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Starting Restoration Process Of Cub Cadet 104 .


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#76 Gabriel OFFLINE  

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Posted November 19, 2014 - 08:44 PM

I guess you guys figured out that the " snow plow " was just a joke !

  Today's effort produced the 3 point being mounted on the tractor . I also added a 7000 pound thrust bearing to the Ross steering box . I've seen it advertised on Ebay for $30 and figured I could do it cheaper . The only issue I had was purchasing the correct thickness 5/8" fine thread nylon locknut . The only one they had was too thick, but using a hacksaw and belt sander I was able to modify a useable piece . Just ordered the dash decal and as soon as it gets here I can install the dash and then the steering gear .  Closer to getting her done !

  This evenings effort will be the mule drive . It's been modified and will post pictured tomorrow .

Looking good!


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#77 mike912e OFFLINE  

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Posted November 20, 2014 - 02:29 PM

Here's the modified mule drive I mentioned yesterday . I have used it on occasion because it was on the tractor when I purchased it .  I'm planning on getting the spring assist installed this evening or first thing tomorrow The only documentation I can find is the instructions included as part of the 1A rototiller and that only shows a picture with the arm that mounts to the implement shaft parallel to the implement handle itself . I'll set it that way and see if any further adjusting is required whenever I use it .

Attached Thumbnails

  • 104 Cub seat and front tow ball 002.JPG

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#78 IHCubGuy OFFLINE  

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Posted November 20, 2014 - 03:49 PM

Here's the modified mule drive I mentioned yesterday . I have used it on occasion because it was on the tractor when I purchased it .  I'm planning on getting the spring assist installed this evening or first thing tomorrow The only documentation I can find is the instructions included as part of the 1A rototiller and that only shows a picture with the arm that mounts to the implement shaft parallel to the implement handle itself . I'll set it that way and see if any further adjusting is required whenever I use it .

Different attachments require different tension on the spring.  I turn mine back a good ways and use it during the summer to help allow the mower deck to float with out scalping.  In the spring when I use the Brinley plow it is turned in pretty good to help lift that.  In the winter it needs tightened even harder to lift the snow thrower.  Makes it especially handy when it gets covered in wet snow!


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#79 Gabriel OFFLINE  

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Posted November 22, 2014 - 10:24 AM

Have you made any more progress on your 104? Thanks.


Edited by Gabriel, November 22, 2014 - 10:24 AM.


#80 mike912e OFFLINE  

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Posted November 22, 2014 - 01:37 PM

Gabriel,

    Thank you for the inquiry . You know the old adage ; what can go wrong , will go wrong . I installed the implement spring assist and I'm having difficulty cinching the "U" bolt tight enough on the shaft . When I move the implement handle the spring assist bracket slips . I'll have to see if I can get the u-bolt nuts tight enough without shearing them off . The starter/generator belt is installed and tensioned as is the PTO rod w/turnbuckle , also properly adjusted . The remaining decals should be here any day and I can install them on the fiberglass dash, which has been given two more coats of gloss white paint . If the surface at the decal's location is not completely smooth any imperfections will show up through the decal . And the last thing that needs to be tackled yet is the gas tank . I'm debating bead-blasting, as  I did on previous restored tanks , or using paint stripper . I might try stripper this time so I can compare effort and results . By the way, if your wondering why the tank is being painted instead of powder coated, the answer is simple . The tank's three sections are soldered together with soft solder which, unfortunately would melt during the baking portion of the powder coating ( 350-400 degrees F. ) . I had considered removing the solder and reassembling the tank with silver solder, but I think the effort might be too great for the results obtained . So paint it is .

Note from yesterday's post : installing two extra 1/2" bolts through the mule drive to frame would probably add enough safety to allow the front trailer ball to support a trailer and safely move it  .

I also installed the tank support and still have to torque the head bolts that I removed .

I keep chipping away at it , in addition to the other daily tasks like moving firewood and keeping the wood stove going , making my own meals , laundry and making sure that the dogs are well fed and spoiled . This retirement isn't all it's made up to be . Some days I wish I was back at work as there was less work to do !

I'll post pictures later .

Attached Thumbnails

  • Belt installed 104 Cub 001.JPG
  • Belt installed 104 Cub 002.JPG
  • Belt installed 104 Cub 003.JPG
  • Belt installed 104 Cub 006.JPG
  • Belt installed 104 Cub 007.JPG
  • Belt installed 104 Cub 008.JPG

Edited by mike912e, November 22, 2014 - 02:16 PM.

