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#1 sacsr OFFLINE  

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Posted September 12, 2014 - 09:35 PM

I am considering selling my 16ft double axle and buy an 18ft trailer. I have seen the wheels positioned in different areas of the trailer. My 16ft has the wheels set pretty far back. I noticed this one in the picture has where's set farther up. Anybody have an opinion, experience, or preference on tire position?
image.jpg

Edited by sacsr, September 12, 2014 - 09:43 PM.

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#2 Cat385B ONLINE  

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Posted September 12, 2014 - 09:40 PM

If you tow with a half ton, that's the style of trailer I would recommend. I prefer having a balanced trailer, and adjusting the load to set the tongue weight. I don't haul anything so big that I need to have a trailer with axles set towards the back so much. But, haul a skidsteer and throw an attachment up front, you hope the axles are as far back as possible.

 

Looking at the pic, what is the usable bed width on that trailer? 82", 84"? It looks very nice.


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#3 Sparky OFFLINE  

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Posted September 12, 2014 - 09:48 PM

You do have to consider how your rig is perceived to handle bounce on trip by others ,My BIL gets comments about too much tail bobble because he prefers neutral tongue weight . Public comments are one thing .  L.E. has their standards .


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#4 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  

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Posted September 12, 2014 - 10:04 PM

I prefer a longer wheelbase on larger trailers, unless they are designed to tilt. With that said, the small trailer needs the axle more centered so you can load it evenly, but the small trailers don't matter as much because it's not hauling over one ton (usually).
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#5 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted September 12, 2014 - 10:05 PM

You will want to look at your max loads and see where you are ratings wise. Tires, truck, don't forget to think outside the box.

Our 18 has the wheels further back, great for hauling heavier stuff with the 250, but it's easy to get the load all up front with 4 GT's. they are all in front of the axels and it gives a lot of bob and weave to the ride. I have pulled over to move stuff back to prevent seasickness.

If the biggest load you're going to haul can be handled by the trailer (ratings) then I would go with 'centered' axels... If you're going to haul big stuff, look at one with the axels further back.
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#6 sacsr OFFLINE  

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Posted September 12, 2014 - 10:22 PM

If you tow with a half ton, that's the style of trailer I would recommend. I prefer having a balanced trailer, and adjusting the load to set the tongue weight. I don't haul anything so big that I need to have a trailer with axles set towards the back so much. But, haul a skidsteer and throw an attachment up front, you hope the axles are as far back as possible.
 
Looking at the pic, what is the usable bed width on that trailer? 82", 84"? It looks very nice.


84" bed- yes this one looks pretty good. It's a used trailer selling locally.

#7 sacsr OFFLINE  

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Posted September 12, 2014 - 10:30 PM

My heaviest piece of equipment is the Yanmar 187 with fel- usually have the rotary mower too. One reason for asking about the wheel placement is because loading two bush hogs up front and two toward the back, a lot of the weight is placed on the tail of my F150. I felt like the dual wheels should be shouldering more of the weight. You can probably tell by the angle of the trailer where all the weight is going in this picture,
image.jpg

Edited by sacsr, September 13, 2014 - 05:14 AM.

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#8 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted September 12, 2014 - 11:22 PM

Scott, the trailer you have pictured is set up just like my 18' car hauler that I use for tractor hauling. I usually load it up so it's balanced, but it will work the truck up and down going over dips and swells in the road. I don't notice it that much in my F-250, bot when I pull it with my Yukon it is noticeable. I would look at a load distribution hitch if I was going to pull my 18' behind my Yukon all the time. As long as you have heavy enough rated tires and a good trailer brake control you should be OK using this type of hitch, it will also stop side sway that you can get sometime on uneven roads.

 

L D Hitch.jpg


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#9 sacsr OFFLINE  

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Posted September 13, 2014 - 05:21 AM

I do have the distribution hitch, and it is definitely the ticket when I load the trailer heavily.

The trailer in the first picture has the other axle set up, I am considering going to look it it today. Just looking for the pro's and con's to this set up. My trailer is probably 15 years old and getting due for a make over, which I figure will cost me $500 or more dollars. That and the fact I would like that extra 2 ft is why I am considering making the change.

#10 skyrydr2 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 13, 2014 - 05:36 AM

Tires and suspension, tires and suspension, tires and suspension!!!! You need to tow with the proper tow rig!!! Or your setting your self up for a bad time. Tires should be a E load rating even on a 1/2 ton. This will help with sway, also wheel base, the longer the tow rig the better too. But not as important as tires! If your truck is a towing capable rig then tow by its rated capacity. We tow almost every weekend to tractor pulls and during the week to job sites. The single best thing we noticed was tires.
We have 5 different trailers ranging from 12'- 24' and all of them have to be loaded differently of coarse, but what we did notice was how different tires made such a huge difference in sway and bob ( we call this the hully gully) .
Trucks doing the towing are all rugged riggs. 2500 GMC Dirty Max, ( duramax diesel), A Dodge Ram 4500 crew cab and only out of desperation when nothing else is available, an F350 ( guttless power for a diesel)
No longer have capable 1/2 tons as the only 2 are both v 6 powered fuel pigs!! A toyota tundra and silverado....
The load bearing hitches are great , but a pain to get set correctly and limit your turning a bit. One thing I have noticed when I used to tow using one, was how it would make the entire truck ungulate up and down pounding both front and rear suspensions! This was with a 1/2 ton ext. Cab GMC Sierra with a max tow package towing a 37.5' travel trailer. This is why I say tires and suspension!
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#11 petrj6 ONLINE  

