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Starting Restoration Process Of Cub Cadet 104 .


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#106 shorty ONLINE  

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Posted November 24, 2014 - 04:16 PM

Wow, wasn't it quite the change in weather today. Just about broke a sweat. Talking about your car, I have to smile everytime I think of how you haul your parts. :smilewink:  :smilewink:


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#107 mike912e OFFLINE  

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Posted November 24, 2014 - 04:28 PM

Wow, wasn't it quite the change in weather today. Just about broke a sweat. Talking about your car, I have to smile everytime I think of how you haul your parts. :smilewink:  :smilewink:

It's just transportation ! Point "A" to point "B" . If you really want a chuckle look up Porsche 912e . Interesting details . As for the weather it looks like we might be getting some white stuff, up to six inches Thursday . Yippee , time for the 2206 with snow thrower to get to work .


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#108 IHCubGuy OFFLINE  

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Posted November 24, 2014 - 04:29 PM

Wow, wasn't it quite the change in weather today. Just about broke a sweat. Talking about your car, I have to smile everytime I think of how you haul your parts. :smilewink:  :smilewink:

 

Unfortunately it's not going to stay long enough.  It's suppose to snow on wednesday into thursday.  That will suck if I gotta be out plowing and miss turkey day.  Forecast here on Accu-weather says 6-10 inches.


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#109 mike912e OFFLINE  

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Posted November 24, 2014 - 04:43 PM

Just paint the whole Porsche yellow then no one will ever know if you get over spray on it when you are painting.  LOL!!!!!!!!!!  After watching your progress and having argued with myself whether I wanted to do it or not while I have the rear out to re-gasket it I finally decided last night.  I now have my 107 laying in a bunch of pieces all over my garage floor waiting to get cleaned to be repainted.  It's only going to be a nice worker paint job, nothing fancy as it has to be able to get scratches in it.  It was time though and now I can give some attention to some things that might need checked while it's apart.  I'm hoping to keep my budget under $300 (like that will happen!).

You will probably spend the $300 just on replacement parts . Carb overhaul, new PTO spring and plate , starter/generator belt , gear and engine oil , clutch and throw-out bearing . I installed a heavy duty throw-out bearing on the 104 because it has it's own grease fitting . Remove as many grease fittings as you can and replace them . Time to repair or replace the wiring harness ?  And save all those " IH " stamped bolts . I made a 1/4" plate with tapped holes to hold all the different sized fasteners . Makes bead blasting and painting easier .

Also included a picture of the installed implement hanger . Put it on last evening after checking that all the cotter pins underneath the frame were bent over .

Attached Thumbnails

  • bolt holder for painting 001.JPG
  • bolt holder for painting 002.JPG
  • bolt holder for painting 003.JPG

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#110 Gabriel OFFLINE  

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Posted November 24, 2014 - 06:43 PM

Looking good, Mike!

Edited by Gabriel, November 24, 2014 - 06:43 PM.

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#111 IHCubGuy OFFLINE  

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Posted November 24, 2014 - 08:06 PM

You will probably spend the $300 just on replacement parts . Carb overhaul, new PTO spring and plate , starter/generator belt , gear and engine oil , clutch and throw-out bearing . I installed a heavy duty throw-out bearing on the 104 because it has it's own grease fitting . Remove as many grease fittings as you can and replace them . Time to repair or replace the wiring harness ?  And save all those " IH " stamped bolts . I made a 1/4" plate with tapped holes to hold all the different sized fasteners . Makes bead blasting and painting easier .

Also included a picture of the installed implement hanger . Put it on last evening after checking that all the cotter pins underneath the frame were bent over .

 

Luckily it doesn't really need anything mechanically.  No clutch or throwout bearing as it's a hydro and the drive from the engine to the pump was put on last year.  The wiring harness was new about 5 years ago and is in good shape.  All it really needs is a new seat, paint and decals, and I might get a new center cap for the steering wheel too.  It will be far from a restoration project, I just want to freshen up it's appearance by getting some rust issues under the battery box fixed and repaint the transmission from all the oil that has ran down it and taken all the paint off of it.  

 

Honestly if it wasn't for the leaky tranny that took the paint off I wouldn't have even started it, but I just can't paint the transmission and leave the rest of it the way it is.  So it gets done as a whole unit.  My preliminary parts list is about $235 for the paint, decals, seat, and new fuel bowl.  I am sure there will be something else but it shouldn't be much so the $300 should hopefully be a figure I can land somewhere around.


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#112 IHCubGuy OFFLINE  

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Posted November 24, 2014 - 08:11 PM

I also wanted to ask you about your bolts Mike.  You said in a previous post you used only IH bolts.  When you sorted the ones that were on the tractor did you run into any that had WP on them?  If you did and you did not re-use them hopefully you kept them as they would be the correct O.E.M. fastener from the factory.  WP stands for West Pullman which was one of IH's factories and fasteners were one of the things they made there.  Not all factory fasteners had the IH logo stamped into them.  Just some info in case you were not aware of it.


Edited by IHCubGuy, November 24, 2014 - 08:21 PM.

