Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

Bolens 1886 Engine Swap.


  • Please log in to reply
21 replies to this topic

#1 TokyoDrift99 OFFLINE  

TokyoDrift99
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 59603
  • 80 Thanks
  • 112 posts
  • Location: Vermont, USA

Posted September 24, 2014 - 08:30 PM

So I have not been able to figure out why my bolens 1886 over revs, but nobody has been able to help me. As much as I hate to do it I may be swapping a 16 horse vanguard v twin from a cub cadet 3000 series in my 1886. My questions are how hard will this be, and what will I need to do this. I would much rather keep the Kohler in there as it runs good but I can't figure out the throttle and nobody seems to be able to help.

#2 superaben OFFLINE  

superaben
  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 11204
  • 7,664 Thanks
  • 5,677 posts
  • Location: Shenandoah Valley, VA

Posted September 24, 2014 - 08:57 PM

I would work out that Kohler if I was you.  A Vanguard will never last as long as a K series Kohler.

 

What all have we checked off our list of possibilities for the over revving issue?

 

Have you gone through the speed setting procedure in the K482/ K Series Twin service manual?  If so, is the throttle cable in the right hole?

 

Its easy to mess that up.

 

Ben W.



#3 TokyoDrift99 OFFLINE  

TokyoDrift99
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 59603
  • 80 Thanks
  • 112 posts
  • Location: Vermont, USA

Posted September 24, 2014 - 09:09 PM

I have no Idea if the cable, or the governor spring is in the right hole, as I ripped the engine out and forgot to take a picture when I replaced the starter :hitting_self_roller: . I have had no luck getting any info. I fixed my carburetor I think... Like I said I really want to keep the kohler in there, but I need a snowblowing rig for the winter. I will list all the stuff I've done.

  • Cleaned carb
  • set points
  • replaced float (I had a briggs twin over rev because of a bad float) 
  • changed oil and filter (not relavent I know) 

I may have done other things but I cant remember. 


  • superaben said thank you

#4 nbent OFFLINE  

nbent

    customizer

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 8320
  • 628 Thanks
  • 520 posts
  • Location: amalga, UT

Posted September 24, 2014 - 10:43 PM

i would download the manual and adjust the cable and governor to its setting

 

 

heres the manual  http://gardentractor...ice-manual-ocr/



#5 TokyoDrift99 OFFLINE  

TokyoDrift99
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 59603
  • 80 Thanks
  • 112 posts
  • Location: Vermont, USA

Posted September 25, 2014 - 07:05 AM

I have the manual I never saw any adjustments, but I'll look again thanks.

#6 Rock farmer ONLINE  

Rock farmer
  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 10759
  • 1,119 Thanks
  • 1,177 posts
  • Location: York Maine

Posted September 25, 2014 - 08:02 AM

From your first posting on this subject, I see in the middle picture, that your throttle linkage is attached to a hole on the bottom of the butterfly flange.
I believe it should be attached to the top hole on that flange.

Only three things can make an engine "over rev".
Too much fuel.
Too much air.
Or, incorrect throttle linkage connections.

I wouldn't even consider a re-power in this case.
I can't imagine how you would connect the Power take off to run that two stage snow blower.
You need to be patient and just keep asking questions.

Joe
  • superaben said thank you

#7 Auburn David OFFLINE  

Auburn David
  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 61865
  • 2,754 Thanks
  • 1,962 posts
  • Location: Alabama

Posted September 25, 2014 - 08:12 AM

leaking carb to manifold gasket can cause over rev I have found.



#8 bhts OFFLINE  

bhts

    Bob's Lawn and Garden Tractors

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Sponsor
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 945
  • 1,413 Thanks
  • 2,115 posts
  • Location: ohio

Posted September 25, 2014 - 08:51 AM

Looked at the pics of what you have on the other post and I see a couple things wrong. First push the throttle cable complete in and hook it up. It hooks between the to nuts on the linkage closest to the flywheel and the nuts lock it in place. Next the big spring hooks to the hole just below that. Next on the other linkage the spring hooks to the 3rd hole from the bottom going up which should set it at 3600rpm with no load or close. Next tighten up the linkage that runs to the carb as it looks to be loose. Let us know it this starts getting you close.


  • superaben and nglauer have said thanks

#9 nglauer OFFLINE  

nglauer
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 46660
  • 390 Thanks
  • 350 posts
  • Location: SE Ohio

Posted September 25, 2014 - 12:32 PM

Looked at the pics of what you have on the other post and I see a couple things wrong. First push the throttle cable complete in and hook it up. It hooks between the to nuts on the linkage closest to the flywheel and the nuts lock it in place. Next the big spring hooks to the hole just below that. Next on the other linkage the spring hooks to the 3rd hole from the bottom going up which should set it at 3600rpm with no load or close. Next tighten up the linkage that runs to the carb as it looks to be loose. Let us know it this starts getting you close.

