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#1 HDWildBill ONLINE  

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Posted September 16, 2014 - 03:35 PM

I know this isn't tractor related but I figured we have some really good mechanics on here and maybe someone has seen this problem before or can point me in the right direction.

 

As you may know our Son just bought a used 2006 Suzuki Blvd.  As I was going over it I noticed the front brake pads were worn.  So we got a new set of EBC Double H pad's.  Took the old ones off and installed the new pad's.  Cleaned the caliper in the process.  Went to pump the front brake lever to get pressure back in the system and nothing.  Lever goes all the way to the bar and virtually no pressure although the brakes do activate (I can spin the wheel and hit the brake lever and it does stop the wheel).  Loosen the mounting bolts and I now have a full lever and pressure.  Tighten the bolts down and nothing again.  I put on of the old pads on with a new pad and it works fine but put the two new pads on and nothing when everything is tightened down. 

 

I'm thinking it has something to do with the thickness of the new pad's but I'm not sure what.  I have cleaned the caliper, pistons, bled the brakes (just to make sure).  I have changed out I don't know how many front and rear brakes over the year, (Just recently changed out my front brakes on my bike) and I have never seen a problem like this.  This is driving me nuts so any help would be appreciated.



#2 EricFromPa ONLINE  

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Posted September 16, 2014 - 04:06 PM

Brakes may need to be Bled or your Master cylinder is on the way out.

 

 

I would try bleeding it 1st After Reinstalling your new pads.

 

 

Take the cap off of the reservoir and try to Bleed out All of the fluid in the Caliper till it comes out Crystal Clear.Add more Fresh fluid as you go.Try not to over fill it of you'll have a mess.

 

 

You bleed them just like a car but you want to pump it up Then Hold and crack the bleeder loose then tighten the bleeder then release the Brake.

 

Make sure that you do not let go of the Brake leaver while the Bleeder is open.It will suck Air into the Caliper and you'll have to start all over.

 

 

OR you can use one of those Brake bleeder pumps like this one from Harbor Freight.

http://www.harborfre...-kit-69328.html

 

With those you simply crack the bleeder loose and pump it till you no longer see air in the Clear hose.

 

 

 

If you Bleed it and it's still not pumping up then the Master Cylinder will either need to be Rebuilt or Replaced.Rebuild kits are around $20-25 and a New master cylinder can cost upwards of $150 depending where you get it.

 

My neighbor was having issues with the brakes on his Harley FXR and we tried to rebuild it but there was a good bit of scoring and wear in the master cylinder.It would not pump up even after putting the Kit into it.



#3 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted September 16, 2014 - 04:12 PM

Bill, if the old pads work and the new ones don't, it almost hast to be thickness or alignment.
Especially if loosening the bolts make a difference.
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#4 HANKG OFFLINE  

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Posted September 16, 2014 - 05:14 PM

If the system has not been opened there should be no need to bleed it, maybe you were given the wrong pads I would check that first it does happen.  Did you adjust the emergency brake for the new pads.



#5 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted September 16, 2014 - 06:08 PM

That is strange, as you already know.  If it were alignment causing binding, it would still build pressure.  If the thicker pads were pushing the piston back in so far as to somehow block the brake fluid inlet, it would still build pressure.  I've had problems getting them bled, but once you have pressure, you should keep it, regardless of those mounting bolts.  This has me stumped.



#6 Rock farmer ONLINE  

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Posted September 16, 2014 - 07:42 PM

Only thing I can think of, is, you've got two different style pads
Lets call them "A" and "B".
You need one "A" and one "B" per wheel.
But, you've got two "A" on one wheel and the two "B" s on the other.

When you use an old pad with a new one, you get the right match.

I would look them over carefully. Maybe there's a mark. Maybe just some slight difference?

Both pads should float and move when the brakes are energized.
It sound to me like one pad is not moving.

Joe
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#7 HDWildBill ONLINE  

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Posted September 16, 2014 - 08:17 PM

Joe, I thought about they weren't moving freely but when they seem OK when I put them on the rotor.  The inside and out side pads look very different, the inside pad (closest to the wheel) has two ears that ride on guide rods.  The out side pad only has one ear. I have compared the new pads with the old ones and even used calipers to measure them.

 

Alan, I'm thinking the same thing it has to do something with Alignment or the thickness.  You can defiantly tell when both new pads are installed and you spin the wheel.   The pads are after-market but if there was problem with them I would think the metric guys would be screaming about them instead of recommending them. 

 

The loosing pressure is what throws me. It really almost feels like when they are installed and tightened down the caliper goes into by-pass mode.  I rode the bike to the soccer game tonight and with one old pad and one new one it had plenty of stopping and brake but that old one needs to come out because it is pretty thin.  Mike is going to ride it for a few days and then we sill try and put the other new pad in and see what happens.  Thanks all.



#8 Bill 76 ONLINE  

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Posted September 16, 2014 - 08:20 PM

Are they single piston or double piston calipers--Just trying to figure something in my head.



#9 HDWildBill ONLINE  

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Posted September 16, 2014 - 08:21 PM

double piston.



#10 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted September 16, 2014 - 08:27 PM

Think the caliper has floating feature on the mount bolts, sometimes with little "boots" over exposed ends, Even when tight, the caliper should float some to allow for wear and uneven disc.  OR, maybe the piston in the caliper is kinda stuck in one spot, has a dirt ridge built up or such and won't allow the puck to go back into the caliper  as far as a new one should. Just like on a car where you have to push the piston back in with a c-clamp, probly need to do same on bike. BUT, the piston and bore has to be clean and mar free to allow it to go in and out easily.



#11 HDWildBill ONLINE  

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Posted September 16, 2014 - 08:32 PM

Thought about that as well, glG.  I cleaned both pistons and made sure they move in and out.  There was a pretty good amount of gunk on the ends of the pistons but they shine now.



#12 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted September 17, 2014 - 06:18 AM

Bill have you done an online search to see if anyone else has found this problem. It will be interesting to find out what's up with it.



#13 skyrydr2 ONLINE  

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Posted September 17, 2014 - 06:32 AM

Pads are a touch too thick and have pushed the pistons too far in where they bypass the oil passage because they are dual piston units.
You may need to sand them a touch to get back the lever. How much do you have to loosen the bolts to get back the lever?
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#14 crittersf1 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 17, 2014 - 06:42 AM

New pads are too thick. Have dealt with this problem more than once.



#15 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted September 17, 2014 - 07:05 AM

I don't understand how too thick a pad would stop pressure from building???  If the passage were blocked by the piston cups being in too far, there would still be pressure.  






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