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#113 mike912e OFFLINE  

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Posted November 24, 2014 - 08:21 PM

Luckily it doesn't really need anything mechanically.  No clutch or throwout bearing as it's a hydro and the drive from the engine to the pump was put on last year.  The wiring harness was new about 5 years ago and is in good shape.  All it really needs is a new seat, paint and decals, and I might get a new center cap for the steering wheel too.  It will be far from a restoration project, I just want to freshen up it's appearance by getting some rust issues under the battery box fixed and repaint the transmission from all the oil that has ran down it and taken all the paint off of it.  

 

Honestly if it wasn't for the leaky tranny that took the paint off I wouldn't have even started it, but I just can't paint the transmission and leave the rest of it the way it is.  So it gets done as a whole unit.  My preliminary parts list is about $235 for the paint, decals, seat, and new fuel bowl.  I am sure there will be something else but it shouldn't be much so the $300 should hopefully be a figure I can land somewhere around.

I used my pressure washer and some good degreaser on my manual transmission while it was out of the frame . Hard to get paint to stick to an oily surface . It was also easier to paint after it had dried thoroughly . If you have a heated garage, then weather isn't an issue . If not then it's a little more challenging ! Yes, I was aware of the WP on the fastener heads . Thanks for reminding me though . Memory is the second thing that goes . 


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#114 IHCubGuy OFFLINE  

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Posted November 24, 2014 - 09:00 PM

I used my pressure washer and some good degreaser on my manual transmission while it was out of the frame . Hard to get paint to stick to an oily surface . It was also easier to paint after it had dried thoroughly . If you have a heated garage, then weather isn't an issue . If not then it's a little more challenging ! Yes, I was aware of the WP on the fastener heads . Thanks for reminding me though . Memory is the second thing that goes . 

 

The tranny is all degreased and dry and waiting to be painted.  The frame will be powerwashed and degreased and the smaller parts will go into my parts washer tank and be cleaned and then wiped dry and blown off with an air hose.  Then either sanded or through the sand blast cabinet before a coat of self etching primer and we should be ready to paint.


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#115 mike912e OFFLINE  

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Posted November 24, 2014 - 09:54 PM

The tranny is all degreased and dry and waiting to be painted.  The frame will be powerwashed and degreased and the smaller parts will go into my parts washer tank and be cleaned and then wiped dry and blown off with an air hose.  Then either sanded or through the sand blast cabinet before a coat of self etching primer and we should be ready to paint.

Sounds like you have it all covered ! I look forward to seeing pictures of it when your done . Thank you for your input .


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#116 Gabriel OFFLINE  

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Posted November 24, 2014 - 10:41 PM

I look forward to seeing pictures of it when your done .

Me, too!

Edited by Gabriel, November 24, 2014 - 10:50 PM.


#117 mike912e OFFLINE  

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Posted November 25, 2014 - 06:10 PM

Well , today was to steps forward and three steps back . Grabbed the straps for the tank and yep, you guessed it . They were the wrong ones . I had gotten the straps for a 12 hp Cub powder coated instead of the correct one . Not even close ! So I grabbed the correct ones, wet sanded and painted . They will go on tomorrow as will the " 104 " decals on the side of the dash  . I did manage to remember to glue rubber vibration pads on the tank mount and the ones at the rear edge of the hood . I still have to heat-shrink tubing over top of the rear hood pads . Helps add an extra layer for wear as we all know how much a Cub hood vibrates even with the latches tightened . I have the dash held on temporarily and will purchase new 10-24 X 1/2" SS screws tomorrow from the hardware store . The steering tube rubber grommet is in place in preparation for the steering to be installed either tonight or tomorrow . Once the tank straps are on I should be at a point that the only thing remaining is the choke and throttle cables . Then to recheck the wiring , put gas in the tank and fire her up . Of course all of this planning depends on the weather . The weatherman is calling for 4 to 8 inches of snow Wednesday into Thursday . I'll be busy playing with the old 2206's snow-thrower !

Attached Thumbnails

  • Cub 104 dash beginning installation 001.JPG
  • Cub 104 dash beginning installation 002.JPG

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#118 mike912e OFFLINE  

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Posted November 25, 2014 - 08:45 PM

Here are a few close-up pictures of the hood bumpers , the dash decal and the steering thrust bearing . The hood bumpers are squares of rubber sheet ,  contact glued to the tabs , then covered with heat shrink tubing . The thrust bearing on the Ross steering box is a way to reduce friction and slop in the steering . Helps keep the grease inside the box . The dash decal picture is a better one than I posted earlier .

Attached Thumbnails

  • Cub 104 close-up pics 002.JPG
  • Cub 104 close-up pics 003.JPG
  • Cub 104 close-up pics 004.JPG

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#119 Gabriel OFFLINE  

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Posted November 25, 2014 - 09:01 PM

Looking good, Mike! Thanks for the pictures and update!



#120 mike912e OFFLINE  

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Posted November 26, 2014 - 10:58 AM

Just about done with the dash . Still have the side decals . Steering is installed . If the tank straps are dry I'll get them installed today . Still need to finish the choke and throttle cable installations. And double check the wiring !

Should I hang the wheel weights ?

Attached Thumbnails

  • Cub 104 progress so far . Almost there ! 001.JPG
  • Cub 104 progress so far . Almost there ! 002.JPG
  • Cub 104 progress so far . Almost there ! 003.JPG

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