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#81 Gabriel OFFLINE  

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Posted November 22, 2014 - 09:24 PM

Looking very nice, Mike! Thanks for the update and pictures! Sorry to hear of your problems with the "U" bolt.
Does your engine have any studs for the head, or is it all bolts? How does the fuel tank and air deflector shield on top of the head, mount? Thanks.
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#82 mike912e OFFLINE  

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Posted November 22, 2014 - 10:12 PM

Looking very nice, Mike! Thanks for the update and pictures! Sorry to hear of your problems with the "U" bolt.
Does your engine have any studs for the head, or is it all bolts? How does the fuel tank and air deflector shield on top of the head, mount? Thanks.

Engine head is bolted on . The fuel tank mount and air-deflector mount also attach with the same head bolts . I do a final torque after everything is in place .

Attached Thumbnails

  • Fuel tank mount and air-deflector 104 Cub 001.JPG
  • Fuel tank mount and air-deflector 104 Cub 002.JPG

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#83 Gabriel OFFLINE  

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Posted November 22, 2014 - 10:22 PM

Engine head is bolted on . The fuel tank mount and air-deflector mount also attach with the same head bolts . I do a final torque after everything is in place .

Thanks. I was just wondering because my Cub Cadet 123 has both bolts and studs and I wondered if that is the way it's supposed to be, or if it should have all bolts. Mine may not have the original K301, so maybe the Cub Cadet this engine was originally mounted on needed a mix of studs and bolts.

#84 Gabriel OFFLINE  

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Posted November 22, 2014 - 10:31 PM

Here's a picture of mine.

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  • IMG_5917.jpg 2.jpg


#85 Gabriel OFFLINE  

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Posted November 22, 2014 - 10:49 PM

When I look at the picture of mine, I can see part of the reason for a mix of studs and bolts. I just wish I knew what model of Cub Cadet mine came off of. Parts of it don't look like what the original engine that would have come on a Cub Cadet 123 looked like.

Edited by Gabriel, November 22, 2014 - 10:54 PM.


#86 Gabriel OFFLINE  

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Posted November 22, 2014 - 11:15 PM

Looking at the pictures of yours, I see why it doesn't use studs and why mine does. I wonder why they didn't have all K301s on Cub Cadets use bolts and studs on the head or just all bolts? Thanks for the pictures!


Edited by Gabriel, November 23, 2014 - 07:26 PM.


#87 IHCubGuy OFFLINE  

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Posted November 23, 2014 - 11:08 AM

Mike your bracket is not on right for your spring assist that is why it is not staying for you.  The little ledge that is on the bracket for the spring assist goes underneath the lift arm for the mower deck.  That is how it assists by pulling up on that deck lift arm with that ledge.  Not just with the clamping force of the u bolt.  I will take a picture of mine on my 107 for you to see.  Here's the pics Mike.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1123141113a.jpg
  • 1123141113.jpg

Edited by IHCubGuy, November 23, 2014 - 11:34 AM.

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#88 mike912e OFFLINE  

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Posted November 23, 2014 - 11:39 AM

Looking at the pictures of yours, I see why it doesn't use studs and why mine does. I wonder why they didn't have all K301s on Cub Cadets use bolts and studs on the head or just bolts? Thanks for the pictures!

Gabriel ,

    Here's two pictures of two different 12 hp Kohlers ( K-301 )that I have . One has three studs and the other has all bolts . The engine with the studs and spacers is not the correct engine for this application . It also does not have a deep oil sump but is flat on the bottom  . The other has no studs and a deep sump and is correct for the 124 that it's mounted in . If your totally confused by now I understand . Without the original shroud tag on the engine with the specification number on it , you can't be sure of what application it should be used on . If it isn't broke don't fix it ! If your tractor has an engine in it that is functioning great, don't fret over it .

mike912e

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  • Kohler 12 hp engines 001.JPG
  • Kohler 12 hp engines 002.JPG

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#89 mike912e OFFLINE  

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Posted November 23, 2014 - 11:45 AM

Mike your bracket is not on right for your spring assist that is why it is not staying for you.  The little ledge that is on the bracket for the spring assist goes underneath the lift arm for the mower deck.  That is how it assists by pulling up on that deck lift arm with that ledge.  Not just with the clamping force of the u bolt.  I will take a picture of mine on my 107 for you to see.  Here's the pics Mike.

IHCubGuy

Damn ! Now it makes sense ! There are no pictures of how it's supposed to be installed anywhere in the Cub library . Just the one set of instructions and drawings, which leave a lot to be desired , in the 1A Tiller operator's manual . Thanks for the pictures . Now to tear it apart again and put it together correctly .

mike912e


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#90 IHCubGuy OFFLINE  

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Posted November 23, 2014 - 12:24 PM

IHCubGuy

Damn ! Now it makes sense ! There are no pictures of how it's supposed to be installed anywhere in the Cub library . Just the one set of instructions and drawings, which leave a lot to be desired , in the 1A Tiller operator's manual . Thanks for the pictures . Now to tear it apart again and put it together correctly .

mike912e

You are welcome.  Glad to help.


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