 

I agree with Bob, I think it should be a simple fix... much easier than swapping motors. 



#10 TokyoDrift99 OFFLINE  

TokyoDrift99
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 59603
  • 80 Thanks
  • 112 posts
  • Location: Vermont, USA

Posted September 25, 2014 - 12:32 PM

Looked at the pics of what you have on the other post and I see a couple things wrong. First push the throttle cable complete in and hook it up. It hooks between the to nuts on the linkage closest to the flywheel and the nuts lock it in place. Next the big spring hooks to the hole just below that. Next on the other linkage the spring hooks to the 3rd hole from the bottom going up which should set it at 3600rpm with no load or close. Next tighten up the linkage that runs to the carb as it looks to be loose. Let us know it this starts getting you close.

  

leaking carb to manifold gasket can cause over rev I have found.

  

From your first posting on this subject, I see in the middle picture, that your throttle linkage is attached to a hole on the bottom of the butterfly flange.
I believe it should be attached to the top hole on that flange.
Only three things can make an engine "over rev".
Too much fuel.
Too much air.
Or, incorrect throttle linkage connections.
I wouldn't even consider a re-power in this case.
I can't imagine how you would connect the Power take off to run that two stage snow blower.
You need to be patient and just keep asking questions.
Joe

Ok, I will try all this stuff when I get home from school. Thanks for the advice guys.
  • Auburn David said thank you

#11 farmerall ONLINE  

farmerall
  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 8266
  • 2,148 Thanks
  • 1,447 posts
  • Location: McDonald Pa

Posted September 25, 2014 - 05:36 PM

 A Vanguard will never last as long as a K series Kohler.

 

 

 

That's not always true. With proper maintenance Vangaurds will last a long time. We have two Vangaurds at work that are high hour engines. The first is a 16hp that made it to 7000 hrs before any major trouble and another with 5000+ still going strong.



#12 superaben OFFLINE  

superaben
  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 11204
  • 7,664 Thanks
  • 5,677 posts
  • Location: Shenandoah Valley, VA

Posted September 25, 2014 - 07:59 PM

That's not always true. With proper maintenance Vangaurds will last a long time. We have two Vangaurds at work that are high hour engines. The first is a 16hp that made it to 7000 hrs before any major trouble and another with 5000+ still going strong.

 

I don't deny that, since I personally know of two myself that are almost at the diesel status as far as hours go but still pumping.  However a Vanguard is still aluminum and the K series is still cast iron.  That says something to me as far as the quality goes.  If a Vanguard was cast iron with an adjustable carburetor I might think different.

 

I'm biased as an old engine guy, but that's how I think.

 

However, if I had to repower a machine, I would have a problem choosing between a Vanguard and (some, not all) Kawasakis.

 

Ben W.

 

Ben W.



#13 TokyoDrift99 OFFLINE  

TokyoDrift99
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 59603
  • 80 Thanks
  • 112 posts
  • Location: Vermont, USA

Posted September 25, 2014 - 10:06 PM

OK I got the link linkage hooked up, I will have to wait until tomorrow to try it out.
  • Rock farmer said thank you

#14 TokyoDrift99 OFFLINE  

TokyoDrift99
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 59603
  • 80 Thanks
  • 112 posts
  • Location: Vermont, USA

Posted September 25, 2014 - 10:10 PM

That's not always true. With proper maintenance Vangaurds will last a long time. We have two Vangaurds at work that are high hour engines. The first is a 16hp that made it to 7000 hrs before any major trouble and another with 5000+ still going strong.

That is with proper maintenance..... I bought the cub 3165 with the vanguard for $80, keep in mind this tractor cost $6k or so in 1998. The guy wasn't sure when he changed the oil last and the oil filter had rust on it. There was maybe a quart of oil in the engine when I drained it.

#15 stetson OFFLINE  

stetson
  • Member
  • Member No: 59357
  • 46 Thanks
  • 49 posts
  • Location: Tn

Posted September 26, 2014 - 12:12 PM

check your carb for a fuel bowl sticking or needle sticking fast way to check it is does the oil smell like gas? or does it smoke a lot? and on other hand its probably a throttle cable or a governor issue simple fix I don't have any k motors on my bolons or id be happy to send you a pick






Top