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Starting Restoration Process Of Cub Cadet 104 .


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#1 mike912e OFFLINE  

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Posted September 26, 2014 - 01:21 PM

Well, it's that time of year when we wind down our summer and fall activities ( chores ! ) and think about repairing/restoring our GT . I have completed my 72 and 124 Cubs and the 104 is next . I was fortunate in that I was able to gather some extra parts like frame and fenders . Some have already been powder coated and others will be going within the next couple of weeks . The engine is a good running engine and will only require all of the sheet metal, carb, starter to be removed then rebuilt or cleaned and repainted . The tank will need to be painted as it would fall apart during the curing process of the powder coat ( 350-400 degrees ) . It's sections are assembled with soft solder . The rear axle will be next . I have cover plates for the rear cover and the shifter opening . I'll get it sandblasted and then primer and paint it . Cub's paint ( 759-3258 ) matches the powder coat quite well  . I'll try to get the manufacturer and color code for the powder coat from my shop that I do business with for any one who might be interested .

I already have some of the subassemblies done and sitting on the shelf . I like to work ahead and have parts waiting assembly . I hate to wait ! The Fenders are powder coated, as is the seat base . The starter/generator has been powder coated and reassembled with new bearings and brushes ( and tested ) .

I will be glad to answer any questions and provide guidance if any one needs help .

Enjoy, even though it doesn't look like much so far !

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#2 Gabriel OFFLINE  

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Posted September 26, 2014 - 02:49 PM

Well, it's that time of year when we wind down our summer and fall activities ( chores ! ) and think about repairing/restoring our GT . I have completed my 72 and 124 Cubs and the 104 is next . I was fortunate in that I was able to gather some extra parts like frame and fenders . Some have already been powder coated and others will be going within the next couple of weeks . The engine is a good running engine and will only require all of the sheet metal, carb, starter to be removed then rebuilt or cleaned and repainted . The tank will need to be painted as it would fall apart during the curing process of the powder coat ( 350-400 degrees ) . It's sections are assembled with soft solder . The rear axle will be next . I have cover plates for the rear cover and the shifter opening . I'll get it sandblasted and then primer and paint it . Cub's paint ( 759-3258 ) matches the powder coat quite well  . I'll try to get the manufacturer and color code for the powder coat from my shop that I do business with for any one who might be interested .

I already have some of the subassemblies done and sitting on the shelf . I like to work ahead and have parts waiting assembly . I hate to wait ! The Fenders are powder coated, as is the seat base . The starter/generator has been powder coated and reassembled with new bearings and brushes ( and tested ) .

I will be glad to answer any questions and provide guidance if any one needs help .

Enjoy, even though it doesn't look like much so far !

Will be fun to watch! Do keep us updated on your progress!


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#3 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted September 26, 2014 - 05:19 PM

You're off to a good start. Is the powder coating much more expensive than a regular paint job?


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#4 HANKG ONLINE  

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Posted September 26, 2014 - 06:53 PM

You're off to a good start. Is the powder coating much more expensive than a regular paint job?

Same question ?


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#5 superaben OFFLINE  

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Posted September 26, 2014 - 08:11 PM

Powder coating is more expensive, but boy oh boy!  It does give a nice professional, hard and lasting finish!

 

Ben W.



#6 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted September 27, 2014 - 06:25 AM

Powder coating is more expensive, but boy oh boy!  It does give a nice professional, hard and lasting finish!

 

Ben W.

It's the durability that would be a big bonus for me. 


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#7 mike912e OFFLINE  

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Posted September 27, 2014 - 10:00 AM

Guys, for my money I would consider powder coating to be less expensive . My 72 cost me around $350 for the sandblasting and powder coating and my 124 ran about $500 . A top of the line paint job would probably cost more . Everything is powder coated except for those parts/pieces that have to be painted like bolt heads , gas tank, engine and transmission . The tank could be powder coated if it was disassembled and reassembled with silver solder . Lots of work and might not be worth the effort . The trans could also be powder coated but would also have to be taken apart, each piece coated and then reassembled . The engine can't be coated because of the high operating temperatures which would melt the coating . Remember that any surface that gets hotter than 350-400 degrees will melt the powder coating . Seals, especially rubber seals might not tolerate 400 degrees during the powder coat's curing process . If you really wanted a surburb finish, you could have a part powder coated , bring it home and sand the surface to a blemish free surface, then add a final layer of powder coat and finally a last, clear coat . The hood of my 72 looks like it's " orange peeled " but in fact I left the rust pitting in the surface . It sat outside for ten years uncovered and had a lot of rust on it . I think I have some before and after pics that I'll post . And like some of you said, the powder coated surface will outlast a painted surface . Tough stuff ! I've also included pics of the mower deck and snowthrower which are also powder coated .

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#8 zippy1 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2014 - 12:11 AM

Holy smokes that is impressive. Do you own the equipment for powder coating? Because there isn't anyone in my area that would fuss with small pieces.

