Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

Picked Up A Bolens H16


  • Please log in to reply
53 replies to this topic

#16 Sawdust OFFLINE  

Sawdust
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 36549
  • 4,523 Thanks
  • 2,831 posts
  • Location: Butler, Kentucky

Posted August 27, 2014 - 05:38 PM

Maybe it's the picture, or my old eyes, but the model number on that data tag sure looks like 1556 to me.

 

Is it possible that it's a 1556 with an HH160 from and H16 (1656) transplanted into it?

 

In any event, other than the 'non-Bolens" paint job, it's a danged nice looking tractor.

OB it does look like a five but i had to get my magnifier out to make sure & it is with no doubt a 1656. They also painted over  the decals on the hood  :(  I'll post that pic later. Thanks



#17 Sawdust OFFLINE  

Sawdust
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 36549
  • 4,523 Thanks
  • 2,831 posts
  • Location: Butler, Kentucky

Posted August 27, 2014 - 05:45 PM

I went out to start the ole girl up not expecting a whole lot but VAROOOOM she started right up. Oldbuzzard brought up an arguable point looking at my pictures. I had to get my magnifier out on this one & it is a 1656 not a 1556. They also painted over the hood decals. I'm also showing a pic of a chrome lift bar, I don't believe this is factory. I called the PO today to see if his PO had the side frame covers & no luck there. If anyone has a pair of these let me know. Thanks

 

Why would someone do this

pic18.jpg

 

Chrome lift bar

pic17.jpg



#18 Sawdust OFFLINE  

Sawdust
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 36549
  • 4,523 Thanks
  • 2,831 posts
  • Location: Butler, Kentucky

Posted August 27, 2014 - 06:06 PM

Congrats Jim, looks like you got a great score.

If ya have any issues with that Techy, elt me know. I have two and have about replaced or fixed about every bug that they get. Once you learn them, they are not a bad motor to work on and pull all day long.

 

Did Glen still have the Bolens H11 out there? He kept tempting me with that one.

I saw he still has the twin Sears, dropped price 200, good thing they aren't suburbans, I would be picking them up.

When I get a chance I'm going to adjust the valves, change the oil, spark plug, air filter, oil filter, tinker with the carb a little & maybe replace the fuel pump. From my own experience with the Tech's they don't always idle as well as most other's. I went out today & it started right up like it's been running a long time.  I didn't see the other Bolens. I'm trying to talk Glen into joining here. Those two Sears sisters look mighty fine sitting there but right now I would have to start stacking these things. I have two almost complete GT's primed & hanging in my garage & basement. I'm trying to make myself some work for cold weather & getting the painting done now. Thanks Marty If I need help I'll give you a call. 


  • TAHOE and AA Hayes have said thanks

#19 TAHOE OFFLINE  

TAHOE
  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 24522
  • 6,503 Thanks
  • 4,955 posts
  • Location: "Hamiltucky" Ohio

Posted August 28, 2014 - 09:00 AM

My OH160 runs pretty rough at idle, always hunting and an occasionally miss. I think carb needs new bushings on the butterfly and choke shafts. Runs good at WOT though so leaving it for now....only tractor I have running right now so can't mess with it.


  • Sawdust said thank you

#20 Husky OFFLINE  

Husky

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 63
  • 923 Thanks
  • 893 posts

Posted August 28, 2014 - 11:19 AM

That chrome lift bar looks rather unique. Someone must have made that as a replacement part.


  • Sawdust said thank you

#21 Sawdust OFFLINE  

Sawdust
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 36549
  • 4,523 Thanks
  • 2,831 posts
  • Location: Butler, Kentucky

Posted August 28, 2014 - 04:00 PM

It's hard to see in the manual what that area looks like. I'm thinking this is why the deck cones up higher in the front than the rear. When I get time I'll crawl under thete to see if I can figure it out.

#22 Sawdust OFFLINE  

Sawdust
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 36549
  • 4,523 Thanks
  • 2,831 posts
  • Location: Butler, Kentucky

Posted February 23, 2015 - 11:27 PM

I got this tractor back in August & at least two times a week I have looked for a pair of side tube panels. I would find one & not the other or they were in very bad shape. I saw these this morning while sitting in the parking lot waiting for my wife. I jumped on them right away. From my past searches looking at junk or only one panel I think I got a good deal on these.

