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Jac Chief Speed Reducer Removal


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#1 VintageIronCollector OFFLINE  

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Posted August 31, 2014 - 04:07 PM

How to I remove the speed reducer? The one on the tranny is junk and I want to put another one on. Thanks for any help

 



#2 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted August 31, 2014 - 08:13 PM

I haven't a clue as to what you are talking about! Didn't know there is such a thing.


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#3 VintageIronCollector OFFLINE  

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Posted August 31, 2014 - 08:52 PM

I haven't a clue as to what you are talking about! Didn't know there is such a thing.

Its where the input shaft is and the large pulley goes on. (The bare metal box on the tranny)

IMG_3807.JPG

IMG_3808.JPG


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#4 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted August 31, 2014 - 09:55 PM

Always thought the pulley coming off whole was the hard part.  That unit looks like three bolts holding it in there and probly pulles out in smooth but tightly fashion??  Isn't there some manuals on here you could look at and print out the few pages you need to do that work?  Don't break that pulley, hard to get and expensive!


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#5 VintageIronCollector OFFLINE  

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Posted September 01, 2014 - 06:55 AM

Always thought the pulley coming off whole was the hard part.  That unit looks like three bolts holding it in there and probly pulles out in smooth but tightly fashion??  Isn't there some manuals on here you could look at and print out the few pages you need to do that work?  Don't break that pulley, hard to get and expensive!

I removed all three bolts and what do I do now? Just take a gear puller and try to pull it off?



#6 Tennblue59 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 11, 2015 - 08:18 PM

I know this is an older post, but just saw it and wondered if you ever got it apart....

 

I can help you partway.... I'm working on one now...

Take out the three bolts. The reducer splits in two clamshell like along the vertical axis where the line runs. It's just held together with a gasket - the interior is supposed to be oil tight to hold an oil reserve. I just took a soft dead blow hammer and taped on the outside front section to loosen the two parts.

 

If you need, I can take pictures tomorrow....

 

That was the easy part.... AND where I stopped today....

 

Once you get the halves split, you can see a splined gear on the shaft into the transmission - it appears to be held on by a circlip. PRoblem is the clip has no ears and is in a recess inside the gear recess - Guessing it sits in a groove in the shaft. BUT is limited space and hard to get in there and get it out of the groove to get it off! I

 

My circlip pliers won't fit in there to push the two sides apart - guessing I'm gonna have to use two mini-scredrivers or small punches or something similar. Just working in tight quarters.....

 

Looks like once you get that clip out, the gear will slide right off the shaft and allow the back half of the reducer case to come off - then you can continue with the gearcase split.

 

Hope that helps - I can send pics, etc - just pm me...


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#7 VintageIronCollector OFFLINE  

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Posted January 11, 2015 - 08:19 PM

I know this is an older post, but just saw it and wondered if you ever got it apart....

 

I can help you partway.... I'm working on one now...

Take out the three bolts. The reducer splits in two clamshell like along the vertical axis where the line runs. It's just held together with a gasket - the interior is supposed to be oil tight to hold an oil reserve. I just took a soft dead blow hammer and taped on the outside front section to loosen the two parts.

 

If you need, I can take pictures tomorrow....

 

That was the easy part.... AND where I stopped today....

 

Once you get the halves split, you can see a splined gear on the shaft into the transmission - it appears to be held on by a circlip. PRoblem is the clip has no ears and is in a recess inside the gear recess - Guessing it sits in a groove in the shaft. BUT is limited space and hard to get in there and get it out of the groove to get it off! I

 

My circlip pliers won't fit in there to push the two sides apart - guessing I'm gonna have to use two mini-scredrivers or small punches or something similar. Just working in tight quarters.....

 

Looks like once you get that clip out, the gear will slide right off the shaft and allow the back half of the reducer case to come off - then you can continue with the gearcase split.

 

Hope that helps - I can send pics, etc - just pm me...

Yea I never got this fixed. Thanks for your help so far!


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#8 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted January 12, 2015 - 09:28 AM

Glad someone knows these things!



#9 Tennblue59 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 12, 2015 - 07:11 PM

Since a picture is worth a thousand words.....

Here is a picture of the top half of the reducer (reenacting the takeoff)
20150112_144243.jpg

Here is the part left on the transaxle - where the evil little circlip lives....
20150112_144325.jpg

And a shot of the removed part - note the thrust washer that you have to keep from losing.
20150112_144257.jpg

Not sure if you can see it, but here is the circlip that you have to coax out. I wasn't able to work on it any today, otherwise I would be adding a picture with the back half off - maybe tomorrow.....
20150112_144211.jpg

By the way, as I said, this housing is oil tight to hold lube for the gears - here is a picture of the fill hole.