Again, very nice work :thumbs:


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#9 mike912e OFFLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2014 - 07:43 AM

Holy smokes that is impressive. Do you own the equipment for powder coating? Because there isn't anyone in my area that would fuss with small pieces.

Again, very nice work :thumbs:

Zippy1,

    Thank you for the compliment . The man that does my stuff is about fifteen miles away . He will do as small as bolt and screw heads but I don't recommend that because they won't fit standard sized wrenches after they are done . By experience it's easier to spray paint the screws and bolts, even after they are installed if your very careful . I take a picture of each part with instructions on what to coat and what to omit . Helps him do the part the way I need it to be done . There is also special high temperature tape that can be used , but it's quite expensive . Regular old masking tape works quite well and doesn't leave as much tape residue as some other tapes leave .

Hope this helps . Check around, there just might be someone within a manageable driving distance you could work with .

Mike


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#10 mike912e OFFLINE  

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Posted September 29, 2014 - 12:13 PM

Here are some before and after pics of the carb after cleaning with bead blasting , paint thinner and finally wire brushing . Ready to reinstall when the time comes . I did not disassemble it because it is such a great running carb which doesn't leak and gives me excellent service .

I also removed the gas tank from the tractor today and applied penetrating oil to the steering shaft after removing the nut and cap from the steering wheel . I'll let it sit over night and see if it will come off tomorrow . I need to get the steering out as well as remove the battery holder/instrument column so it can go to the powder coater with the other items I have staged . I also bead blasted numerous small parts like the linkage from the carb to the governor arm, throttle cable idler and spring , gorilla bolts , etc . They were primered yesterday and yellow paint applied to day . I'll let them dry overnight and stage them for installation when the time comes . I hope to get to the engine and trans later this week . I plan of pressure washing the engine/trans to get the major amount of grease and oil off before cleaning them for paint .

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#11 mike912e OFFLINE  

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Posted September 30, 2014 - 06:29 PM

Made a little progress today . Pressure washed frame , engine and transmission ( twice ) , removed the engine for stripping and cleaning prior to painting and the front axle can be added to the growing pile of powder coat items . The front spindles will also be going to the powder coater as well . The driveline will be next along with the brake/clutch shaft and linkage . Then the transmission and creeper can come out for final cleaning ,stripping and paint . I'm trying to get as much done before the really cold weather sets in as my garage is not heated . I still haven't been able to get the steering wheel to come off . I might have to attack this problem from a different angle . I might have to take the steering shaft out of the tube and gear box and drive the shaft out of the steering wheel that way . I'll let you know how it worked out !

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#12 Gabriel OFFLINE  

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Posted September 30, 2014 - 08:39 PM

Made a little progress today . Pressure washed frame , engine and transmission ( twice ) , removed the engine for stripping and cleaning prior to painting and the front axle can be added to the growing pile of powder coat items . The front spindles will also be going to the powder coater as well . The driveline will be next along with the brake/clutch shaft and linkage . Then the transmission and creeper can come out for final cleaning ,stripping and paint . I'm trying to get as much done before the really cold weather sets in as my garage is not heated . I still haven't been able to get the steering wheel to come off . I might have to attack this problem from a different angle . I might have to take the steering shaft out of the tube and gear box and drive the shaft out of the steering wheel that way . I'll let you know how it worked out !

It looks and sounds like you made quite a bit of progress! Thanks for the pics.


Edited by Gabriel, September 30, 2014 - 08:40 PM.

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#13 mike912e OFFLINE  

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Posted October 01, 2014 - 04:15 PM

All,

   Well, the old 104 is torn down almost as far as possible . The frame is separated from the engine and trans . I'll drain the gear oil from the trans , remove the shifter and rear cover and plug the vent hole for the creeper and get the whole thing sand blasted . Then primer and a final top coat of Cub yellow paint . Then add my restored transmission I.D. plate , fill her back up with gear oil after reinstalling the rear cover and gear shift mechanism .

   I usually use a wire brush wheel in my drill to clean the engine case . Then primer and paint before adding the powder coated tins and finally add the new Kohler engine tag . I'll stage them on the lift in preparation of joining to the newly powder coated frame as soon as I get it back . I dropped the wheels off at the local dealer to have them broken down so I can take the rims along to have them powder coated with the mountain of other stuff . I'll get it all staged and take pics with detailed instructions before it all goes to the powder coater . That way I have a record of the items I took to him , he knows what areas to omit the powder coat from and I'll know for sure that I have all I dropped off when it comes time to bring it all home .

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#14 mike912e OFFLINE  

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Posted October 01, 2014 - 04:41 PM

All ( again ) ,

    Here are some close-up pics of the new Kohler engine tag I made and the restored trans tag for my 104 Cub . I've also done the same for my 72 and 124 Cubs . I had my supplier make a stamp that replicates the original information on the trans tag and after repairing it I have him re-stamp the original information in black epoxy paint .

   The original Kohler engine tag is on the left , my new engine tag is in the middle and the restored trans tag is on the right .

Any questions ?

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#15 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted October 01, 2014 - 06:08 PM

Those tags look mighty nice! If the tractor looks half that good, you have completed a great job!


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