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Advice On Removing Exhaust Nuts From 2414


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#1 1mathom1 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 26, 2014 - 09:31 AM

Years before my Dad bought our 2414.....which we have had now for a good 17 years.....the previous owners cut the exhaust pipe off and cobbled together some pieces including an old motorcycle expansion chamber.    Well, that mess finally gave up the ghost and most of it rusted off except for the flange and about 8 inches of pipe.   Mowing now mandates ear plugs.    I have a replacement factory set up ready to go on but am having a dickens of time getting the nuts off of the studs to remove the old pipe.    No amount of penetrating oil has helped and of course it is very difficult to get a wrench on in the first place.

 

Any suggestions on how to remove the nuts and not damage the studs?



#2 EricFromPa OFFLINE  

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Posted August 26, 2014 - 09:48 AM

Ouch that's a big one when it comes to Used equipment.

 

I would take the Carb off so you have a bit more room and Either Split the nuts or cut the nuts off with a Dremel and run a good Die down on the studs to clean the threads up.

 

Heat may break them loose but if it doesn't it will make the Studs soft and they Will twist off.

 

Drilling and Tapping Cast Iron is not fun.Gives me a headache just thinking about it.I snapped off a Tap in a Kohler block Once.Cast Iron is not fun to Tap threads in.


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#3 EconChuck OFFLINE  

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Posted August 26, 2014 - 10:07 AM

Hi,

The other option is once you get the flange/nuts/studs out of the way the port should be tapped for I think 1 1/4 female pipe threads.

So once you get all the other stuff out of the way, you can chase the threads with a pipe tap and thread in a pipe nipple and go from there.

Good luck.

Chuck



#4 HDWildBill OFFLINE  

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Posted August 26, 2014 - 10:28 AM

Have you tried a 50/50 solution of Acetone and ATF?  I just used it on a belt tensioner on a deck that was rusted on.


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#5 Dave Central NY OFFLINE  

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Posted August 26, 2014 - 01:29 PM

My experience with this problem is,  No amount of penetrating oil is going to help. If you can get a 6 Pt socket on the nuts maybe you can twist the studs off  then the exhaust pipe and flange will come off..  Then your choices are two, clean up the 1 inch pipe threads that are in there with a pipe tap. Then with the proper pipe fittings you can put an under slung exhaust system on it using a muffler made for a Massey Ferguson farm tractor. It has one more bend than a muffler for a Ford 8n  farm tractor so it's easier to install. 2nd choice after you have removed the present exhaust flange cut the old studs real close to the block then grind them flush with the block. Center punch the studs dead center. and drill them out using a left hand drill bit. Then  clean up the threads in the bolt holes with the right size tap.  GOOD LUCK ,       Dave


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#6 Dave Central NY OFFLINE  

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Posted August 26, 2014 - 07:59 PM

It does work better with the carb removed

104_0407.JPG

104_0408.JPG

The pipe tap is  one inch National Pipe Thread  The bolt holes are 5/16 National Coarse.


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#7 1mathom1 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 27, 2014 - 09:37 AM

Thanks for all the input.  Figured someone had been down this road before.

 

I believe I will try to use my Dremel to cut into them and see if I can free them up first.   If that doesn't work I will likely try to drill the studs out, tap and replace.

 

I case I go the route of using the bigger pipe fittings and fabbing an underslung exhaust....do you have any pictures of that sort of set up?   Sounds interesting.

 

 

Next question.   How easy is it to rebuild the front axle?  Mine is pretty loose...both the center pivot and the ends have a good bit of slop in them.



#8 Dave Central NY OFFLINE  

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Posted August 27, 2014 - 06:42 PM

I made a post a while ago on  SLEEVE BEARINGS FOR FRONT AXLE.  with pictures. It's down on page 2 or 3.    One thing I learned on one of the tractors I did was the large pivot bolt in the center of the axle is often loose where it is screwed into the frame. You will have to get it tight in the tractor to eliminate the slop. I've been able to take out the roll pin at the back and just tighten it up by locking two nuts together on the front of the pin and turning it in to tighten it. Then put a new roll pin in the rear.

   No pictures of the underslung exhaust,  but I will get some when I take the sickle bar mower off. 


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#9 1mathom1 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 28, 2014 - 10:41 AM

Thanks for pointing me to your other post on the front end rebuild.  Great info there.  

 

Hope to get to the exhaust issue this weekend but last night, the carb float started sticking.    Maybe I'll deal with the nuts while I have the carb off cleaning it up.



#10 1mathom1 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 03, 2014 - 08:53 AM

I was able to use the Dremel cut off wheel to slice into the nut.   I cut diagonally across one flat of the nut to get it as deep as I could without cutting into the flange.  I wanted to save the old flange and remaining exhaust pipe just in case.    I made sure to stop cutting before I got into the threads of the stud.   Then took a cold chisel and give it a couple of whacks.  Split the nut and it came right off.   Cleaned up the mounting surface, made my own gasket out of Mr. Gasket exhaust gasket material, cleaned up the threads with a die, mounted the new pipe and muffler with new nuts and washers.....done.     I SHOULD have take pics of the process but I didn't think about it till I was through.

 

Bought a carb kit from Napa that was just the float needle and seat and gaskets.  Deep cleaned the carb and set the float, reset the idle mixture....done.   Runs like a top and I can actually hear.

 

After mowing season, I will need to rebuild it.   Burns a fair amount of oil and the deck bearings are starting to get noisy.

Want to do a restore so maybe will do it all at once.  

Have some straight rust free fenders and a better tunnel than is on it but need to find a local body man than can clean up the front lip of the hood....pretty clear to see that a previous owner did not believe in using the hood catch when he opened up the hood......just let it flop down on the bumper.


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#11 EconChuck OFFLINE  

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Posted September 03, 2014 - 08:59 AM

Congrats!

#12 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted September 04, 2014 - 07:17 PM

Glad to hear you got the nuts off and fixed the exhaust and carb., Hope you post some photos of it and all the attachments that you got in the deal.






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