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Bolens Power Ho


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#46 Lauber1 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 13, 2014 - 08:17 PM

Is the rope used to just lift the packer wheel and furrow opener out of the ground, leaving the drive wheel down or does it lift the whole works up?

the Danville seeders is ridged mount and rides on only one wheel. When get to the end of the row you have to lift the handles up to turn and raise the unit off the ground. you have to pull the rope to get the marker up, hang it off the handles or set it down to the other side.  The Planet seeder uses the two wheels to float across the ground and pivots on the bars that pull it along, thus the need for the lifting rope.


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#47 trowel OFFLINE  

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Posted October 13, 2014 - 08:18 PM

The planter used on the power would have either been a planet jr number 25 or a Danville seeder the planet jr 300a was used in the four row seeder setup for the bolens ridemaster tractors

Look at the photo Brian posted, the frame, the lid, seed disk plate and the packer wheel, no 300A, below is the no 25.

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Edited by trowel, October 13, 2014 - 08:20 PM.

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#48 Lauber1 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 13, 2014 - 08:22 PM

The planter used on the power would have either been a planet jr number 25 or a Danville seeder the planet jr 300a was used in the four row seeder setup for the bolens ridemaster tractors

The #25 is a trip seeder and the picture doesn't show a trip arm.  Both the #4 and #25 are similar and drop plant. My 1937 catalog lists  the #25 as one of two commercial units. the other one is the 300A and the 300.


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#49 Tbrooks OFFLINE  

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Posted October 13, 2014 - 08:30 PM

Look at the photo Brian posted, the frame, the lid, seed disk plate and the packer wheel, no 300A, below is the no 25.

This is completely different than what I have. So I can definitely can rule out the 25, the 300a looks more like the ones I have.

#50 trowel OFFLINE  

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Posted October 13, 2014 - 08:49 PM

This is completely different than what I have. So I can definitely can rule out the 25, the 300a looks more like the ones I have.

The 300 series is unmistakable when compared with all the other PJ seeder drills.

 

When PJ introduced the 300 series it was specifically for tractors, GTs and on a tool bar for farm tractors, they also offered it as a push type with wood handles, the cast iron flex frame was dropped, no longer needed and replaced with the steel bar type, the lid was only held in by a spring and always lost as yours are, and they were the first seed plate type and using aluminum instead of cast iron, the packer wheel was changed and the drive shaft clutch was no longer needed, in other words a completely different type when compared with the pre-1900's seeder drills.

 

Ironicly the 300A was modified and changed again in the 70's into what is now sold by Cole as the Multi-Flex which is a steel bar frame improved copy of the old cast iron No 2, 3, and 4 with the larger capacity plastic hopper, many parts between the older first multi-flex interchange with the 300A and 300B.


Edited by trowel, October 13, 2014 - 08:57 PM.

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#51 Tbrooks OFFLINE  

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Posted October 13, 2014 - 09:11 PM

The 300 series is unmistakable when compared with all the other PJ seeder drills.
 
When PJ introduced the 300 series it was specifically for tractors, GTs and on a tool bar for farm tractors, they also offered it as a push type with wood handles, the cast iron flex frame was dropped, no longer needed and replaced with the steel bar type, the lid was only held in by a spring and always lost as yours are, and they were the first seed plate type and using aluminum instead of cast iron, the packer wheel was changed and the drive shaft clutch was no longer needed, in other words a completely different type when compared with the pre-1900's seeder drills.
 
Ironicly the 300A was modified and changed again in the 70's into what is now sold by Cole as the Multi-Flex which is a steel bar frame improved copy of the old cast iron No 2, 3, and 4 with the larger capacity plastic hopper, many parts between the older first multi-flex interchange with the 300A and 300B.

That is exactly the info I needed, thanks! I have six more months to get it working if I want to use it next spring. Should be doable.

#52 trowel OFFLINE  

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Posted October 13, 2014 - 09:13 PM

Some of my seeder drills.

 

http://www.google.co...413338817883563

 

http://www.google.co...413339111422900



#53 Tbrooks OFFLINE  

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Posted October 14, 2014 - 05:22 PM

There is a nice original power ho engine and gas tank on ebay, but the $299.00 price tag is way to salty for me. At least there is a good clear pic of the gas tank decal.

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#54 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted October 14, 2014 - 05:41 PM

There is a nice original power ho engine and gas tank on ebay, but the $299.00 price tag is way to salty for me. At least there is a good clear pic of the gas tank decal.

 

Yes, that guys been huffing too many fumes on that hacked on muffler.


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#55 trowel OFFLINE  

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Posted October 14, 2014 - 06:08 PM

Regrettably the PJ 300A seeder drill is gone, pains me to type this as i was looking forwards to helping you start the rebuild.

 

I shall watch for another.


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#56 Tbrooks OFFLINE  

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Posted October 14, 2014 - 06:31 PM

Regrettably the PJ 300A seeder drill is gone, pains me to type this as i was looking forwards to helping you start the rebuild.
 
I shall watch for another.

don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things. Thanks for checking on that for me. The more I think about it, my dad had a parts push type planet jr hanging on a beam in his barn. I will have to revisit that one to see what model it is.
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#57 Tbrooks OFFLINE  

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Posted October 23, 2014 - 08:45 PM

Just pulled the head off of the power ho, doesn't look good. Piston rusted fast, top of cylinder is pitted, intake valve is toast.image.jpg
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#58 Tbrooks OFFLINE  

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Posted October 29, 2014 - 06:35 PM

Got the piston moving tonight, thanks to the trusty acetone and transmittion fluid. Valves also free. Still not sure if it will be worth fixing this one or buy a differant motor. Briggs 8's seem to be fairly easy to come by.

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#59 trowel OFFLINE  

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Posted October 29, 2014 - 06:40 PM

Got the piston moving tonight, thanks to the trusty acetone and transmittion fluid. Valves also free. Still not sure if it will be worth fixing this one or buy a differant motor. Briggs 8's seem to be fairly easy to come by.

Good to hear and see, the model 8 and 9 are a little harder to find then the 5 and 6, if you find one in good shape,...save it, please.


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#60 Tbrooks OFFLINE  

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Posted October 29, 2014 - 07:56 PM

Good to hear and see, the model 8 and 9 are a little harder to find then the 5 and 6, if you find one in good shape,...save it, please.

Some of my coworkers think I am off my rocker working on this motor. They don't think it is possible to get it running again. That sounds like a challenge to me, and I am not one to back down from a challenge. I will keep plugging away at this one unless something better finds its way to the shop.
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