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Picked Up A Bolens H16


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#31 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted April 24, 2015 - 09:13 AM

To me that tag does read as a model number 1556.  I blew it up and it sure looks like 1556 to me too.  OldBuzzard and I must get our glasses from the same place.

If you two guys want to be rivet counters you might want to invest in some good magnifiers  :poke:  I assure you it is a 1656...kinda of hard to make out the difference in the first 6 but it is definitely a 6. Here is a close up of the hood that I also posted earlier...maybe this pic will help.

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#32 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted May 06, 2015 - 09:37 AM

After having some problems with the tranny jerking & squealing I found a couple of things not right. My hydro control valve for the lift was leaking & my drive tension spring had some wear on one end of the spring. I rebuilt the valve...no leaks now. I took the spring off & drilled a small hole farther away from the pulley in the side of the dash box at the bottom. This hole is where I put a new cotter pin to hold the spring. Maybe later I'll replace the spring because I'm sure it's a little weak. I would still like to maybe in the fall rebuild this tranny. I still have slight jerking in between slow & high throttle but nothing like I had before. When I do this rebuild I'm going to do some deep research on what fluid these run best on. I know the manual says type A, most have replaced with the Dextrons, some use F & I have read because of the thicker viscosity some use 30 W motor oil. This is my first Eaton experience. My others all have Sunstrand...I think these would run on vegetable oil  :D

 

We will finally be moving Praise God! its been a long time doing...more on that later in another thread. Here are a few pics of this ole girl after cutting almost an acre yesterday...very pleased considering the wear on some of the deck parts. I will be repairing them once we move.

 

Farm pic 1.jpg Farm pic 2.jpg Farm pic 3.jpg Farm pic 4.jpg

 


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#33 Oregon_Bolens OFFLINE  

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Posted May 06, 2015 - 10:39 AM

That's great! Such a good feeling to bring something back and see results from its work! Nice job!
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#34 TAHOE ONLINE  

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Posted May 06, 2015 - 11:24 AM

Moving uh? Staying in that area or moving away?
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#35 OldBuzzard ONLINE  

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Posted May 06, 2015 - 03:30 PM

Sorry, but it still looks like 1556 to me.

 

I zoomed in on the pic of the data tag, and you can see that the first 5 is not curved at the top.  It's horizontal.  The 6 at the end has a curve with a dot of a dot at the end of the curve.

 

Now if you can supply a better pic, I'll concede that it says 1656.

 

Decals don't mean a whole lot as you can put any decal you want on a tractor.  It's obviously been repainted a time or two, and it would be easy for someone to apply the wrong decals.


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#36 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted May 06, 2015 - 03:58 PM

After fully inspecting this tractor I'm willing to bet money this is a 1656 Tractor (H16)

 

ID Decals,Dash panel, Engine model,Control cables all point to H16


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#37 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted May 06, 2015 - 04:38 PM

Sorry, but it still looks like 1556 to me.

I zoomed in on the pic of the data tag, and you can see that the first 5 is not curved at the top. It's horizontal. The 6 at the end has a curve with a dot of a dot at the end of the curve.

Now if you can supply a better pic, I'll concede that it says 1656.

Decals don't mean a whole lot as you can put any decal you want on a tractor. It's obviously been repainted a time or two, and it would be easy for someone to apply the wrong decals.


Sorry OB no more pics. In all due respect I don't need to prove anything my friend it's just a tractor. If you want it to be a 1556 please do so. I'm very pleased with this tractor it performed awesome as I expected a 1656 would. With a few tweeks on the deck & a nice paint job it's going to be a bad to the bone machine.

#38 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted May 08, 2015 - 12:53 PM

Moving uh? Staying in that area or moving away?

Falmouth, Ky Marty here is the link http://gardentractor...ky/#entry571887



#39 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted April 05, 2016 - 09:02 PM

Ok it's been almost a year now since I got my H16. She has definetly earned her keep for the last year of keeping our one acre yard mowed. If you'll look back a few pages you'll see I done some body work & primed. Now today after cutting the grass twice this year I thought it was time to get some finish paint on. Since this will be a worker I'm not going to tear everything down so I'll just separate some parts to get a good coat of paint on. Today I took the hood & grille assembly along with the seat & fender pan off to pressure wash. I'm going with the simple Rustoleum white & black. A few cosmetic items like head & tail lights, maybe decals, & clean up those hideous tires the PO got white over spray on.

