Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

Starting Restoration Process Of Cub Cadet 104 .


  • Please log in to reply
164 replies to this topic

#46 Gabriel OFFLINE  

Gabriel
  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 52459
  • 1,440 Thanks
  • 1,858 posts
  • Location: East Central Indiana

Posted November 10, 2014 - 11:38 PM

Do you paint your nuts and bolts before you put them on the tractor?

#47 mike912e OFFLINE  

mike912e
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 14152
  • 426 Thanks
  • 241 posts
  • Location: Columbia, Pa.

Posted November 11, 2014 - 05:05 AM

Do you paint your nuts and bolts before you put them on the tractor?

Yes, but I let them dry for at least three days for the paint to completely cure and harden . During the winter I let them dry longer, sometimes up to a week . I occasionally paint in-place but the required masking is time consuming . I originally tried powder coating each fastener head . It came out okay, but the real issue was that the bolt/screw head had grown so much that standard wrenches wouldn't fit them . Don't forget that the coating is two  layers thick . First is a layer of powder coat primer , followed by the final top/color coat . Since each technician applies the powder in different thickness , the final thickness can vary considerably ,

I slide washers, both plain and lock washers onto a square stick and primer and paint . You can vary the stick size to accommodate each washer's diameter . Don't use a round dowel as the paint will dry and the washers will be damned near impossible to get off . You get 100% contact with a round dowel , but only the four corners of the square stick contact the inside edge of each washer ( or nut ) . Then make sure that the inside of the wrench/socket is clean and they will tighten with out getting too marred . I use nylon locknuts whenever necessary and in fact all hardware is stainless except for those marked IH on the head . Once painted no one can tell the difference  , but the rust problem is reduced . I try to buy my stainless hardware by the box as the price is cheaper in quantity .

Ask a simple question and you get a thirty minute lecture ! Just passing on my way of doing things . What ever way you use is the right way for you and that's okay . Have a great day .

mike912e


  • KennyP, Sawdust and Gabriel have said thanks

#48 KennyP ONLINE  

KennyP

    FORDoholic

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2253
  • 29,435 Thanks
  • 40,422 posts
  • Location: Collinsville, Oklahoma

Posted November 11, 2014 - 06:01 AM

That Kohler looks great! Thanks for the info on doing the hardware. I have some stiff foam I stick the bolts into to do the heads. Just leave a little space between the head and the foam so they don't stick down.


  • mike912e and Gabriel have said thanks

#49 mike912e OFFLINE  

mike912e
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 14152
  • 426 Thanks
  • 241 posts
  • Location: Columbia, Pa.

Posted November 11, 2014 - 07:03 AM

That Kohler looks great! Thanks for the info on doing the hardware. I have some stiff foam I stick the bolts into to do the heads. Just leave a little space between the head and the foam so they don't stick down.

KennyP,

   Thanks for the tip . I have used a sheet of cardboard with "X" slots cut into it to hold the fastener's being painted . To powdercoat the fastener heads I drilled and tapped a 1/4" thick piece of aluminum sheet to hold them during the process of baking the powder coating ( 350-400 degrees Fahrenheit ) . I had to drill and tap 1/4" , 5/16" , 3/8" and a few of the oddball sizes as well . What we do for our hobby !

mike912e


  • Alc, KennyP and BNK have said thanks

#50 Gabriel OFFLINE  

Gabriel
  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 52459
  • 1,440 Thanks
  • 1,858 posts
  • Location: East Central Indiana

Posted November 11, 2014 - 09:24 AM

Yes, but I let them dry for at least three days for the paint to completely cure and harden . During the winter I let them dry longer, sometimes up to a week . I occasionally paint in-place but the required masking is time consuming . I originally tried powder coating each fastener head . It came out okay, but the real issue was that the bolt/screw head had grown so much that standard wrenches wouldn't fit them . Don't forget that the coating is two  layers thick . First is a layer of powder coat primer , followed by the final top/color coat . Since each technician applies the powder in different thickness , the final thickness can vary considerably ,
I slide washers, both plain and lock washers onto a square stick and primer and paint . You can vary the stick size to accommodate each washer's diameter . Don't use a round dowel as the paint will dry and the washers will be damned near impossible to get off . You get 100% contact with a round dowel , but only the four corners of the square stick contact the inside edge of each washer ( or nut ) . Then make sure that the inside of the wrench/socket is clean and they will tighten with out getting too marred . I use nylon locknuts whenever necessary and in fact all hardware is stainless except for those marked IH on the head . Once painted no one can tell the difference  , but the rust problem is reduced . I try to buy my stainless hardware by the box as the price is cheaper in quantity .
Ask a simple question and you get a thirty minute lecture ! Just passing on my way of doing things . What ever way you use is the right way for you and that's okay . Have a great day .
mike912e

Thanks!

#51 mike912e OFFLINE  

mike912e
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 14152
  • 426 Thanks
  • 241 posts
  • Location: Columbia, Pa.

Posted November 11, 2014 - 07:57 PM

Here's today's results . Mounted the PTO and pulley on the front of the engine . Installed the throttle and choke brackets below the carburetor . Hooked the throttle linkage from the governor arm to the throttle arm on the carburetor . Installed the four wheels . Added the battery hold-down clamp, throttle control and implement arm stop, key switch, hood hold-downs latches . Finally figured out how to get better close-up pictures and have provided a couple . Enjoy ! Tomorrow's goal is to get the engine mounted in the frame .