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Posted September 13, 2014 - 06:00 AM

   I agree with allot of what I have read here, but I would like to add one point.  I have never towed a trailer I have not built myself, and of al the trailers I have built there are a few tips to watch out for.  the black trailer picture looks like the axle is set to far back and makes it to easy to tongue load the trailer, the white trailer looks a bit more correct. as a general rule measure the working bed space(not the dovetail, or the tongue) then get the center line of that, your axles will want to be around 12" to the rear of that for anything over a 14' trailer ad a little bit when your trailer gets over 18' say 2" for every foot over 18'.  that will be a general rule, it will keep the tongue of your trailer heavy enough to tow empty and will ensure a good even load unless you load it like a hammerhead.

   As always it is the way you load your own trailer that matters, if you load it like a fool you will get a foolish ride!  and I have had quite a few foolish rides.  Good luck!

    the only thing I see about that white trailer I don't like are the sides, when the sides are welded on like that it limits the way you can load the trailer. I made removable sides and love them!


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#12 sacsr OFFLINE  

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Posted September 13, 2014 - 06:19 AM

Thanks guys, good stuff!
I have been loading trailers for over 20 years, so weight distribution is something I understand. Rarely do I need to adjust my load be cause I try to center my weight on the trailer. With my old trailer you can see the load needs to be farther back to center it correctly. This has been a good trailer for me, just thinking it is time to upgrade and want the next trailer to last me 10-15 years.
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#13 Traill95 ONLINE  

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Posted September 13, 2014 - 08:19 AM

   I agree with allot of what I have read here, but I would like to add one point.  I have never towed a trailer I have not built myself, and of al the trailers I have built there are a few tips to watch out for.  the black trailer picture looks like the axle is set to far back and makes it to easy to tongue load the trailer, the white trailer looks a bit more correct. as a general rule measure the working bed space(not the dovetail, or the tongue) then get the center line of that, your axles will want to be around 12" to the rear of that for anything over a 14' trailer ad a little bit when your trailer gets over 18' say 2" for every foot over 18'.  that will be a general rule, it will keep the tongue of your trailer heavy enough to tow empty and will ensure a good even load unless you load it like a hammerhead.

   As always it is the way you load your own trailer that matters, if you load it like a fool you will get a foolish ride!  and I have had quite a few foolish rides.  Good luck!

    the only thing I see about that white trailer I don't like are the sides, when the sides are welded on like that it limits the way you can load the trailer. I made removable sides and love them!

What he says. I have made several trailers and I have used this formula.  It has always worked for me and when loading a trailer I always watch the safety chains as to how much closer they get to the ground as a judge of weight load. after a few times loading this way you get a sense of load weight.


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#14 KC9KAS OFFLINE  

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Posted September 13, 2014 - 09:14 AM

Scott, the trailer you have pictured is set up just like my 18' car hauler that I use for tractor hauling. I usually load it up so it's balanced, but it will work the truck up and down going over dips and swells in the road. I don't notice it that much in my F-250, bot when I pull it with my Yukon it is noticeable. I would look at a load distribution hitch if I was going to pull my 18' behind my Yukon all the time. As long as you have heavy enough rated tires and a good trailer brake control you should be OK using this type of hitch, it will also stop side sway that you can get sometime on uneven roads.

 

attachicon.gifL D Hitch.jpg

A weight distribution hitch is great with the anti-sway attachemnt, BUT.....Remove the anti-sway attachment BEFORE you do any backing & turning! (At the same time)

A good friend of mine (with travel trailer) said he destroyed  his anti-sway attachment while backing, and advised me to remove mine before backing & turning.


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#15 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted September 13, 2014 - 11:09 AM

I have a heavy 12,000 lb 18ft trailer and it is more centered. Biggest issue is the bouncing I get when empty, guess cause springs so stiff. Specially just starting out with flat spots in tires.  I have had Load range E tires on my 1/2 ton for it, and now it rides rougher, but did take sway away. I had to use a Range lV insert to get the 2-5/16 ball to work.  Truck should really be a 3/4 ton and will be on next one for this size trailer. Lots of tiedowns  are nice, I have added many more to mine. I have the big tilt-up ramps, which are heavy to lift and had to make my center one.  Think the Dovetail is a must, mine is longer 4ft or so. I can back this trailer up real easy and put right where I want every time. My little GT one I have to back up and forward all the time to get it in straight, hard to back.  I don't have load balance on my rig, never saw need for one, even with big tractors or heavy loads for swap meets. Electric brakes a MUST, makes big difference for sure  when loaded.


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