About a week or two ago I got an ht20 that had been sitting for a couple of years in a barn. The PO said the motor had been rebuilt before he parked it lol. The first thing I did when I got it home was remove the carb and clean it. It was totally caked up with crap. I rebuilt it with kit and even installed new adjustment screws. Changed the fluid in both motor and rear end , along with filters and clean plastic gas tank and replaced the fuel lines. After a little coaxing it started right up . Once I set the adjustment screws as it says in the manual , I got on for a ride . first thing I noticed was the motion petal was real touchy. no easing in to forward or reverse , it lerches. When I drove it back to the garage and shut it off . it continued to run for a few seconds and back fired a few times . Also it seemed like it was real hot, much hotter than my 1886. Any ideas ?
Hot Running Ht20
Posted September 14, 2014 - 02:53 PM
Posted September 14, 2014 - 03:04 PM
does it seem to run smooth?I had a Kohler 20 that was doing that and it was the shear pin was bent causing it to be just a hair out of time.
Posted September 14, 2014 - 03:05 PM
the jerking could be the idle is too high(to compensate for the timing being off?)
Posted September 14, 2014 - 03:27 PM
You might check the engine shrouds for junk mice could have packed in it after setting for a few years,might not be cooling it off.
- Auburn David said thank you
Posted September 14, 2014 - 03:35 PM
Posted September 14, 2014 - 03:46 PM
How do I set the timing. I have never done that. Thanks Jim
You dont set the timing,just be sure the shear pin isn't sheared and is in good shape,even this much shear can mess with the timing
- Alc said thank you
Posted September 14, 2014 - 03:52 PM
Posted September 14, 2014 - 07:01 PM
Did you replace the points, plugs and condenser while going through everything? I only say this because I had an issue with my HT20 and the Kohler K532. My plugs were slightly off on the gap, and my points were EXTREMELY worn. I thought I had a fuel pump issue causing the tractor to run funny... but after rebuilding the carb nothing changed. Once I replaced the points, condenser, and points rod (or whatever the technical name is) it began to run like new. I did have to tweak my air/fuel adjustments slightly from the factory 2 and 1-1/4 turn settings. I suspect some of that has to do with all the hours on my tractor and the fact that i'm running an electric fuel pump.
p.s. you'll be shocked when you pull the tin off the motor. If a mouse nest isn't hidden.. plenty of grass clippings will be.
- Auburn David said thank you
Posted September 14, 2014 - 07:31 PM
Where do I find the shear pin
It on the flywheel(that you will need to pull to check the points)
Posted September 14, 2014 - 08:14 PM
Posted September 15, 2014 - 06:35 PM
Just an update. I decided to start from scratch so I reset the carb to factory settings, reset the points and check the gap on the plugs to .25 which I had set at .30 ( there is conflicting info .025 and .30 my 1886 is set at .30 and runs great). When I started it up it ran terrible , so I turned the main adjustment screw out and kept going out and all of a sudden it sounded much better and didn't seem to be nearly as hot. I guess I just didn't turn the screw out far enough , didn't think it would be that far off factory setting. The short adjustment screw seemed to have no effect at all turned way out or in . Anyway it got dark and old lay was getting pissed about dinner so Ill adjust a little more tomorrow. when I shut it off I only got a back fire , no running for a few seconds. Any advice on fine tuning the carb would be great
Posted September 15, 2014 - 06:52 PM
When your adjusting the carb remember to get the engine warmed up before making any adjustments, especially fine tuning. (If the engine wont run at all of course you will have to make an initial before it warms) Also it is best to turn the screws slowly waiting a few seconds before turning the screw again.
- fogler12538 said thank you
Posted September 15, 2014 - 08:07 PM