20150112_144309.jpg
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#10 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted January 12, 2015 - 07:20 PM

Thanks for the pics! Since we don't have a manual for these, we may have to pin this!

 

EDIT: I pinned this thread. Who made this rear end? Is it a Hydro-Gear? Sure would like to find a manual for it.


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#11 Tennblue59 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 13, 2015 - 09:04 AM

The gear assembly itself is a peerless 2300 - same as used in the Deere 100 and 200 series gear drive tractors. BUT the housing is unique to the Jacobsen - haven't found anything else that uses this casing so far (may be others, but I'm not aware of any in my limited search....).

The input shaft and brake assembly are on opposite sides from what is used on the deere case, so the openings in the Jacobsen housing are different. I don't know at this point if the shafts themselves are different, or if you could just use the deere shafts and flip them over....

The peerless manual is available for free (I think it is on here as well?) and lists all of their assemblies in one manual - leaves a lot to be desired as far as detail. The service manual for the late John Deere 110 square frames gives a much better breakdown and procedures for the case teardown if somebody is working on one of these, as long as you recognize the different placement of the shafts.

Used parts (in deere green) are plentiful, and new stuff is still available through peerless.

In the early Jacobsens, there was a problem with a stamped metal shift fork guide that fatigues and breaks into two pieces and jambs the transmission - it goes into gear, but jumps out and the guide catches in the gears - usually not a catastrophic failure, but you have to tear the trans down to replace the $5.00 part - That's where I am with mine..... Maybe was a bad run of parts? as I am not aware of this being an issue in the older Deeres - but there was a difference of 5-10 years in age, so maybe they fixed the defective design by the time the trans was going into the 110...

The model in my pictures is a 68 Jacobsen Chief 1000 that I am working on. I bought the tractor off CL, originally for just the engine (for another project) - Engine runs, it was nearby and price was right. But when I went to see it, the tractor was too nice (potentially) to scrap out. And getting to talk to the seller, it was their father's tractor for many years, so it had a history. The Chiefs are stout little machines, but parts and accessories are kind of sparse.

Edited by Tennblue59, January 13, 2015 - 09:06 AM.

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#12 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted January 13, 2015 - 09:30 AM

Thanks! That's why I couldn't match it up. Nice info to know. Now I can do some snooping around!



#13 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted January 13, 2015 - 09:50 AM

Could you guys post the #'s for these tranny's? I found something here that may help.



#14 Tennblue59 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 13, 2015 - 08:03 PM

Ok, after about 15 minutes and an extra set of hands, I got my reducer off. Heres the pictures;

Here's the clip that holds the gear and reducer on the input shaft. I ended up using 2 picks to pry the ends out and had a helper use a dental pick to hook the exposed spring to pull it out of the groove.
20150113_124603.jpg

Here's the splined shaft after the reducer comes off, and a picture of the back half of the reducer. Looks to me like I need to replace the oil seal coming out of the transmission;
20150113_124653.jpg 20150113_124701.jpg

And pulling the brake drum off the other side. With the puller, it came right off.
20150113_130119.jpg

Not applicable to the original poster, but here are a few pictures of opening up the transmission. Here's a tip somebody showed me a while back - use one of the wheels (or just a wheel hub) as a stand to hold the transaxle in position to work on it.
20150113_130905.jpg 20150113_133812.jpg

Once the 1/2 cover comes off, you can get to all the gear sets and work on everything, except pulling the differential - that requires pulling the second axle.
20150113_152457.jpg

As you can see, I have a couple of missing teeth/rough gears - looks like I'll be getting a gear or two as well as the broken guide. But on the whole, the transmission looks ok - And I won't have to pull it all apart to replace the gears.
20150113_152629.jpg 20150113_152834.jpg

Kenny, the model number for the transmission is 2308. I was looking at it and it does have the bosses cast in the housing for shafts coming out the other sides- so it could be set up deere style as well. Looks like you knock out which ever press out plugs you need for your application.

Hope y'all enjoy the pictures. Maybe it helps understand whats going on.
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#15 Tennblue59 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 13, 2015 - 08:08 PM

Nice find Kenny on that web site! I was going to add a link to it - that is the site I got the part numbers from and will probably order my parts from there as well!

They do list my transmission - the transmission has a little tag on it with the model and serial number
20150113_133821.jpg
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