 

http://www.ebay.com/...=STRK:MEBIDX:IT


  • Bolens800uk said thank you

#23 Sawdust OFFLINE  

Sawdust
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 36549
  • 4,523 Thanks
  • 2,831 posts
  • Location: Butler, Kentucky

Posted March 23, 2015 - 06:30 PM

I got the ole girl out over the weekend to get some sun. I put the tube frame covers on & it looks better. I remember last year my starter would turn over good but occasionally it would scream please grease me. I started it up this year for the first time & it was worse. I know these things are pretty much paper weights if they go bad so I took it apart. Sure enough the brass bearing in the end cap was dry & the other end of the shaft was too. The brushes looked good except for a lot of dirt & graphite dust everywhere. I cleaned all the dirt out, polished up the commutator, cleaned the brushes, & cleaned the posi terminal bolt. I greased the end cap bushing, the other end of the shaft, & the drive gear. I hooked it up & it spun a lot better with no screaming....whew!

 

Starter2.jpg Starter1.jpg

 

Up next I want to educate myself on this deck before I unload with some questions. I believe this was a grass cutter for sure but the deck even though it has a lot of new parts it's sloppy. I have a chrome bracket I know doesn't belong there, it lifts higher in the front than the back, I have a linkage that looks like it's terribly homemade & a few other things that don't look right. Thanks for looking!



#24 Sawdust OFFLINE  

Sawdust
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 36549
  • 4,523 Thanks
  • 2,831 posts
  • Location: Butler, Kentucky

Posted March 31, 2015 - 12:02 PM

Well for the last week or so off & on I have been trying to find out what mower deck I have. Thanks to the manuals I have narrowed it down to what I believe is the 18423. The deck has the option of the gear or hydro model GT. Since I have the hydro I think some hack put the wrong lift link on it & the bright shiny chrome thing which I know doesn't belong regardless. With the help of a pic on another GT from JohnWR a member on here I can fabricate this Lift Link #113. I also have a home made Leveling Rod #102 & #105 in which was in the wrong place & the Arm Lift #109 on the left side that it attached to was upside down. I re installed the Leveling Rod & turned the Arm Lift right side up for now. I will make a new Leveling Rod. I'm also missing one of the bushings or Eccentric #108 on the right side. I can probably find one of these at McMaster Carr. 

 

The chrome link that don't belong & JohnWR's pic of the one I need which in green.

Deck details8.jpg Deck details1.jpg

 

This is where the green link that JohnWR has goes on mine. I removed the chrome thing.

Deck17.jpg

 

The upside down Lift Link & home made Leveling Rod.

Deck details5.jpg Deck19.jpg

 

This is the part #112 that is suppose to be used on the gear drive GT.

Deck18.jpg

 

These are the Lift Arms showing one has the Eccentric & the other doesn't

Deck details3.jpg Deck details4.jpg

 

I have a question on the Leveling Rod which is just a turnbuckle with threaded rods. The Parts Manual only shows one on the left side & also lists as one needed. Is there suppose to be one on the right side as well. There are holes that match the left side as well.

The left side with the rod

Deck19.jpg

 

The right side without

Deck21.jpg


  • WrenchinOnIt said thank you

#25 Sawdust OFFLINE  

Sawdust
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 36549
  • 4,523 Thanks
  • 2,831 posts
  • Location: Butler, Kentucky

Posted March 31, 2015 - 09:17 PM

I found a piece of scrap flat stock & made a mock up of what I needed. It works great, the deck comes up evenly & goes back down evenly. I noticed the left side is more level than the right side that doesn't have that Leveling Rod I mentioned. I'm going to make a pair of these & install one on each side regardless if the manual mentions just one. I think it will work more evenly then...won't hurt to try it. I also made another Eccentric (bushing) out of a piece of 1/4" black iron nipple just to see how it worked. It's a little smaller in diameter then the factory one but ok for right now.

 

Deck23.jpg

 

 



#26 Sawdust OFFLINE  

Sawdust
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 36549
  • 4,523 Thanks
  • 2,831 posts
  • Location: Butler, Kentucky

Posted April 02, 2015 - 07:32 PM

Well I thought all I would do since this is a good runner but looks bad is clean up, make some minor repairs, paint & enjoy...not. I couldn't stand the flat black so I took the fender pan off & started what I thought would be an easy repair of a few dents, prime & paint. I started sanding & found a lot of rust not too much pitting but looks like the PO took the white off but didn't prep the old rust. Having that do it right or don't do it all mind set I got the sand blaster out & got started. A lot more work but I had to do it right. I know if I didn't do this the rust would start creeping through that new white paint next year or not long after.

