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The Viking Project


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#16 jdcrawler OFFLINE  

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Posted September 18, 2014 - 01:28 PM

The starter/generator rebuild kit came today and I got that all back together and it works good.
When I tried to fit that cast iron mounting bracket to it I discovered the mounting bracket is about one inch shorter than my starter/generator.

My starter/generator is off a 10HP Wisconsin with a horizontal shaft.
I'm so use to this style of starter/generator that I thought all engines used this same style.
After doing some researching, I found out that cast mounting bracket is off a Simplicity or early Broadmoor with a vertical shaft Briggs & Stratton.
Apparently the Briggs & Stratton uses a different starter/generator.



#17 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted September 18, 2014 - 03:39 PM

Make a bushing for it!


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#18 jdcrawler OFFLINE  

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Posted September 18, 2014 - 04:24 PM

The problem with making a spacer is that the back of the starter/generator would be hanging 1 inch off the back of the mounting bracket with only a 5/16 bolt holding everything together.

It wouldn't be very strong like that and I would not be satisfied with how it looked anyway.

 

I got back on ebay and bought another bracket.

I made sure this one is the right length before I bought it ( isn't hindsight a wonderful thing ! ).


Edited by jdcrawler, September 18, 2014 - 04:26 PM.

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#19 jdcrawler OFFLINE  

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Posted September 20, 2014 - 01:50 PM

Trying to figure out where to mount the battery and the other electric parts for this conversion.
As you can see in this photo, the top of the transmission is flat and would be an excellent area to mount the battery.
The problem is that it would be directly under the gas tank and that is definitely NOT a good idea !

SAM_0073_zps9372fd33.jpg


So I decided to move the gas tank and mount it crosswise.
The rear hood flange and the tank mounting brackets have been removed leaving one flat steel bracket that bolts to both sides of the transmission.

SAM_0089_zpsfd4a9062.jpg


The gas tank mounting bracket is then bolted to the top of this flat steel bracket.

SAM_0090_zps49b05da8.jpg


The gas tank now sets crosswise leaving the space on the top of the transmission available.

SAM_0092_zps7d2c3ab6.jpg


This is where the battery is going to set.

SAM_0093_zps2c61d729.jpg


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#20 jdcrawler OFFLINE  

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Posted September 21, 2014 - 08:07 AM

Figuring out how to mount the starter switch in something that will keep the wires covered.
After all, what good is a switch with a key if the back of the switch is exposed so you can just jump across the terminals ?

Marie had an old metal file card box that she was no longer using.
I mounted the switch and the amp gauge in the bottom of the box.
This leaves room for a light switch if I decide later to put headlights on the crawler.

SAM_0094_zpsabe497a7.jpg


With the lid closed, the back of the box is completely sealed.
Once I figure just how this will be mounted, I'll make it so the back of the box is secured with screws.

SAM_0096_zpsd8477306.jpg


The back opens up to easily run the wiring.

SAM_0095_zpsb8117104.jpg


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#21 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted September 21, 2014 - 08:14 AM

I like your box for the wiring. Thats a good idea! Good move on the fuel tank. Looks better sitting that way!


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#22 jdcrawler OFFLINE  

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Posted September 21, 2014 - 11:26 AM

The Standard Twin tractor had the gas tank setting sideways like I have the tank now.
When they made the Viking tractor, the turned the gas tank so it was in-line and built a hood and grille around the engine.
They also added what I think of as an "open tool box" that sat on top of the transmission and right at the end of the gas tank.
Here is a photo of the tool box.   The round area at the top fit up under the gas tank.

SAM_0097_zps8c44501e.jpg


I've decided to keep this tool box and mount the switch box on the side.

Before I mounted the switch box, I sanded and primed the side of the tool box.
Eventually this piece will be sand blasted in preparation for re-finishing but this way the area between the two boxes is already primed.


SAM_0099_zps720a5569.jpg

SAM_0098_zps0c6a6584.jpg


The switch box is mounted by the "lid" so the main part of the box opens up to get to the wiring.

SAM_0101_zps8242158a.jpg


When it is closed, the lower corner of the switch box is bolted to the side of the tool box.
This keeps the switch box from opening up and adds support.

SAM_0100_zps6c1f6774.jpg


Edited by jdcrawler, September 21, 2014 - 11:51 AM.

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#23 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted September 22, 2014 - 06:17 AM

Too bad the tool box isn't big enough for the battery to sit in. Nice spot to mount the switch box!


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#24 LilysDad OFFLINE  

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Posted September 22, 2014 - 07:26 AM

I think pop rivets are probably not historically correct! :D (Just sayin')


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#25 jdcrawler OFFLINE  

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Posted September 22, 2014 - 11:08 AM

I think pop rivets are probably not historically correct! :D (Just sayin')

 

That's all right,  12 volt electric start on a 1939 Standard Twin engine is not historically correct either. 

 

If I had access to a welder or torch, I would have welded or brazed the switch box onto the tool box.

... But I don't ... so I didn't.

However, that is something that I can correct once I get a shop set back up.

There are a lot of extra holes that have been drilled in the tool box that need to be filled also.


Edited by jdcrawler, September 22, 2014 - 11:13 AM.

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#26 jdcrawler OFFLINE  

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Posted September 23, 2014 - 08:57 AM

Started making the battery box by measuring out and cutting 45 degree notches in a piece of angle iron.

SAM_0102_zpsd81db8e6.jpg


Then the angle iron is bent to form the battery box.

SAM_0103_zps660ca62e.jpg


The ends of the angle iron are joined with a strip of metal that is fastened on with countersunk screws.

SAM_0104_zps5ceae07b.jpg


The screws are cut off flush with the surface of the nuts.
Later the ends of the box will be welded together.   
The metal strip and screws will be removed and the holes welded up.

SAM_0105_zpsa08d4b90.jpg


After the battery box is primed, it is bolted to the top of the trans-axle.

SAM_0109_zps52b8b05d.jpg


A piece of 1/4 inch plywood is fit in place to make the bottom of the battery box flush with the top of the mounting bolts.

SAM_0110_zps137aaea5.jpg


The battery is then set in place.

SAM_0108_zps8dff0bcd.jpg


I offset the battery box to the right side as far as I could get it so it balances out with the tool box and switch box.

SAM_0111_zpsd8a0ff71.jpg


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#27 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted September 23, 2014 - 09:08 AM

Nice!


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#28 jdcrawler OFFLINE  

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Posted September 23, 2014 - 12:29 PM

I picked up a 10HP engine from a 60's Bolens that was complete with all the electrical items and the wiring.
There was a metal plate on top of the engine that had the voltage regulator and starter solenoid attached to it.
I took this metal plate and cut it down so it will fit on the side of the trans axle right below the battery.

SAM_0112_zps575e6dff.jpg


The voltage regulator, starter solenoid and fuse breaker are bolted to the plate.

SAM_0114_zps85a9b503.jpg


Set the battery back in and ran the power cable down to the starter solenoid.
With these electrical parts mounted on this plate, the whole thing can be easily re-located later if needed.

SAM_0116_zps3ec14493.jpg

 


Edited by jdcrawler, September 23, 2014 - 02:39 PM.

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#29 jdcrawler OFFLINE  

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Posted September 23, 2014 - 09:32 PM

I have been thinking about the location of the regulator and solenoid and decided that I do not really like the location that I have them at.
Tomorrow I'm going to relocate them to a less conspicuous spot.
 


Edited by jdcrawler, September 23, 2014 - 09:33 PM.

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#30 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted September 24, 2014 - 12:19 AM

How about beneath the tank in front of the battery area.
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