 

Stripped down ready for a bath

20.jpg


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#40 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted April 10, 2016 - 06:13 PM

I started taking off some parts yesterday. I'll need to try & control myself on this it's not going to be a show piece but a worker. My problem is I can't half way do anything. While taking some parts off I seen a few areas that didn't get cleaned very well so I might do another PW before I paint. Even though these areas won't be seen they need cleaned before painting. The wiring is somewhat a mess especially the safety switches being eliminated. I'll check the switches if good I'll re wire them factory. This had tail lights at one time because it's wired for them with the pig tail hanging out by the rear fender area.

pic20.jpg pic22.jpg pic21.jpg

 

I have some bushings that are worn, a split drive belt, & gear box on the deck is leaking oil, all in all pretty good shape. While taking the dash off I chose to drill out the factory choke lever to prevent taking off the plastic knob. This way I can just fish the lever out of the dash to remove. I know the plastic knob would probably break if I tried to remove it from the lever.

pic24.jpg pic23.jpg

 

Since this is my only GT with a deck that's a runner it looks like I'll be cutting my grass once or twice with the push mower. Oh the joy of doing things right sometimes has a price to pay.


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#41 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted April 10, 2016 - 06:49 PM

Looks like you got it stripped down pretty good, I know the feeling I always end up replacing everything once I get into one of these ! :D

Knobs and cables are still available new so dont worry if you bust something


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#42 LPBolens OFFLINE  

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Posted April 10, 2016 - 09:48 PM

For future reference, I have has good luck popping the round red knobs off using a piece of wood under a crescent wrench opened just enough to fit over the lever arm. One quick jerk and they usually come right off. It works particularly well on the metal dash models; I am not sure I would do that on the plastic dashes because they seem very fragile. The trick is finding the knob after it comes flying off! Then I can reinstall using hot glue. If the knob won't go on far enough because the glue set up too fast, heat the lever with a soldering iron and push the knob on further.
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#43 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted April 11, 2016 - 05:41 PM

I actually thought my dash was plastic until I started taking it off. It's cast metal.
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#44 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted April 27, 2016 - 10:53 AM

Pretty much been cleaning, stripping paint, & painting with some minor repairs. The dash was challenging mainly because I don't have my large compressor rigged up yet so I stripped the dash with paint stripper, primed & painted.

pic28.jpg pic29.jpg pic32.jpg pic33.jpg pic31.jpg

 

I replaced the very worn plastic & bronze sleeves. BIG mistake here don't replace the bronze bushings until you install the shaft  :wallbanging:  I had to remove them. I used a 1/2" copper coupling to drive the old ones out & installing the news twice. 

pic34.jpg

 

My dash box is cracked at the top where one of the mounting studs are so I'll have to weld that. I also had to strip the decal from this too.

pic30.jpg

 

I never spent much time on the wheels because like I mentioned this is my only grass cutter right now so I need to get it back up & working. I did wire brush them...they had an off white & a coat of red. The center has a few places where I couldn't get the original paint off & it has a few blemishes but for now it's OK, maybe later I'll SB. My tires were a mess. They looked like I had white walls because of the PO's over spray. I got most of it off but still left a faint grayish film. I might use some tire black paint later.

pic36.jpg

 

Some parts painted.

pic35.jpg

 

My gear box on my deck has a few problems. I lost the cotter pin last year & it broke one tooth out of each bevel gear. I took it apart turned one gear so the two missing teeth would not meet. This has worked well but I know it's worn & may explode at anytime. The gear casing has had a repair & I patched a small hole with JB weld last year. A few days ago I bought a used gear box, the cast iron bracket & the drive shaft. I will be taking that aaprt soon & let you know what I have. Thanks for viewing.


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#45 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted April 30, 2016 - 02:27 PM

Slowly getting there. I managed to rattle can spray the hood & fender pan...not my favorite choice but for now it will do. I noticed now the Rustoleum spray cans don't have the fan type spray nozzle instead the older style round pattern.  :(  I think I'll wait a few days & give it another coat or two then knock it down a little wet sanding then a clear coat so it'll clean up better later on.

pic37.jpg

 

The frame is close to being done with the exception of the dash box & a few bolt heads.

pic38.jpg pic39.jpg

 

My gearbox I recently purchased will need some repairs & the shaft needs cleaned up. The pulley on mine is 3" & the pulley on the one I bought is 4". Can someone tell me if this will be a big difference....maybe too fast ???

gearbox2.jpg gearbox1.jpg

 

The CV joints are larger also but the same in length. I think I'll be OK with this.

gearbox5.jpg gearbox3.jpg gearbox4.jpg

 

If I find that the replacement gearbox will take too long to repair I may just clean the original one up & use it for awhile...push mowing almost two acres is not fun. 


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