 

Here is the rust I found under the black paint

Fender pan11.jpg

 

The center section looks like something tried to bite it

Fender pan1.jpg Fender pan4.jpg

 

I had to improvise on not having any body workers dolly tools so I used a hammer & some pieces of iron pipe nipples.

Fender pan6.jpg Fender pan7.jpg Fender pan8.jpg

 

I flattened a few fender dents then sanded to show up the high & low spots. I will Bondo these tomorrow

Fender pan10.jpg

 

Sand blasted & primed with Rustoleum's Self Etching Primer

Fender pan12.jpg Fender pan13.jpg

 

Once I get this done I'll do the hood & grill the same way hopefully it won't be as bad. I'm not going to finish coat until I clean the tractor up & do some tweeking. I know this tractor originally had an off white color almost a cream but I'm leaning more to a brighter white & the frame semi gloss or satin black. Thanks for looking!

 

 


  • Bolens 1000, WrenchinOnIt, Rock farmer and 2 others have said thanks

#27 Sawdust OFFLINE  

Sawdust
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 36549
  • 4,523 Thanks
  • 2,831 posts
  • Location: Butler, Kentucky

Posted April 18, 2015 - 09:56 PM

I was hoping the hood & grill would be easier but not. I had hardly any rust except for the area at the bottom of the grill where I guess water settles. What I had was three coats of paint...the original factory, another coat of white & then the flat black. The second coat of white had thick runs so bad I had to stop the SB & scrape with a putty knife then hit it again with the SB.

 

I got it down to bare metal & primed with the self etching primer. I went back & did some spot putty in a few places. I was going to wait & finish paint later but I think I'll go ahead & paint it while I have everything off. Before I put everything back on I'm going to pressure wash & do some repair & maintenance. I don't like to paint things without taking it apart but I'll probably give the frame a good coat of black. This will not be a trailer queen but a worker so as long as it looks good & functional I'll be happy.

 

Hood 1.jpg Hood 2.jpg

 

I had to spot putty the fender pan as well. This area under the seat must have had water settled in there because of a few rust pits.

Fender pan14.jpg


  • Bolens 1000, WrenchinOnIt and Gabriel have said thanks

#28 chieffan ONLINE  

chieffan
  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 62695
  • 6,167 Thanks
  • 4,510 posts
  • Location: SW Iowa

Posted April 21, 2015 - 08:54 PM

Maybe it's the picture, or my old eyes, but the model number on that data tag sure looks like 1556 to me.

 

Is it possible that it's a 1556 with an HH160 from and H16 (1656) transplanted into it?

 

In any event, other than the 'non-Bolens" paint job, it's a danged nice looking tractor.

To me that tag does read as a model number 1556.  I blew it up and it sure looks like 1556 to me too.  OldBuzzard and I must get our glasses from the same place.


Edited by chieffan, April 21, 2015 - 09:04 PM.

  • Sawdust said thank you

#29 Rainier OFFLINE  

Rainier
  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 53758
  • 376 Thanks
  • 392 posts
  • Location: Kingston wa.

Posted April 22, 2015 - 06:38 PM

I see on the seat pan in the back looks to be cut out, at least that's what I thought about my H 14. Now I see yours is the same way. And as for the lights on the back , Mine has reflectors. I wonder if they are supposed to be lights?
  • Sawdust said thank you

#30 Sawdust OFFLINE  

Sawdust
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 36549
  • 4,523 Thanks
  • 2,831 posts
  • Location: Butler, Kentucky

Posted April 24, 2015 - 09:08 AM

I see on the seat pan in the back looks to be cut out, at least that's what I thought about my H 14. Now I see yours is the same way. And as for the lights on the back , Mine has reflectors. I wonder if they are supposed to be lights?

Mine had lights at one time because the factory yellow wire was tied up back near the rear fender pan. I will be putting lights on it but the OEM lights are pricey around $30.+ for a pair. If I was restoring it I would do this but will wait until I can find something  close to original. Some also had reflectors.


  • Rainier said thank you




Top