 AM.


#2 VSTROM803 OFFLINE  

VSTROM803
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 10269
  • 369 Thanks
  • 338 posts
  • Location: SOUTH CAROLINA

Posted September 30, 2014 - 12:11 PM

I believe if the gap is too narrow between the top of the knife and the rock guard that can cause "choking". Also, check that the knife clips are keeping the knives down against the cutting edge of the rock guard.


  • Alc said thank you

#3 Alc ONLINE  

Alc

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1094
  • 5,458 Thanks
  • 6,625 posts
  • Location: Bangor Pa

Posted September 30, 2014 - 07:53 PM

Never thought it might be the teeth/bar problem . I'll have to look at that , thanks



#4 Lauber1 OFFLINE  

Lauber1

    DB restorer

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 4926
  • 3,456 Thanks
  • 2,801 posts
  • Location: S.E.IOWA

Posted September 30, 2014 - 09:38 PM

it possible that you slugged it, but im thinking the clutch don't have enough pressure on it. Might try putting a spring in with the chain to keep the slack out.  Finding an original control rod is hard, but there is at least one guy I know who makes a repo one.



#5 Alc ONLINE  

Alc

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1094
  • 5,458 Thanks
  • 6,625 posts
  • Location: Bangor Pa

Posted October 01, 2014 - 05:21 AM

 

it possible that you slugged it, but im thinking the clutch don't have enough pressure on it. Might try putting a spring in with the chain to keep the slack out.  Finding an original control rod is hard, but there is at least one guy I know who makes a repo one.

Do you mean the control rods need to have pressure to help the sickle bar clutch keep from slipping ?  Would that be the same as the  handles/rods for the drive on the spring clutch machines ?   I did get the rod but couldn't find it the other day so just put the chain on to try .



#6 Alc ONLINE  

Alc

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1094
  • 5,458 Thanks
  • 6,625 posts
  • Location: Bangor Pa

Posted October 02, 2014 - 07:32 PM

Found the problem why the clutch was slipping ,,  there wasn't  any friction material on either side of the pulley .   I had a parts sickle bar  that one had a cast pulley but the disc worked  , On the other  3 sickle bars I have this is the only cast one .  Cleaned off the contact surfaces and it works fine now . I'm guessing the cast pulley might have been a very early one and they  went to die cast so the friction material wouldn't rust fast to the pulley also notice the die cast pulley has the drive lugs for the friction disc to lock on and the cast iron/steel doesn't .

Attached Thumbnails

  • DSCN1272.JPG
  • DSCN1273.JPG

Edited by Alc, October 02, 2014 - 07:34 PM.

  • Lauber1 said thank you

#7 VSTROM803 OFFLINE  

VSTROM803
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 10269
  • 369 Thanks
  • 338 posts
  • Location: SOUTH CAROLINA

Posted October 03, 2014 - 03:23 PM

I'm glad to see you him going!


  • Alc said thank you

#8 Alc ONLINE  

Alc

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1094
  • 5,458 Thanks
  • 6,625 posts
  • Location: Bangor Pa

Posted October 04, 2014 - 07:11 AM

I didn't mention but this was the sickle bar that came with the 600  and it seemed to shake more on that then it does now  with the older DB with the B&S engine , you can just back off throttle  on the little B&S so slow. I would like to have one  of those non-contact tachs to see just how many rpms these engines low idle and to set full rpms . Some day lol

Attached Thumbnails

  • RSCN1271.JPG

  • VSTROM803 said thank you

#9 VSTROM803 OFFLINE  

VSTROM803
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 10269
  • 369 Thanks
  • 338 posts
  • Location: SOUTH CAROLINA

Posted October 05, 2014 - 04:09 AM

You may feel more shake on the 600 because of the more rigid two piece frame construction it has. I still prefer using the sickle on the two piece frame tractors though. I think all that shaking is what causes the cracks that are so common on the hoods.


  • Alc said thank you




Top