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Wisconsin TRA-12D


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23 replies to this topic

#16 awol OFFLINE  

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Posted February 14, 2011 - 03:15 PM

Sorry my fault :wallbanging:

I forgot they also used Walbro carbs on the TRA-12D's LOL


The carb is the right one:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]10441[/ATTACH]

Thats the one I have! thanks I do have two parts of it I just need 136a and 136e.

#17 Bigdaddydon ONLINE  

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Posted February 14, 2011 - 06:17 PM

Disregard this Post


Brian,

Do you have a pic of the bracket that holds the choke and throttle cables. In this pic it is just out of view.

#18 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted February 14, 2011 - 08:50 PM

I'll get a pic tomorrow.

#19 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted February 15, 2011 - 07:53 AM

Here you go:

Attached Thumbnails

  • 401 002.jpg
  • 401 005.jpg
  • 401 003.jpg
  • 401 001.jpg


#20 WQDL753 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 16, 2011 - 01:39 AM

All of the bolt removal methods are great, used every one more than I can remember.
The wax doesn't penetrate better, but it creates a seperation between the two parts, and I've even used one of the kids crayons before.
Weather you use pb-blaster wax or something else, you want to put heat on the bolt, tap it some, and even using vicegrips, file or grind two flats on it first so you don't spin, the more you spin, the less you have to hold on to. More than one heating, lubing and tapping may be needed to get it free.
Be patient, the last bolt I machined out for a customer cost 500, granted it was a 2.5" bolt. hehe

#21 awol OFFLINE  

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Posted February 17, 2011 - 07:49 AM

I applied some penetrating oil yesterday and let it sit over night, I went out this morning and taped it with a hammer and a couple of times and it came out with my fingers. It must not have been seized at all, just glad it's out:yelclap: .

#22 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted February 17, 2011 - 08:19 AM

Glad to hear it came out easily :dancingbanana:

#23 caseguy OFFLINE  

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Posted February 17, 2011 - 05:13 PM

I'm glad you got the bolt out easily! That makes life a lot easier LOL! As far as getting a seized bolt out, I have always had better luck heating (expanding) the part that the bolt is stuck in. It shouldn't require much heat unless it's rusted in place. You should gain 2 to 3 thousandths of clearance at 325* F. If you heat it too much the heat transfers to the bolt and you have to let it cool and start over. This is just my $.02, but it always works for me, unless as I said before, it's badly rusted in. In that case patience, tapping, penetrating oil etc.

#24 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted February 17, 2011 - 07:32 PM

Well I've never been so lucky with a bolt that looked like that one! But glad luck was on your side! :thumbs:




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