Attached Thumbnails

  • 104 is starting to look more like a GT every day 001.JPG
  • 104 is starting to look more like a GT every day 002.JPG
  • 104 is starting to look more like a GT every day 006.JPG
  • 104 is starting to look more like a GT every day 007.JPG
  • 104 is starting to look more like a GT every day 008.JPG
  • 104 is starting to look more like a GT every day 009.JPG
  • 104 is starting to look more like a GT every day 010.JPG
  • 104 is starting to look more like a GT every day 011.JPG

  • Alc, GTpicker01, Gabriel and 1 other said thanks

#52 Gabriel OFFLINE  

Gabriel
  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 52459
  • 1,440 Thanks
  • 1,858 posts
  • Location: East Central Indiana

Posted November 12, 2014 - 09:29 AM

Looking good! Thanks for the pictures and update! Keep them coming!
  • mike912e said thank you

#53 mike912e OFFLINE  

mike912e
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 14152
  • 426 Thanks
  • 241 posts
  • Location: Columbia, Pa.

Posted November 12, 2014 - 04:53 PM

Engine installed and tractor back up on the lift . Now to start adding all the peripherals like muffler , choke and throttle cables , air cleaner . gas tank , etc . I won't be getting much done on the tractor for the next few days as I will be concentrating on the fiberglass dash panel restoration . Then the steering column will get installed followed by the remaining decals . Won't be long until she's up and running again !

 

Attached Thumbnails

  • Engine installed in the 104 Cub 001.JPG
  • Engine installed in the 104 Cub 002.JPG
  • Engine installed in the 104 Cub 003.JPG

  • Alc, Sawdust, GTpicker01 and 2 others have said thanks

#54 mike912e OFFLINE  

mike912e
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 14152
  • 426 Thanks
  • 241 posts
  • Location: Columbia, Pa.

Posted November 13, 2014 - 05:35 PM

Started the repair on the fiberglass dash panel today . Filled the area that was worn through and another area that was chipped off . The pictures show the repairs after filling with glass fibers and epoxy and after the first coat of primer . I'll let it dry overnight and sand and top coat it tomorrow .

Attached Thumbnails

  • Cub 104 dash before restoration 005.JPG
  • Cub 104 dash before restoration 006.JPG
  • Cub 104 dash before restoration 008.JPG
  • Cub 104 dash repair 001.JPG
  • Cub 104 dash repair 002.JPG
  • Cub 104 dash repair 004.JPG
  • Cub 104 dash repair 006.JPG
  • Cub 104 dash repair 007.JPG

  • Alc, Sawdust, GTpicker01 and 1 other said thanks

#55 Gabriel OFFLINE  

Gabriel
  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 52459
  • 1,440 Thanks
  • 1,858 posts
  • Location: East Central Indiana

Posted November 13, 2014 - 09:19 PM

Your dash looks nice!
  • mike912e said thank you

#56 mike912e OFFLINE  

mike912e
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 14152
  • 426 Thanks
  • 241 posts
  • Location: Columbia, Pa.

Posted November 14, 2014 - 03:06 PM

Got the primer sanded and the gloss white paint on today . I'll let it dry for at least a day in the nice warn, dry house then sand it out with 3500 grit wet/dry sandpaper . Then for the decals and installation on the metal dash support . In the meantime I'll take the screws that hold the dash to the metal support to my buffing wheel and make them look like chrome .

Attached Thumbnails

  • Gloss white paint on the 104 dash 001.JPG
  • Gloss white paint on the 104 dash 002.JPG

  • Sawdust and Gabriel have said thanks

#57 Gabriel OFFLINE  

Gabriel
  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 52459
  • 1,440 Thanks
  • 1,858 posts
  • Location: East Central Indiana

Posted November 14, 2014 - 08:00 PM

Got the primer sanded and the gloss white paint on today . I'll let it dry for at least a day in the nice warn, dry house then sand it out with 3500 grit wet/dry sandpaper . Then for the decals and installation on the metal dash support . In the meantime I'll take the screws that hold the dash to the metal support to my buffing wheel and make them look like chrome .

Very nice! What kind of epoxy did you use?

#58 mike912e OFFLINE  

mike912e
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 14152
  • 426 Thanks
  • 241 posts
  • Location: Columbia, Pa.

Posted November 14, 2014 - 10:40 PM

Very nice! What kind of epoxy did you use?

Gabriel,

   I've been building and flying radio controlled model airplanes for fifty years so I had this available . It can be purchased at any local hobby shop or you might try online sources as well . I was concerned that the dash was polyester material which epoxy won't adhere to very well, if not at all sometimes . As it turned out the dash material is epoxy and the repair turned out just fine . Here's a picture of the containers of epoxy that I used : The company's name is Bob Smith Industries ( BSI ) . The work time is fifteen minutes with a total cure time of three hours . Then it can be sanded and painted . Instructions are on the label .

Attached Thumbnails

  • Epoxy used to repair the 104 fiberglass dash 001.JPG

  • Sawdust and Gabriel have said thanks

#59 Sawdust ONLINE  

Sawdust
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 36549
  • 4,569 Thanks
  • 2,851 posts
  • Location: Butler, Kentucky

Posted November 14, 2014 - 11:20 PM

Finally got caught up & have enjoyed every word & pic. Not much to say that hasn't already been said but  :worship:


  • mike912e and Gabriel have said thanks

#60 BNK ONLINE  

BNK
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 62066
  • 985 Thanks
  • 445 posts
  • Location: Westmoreland, TN

Posted November 15, 2014 - 06:47 AM

I have restored a few tractors in my time but your work has put my resto's to shame. Outstanding attention to detail to include the ID tags,rivets & grease fittings. Major learning process for me with the powder coating as well. I assume this unit will be a feature story in Cadet Connection magazine in the future? I will be following this thread for sure. What a way to enjoy retirement! 


  • mike912e and Gabriel have said thanks




Top